Gradenko

JXL, the $9k R33 clearly has an accident history and visible blemishes, which you can see if you sign up and click the car for extra info. As 13_devil said, the stock page shows cars they *can* import and comply, not cars that are in the country. Theres no point complaining about used cars getting cheaper. Its a fact of life

Imports101 do the compliancing when the car arrives. Its a one stop service. They have a lot of experience in that area, being around since before RAWS came in and are now Quality Assured. Danny also runs a business that modify's cars, thats how I first met him.

Absolutely Danny Fisher at Imports101.

All answered here: http://host7.com.au/web/ors/news_view.asp?newsID=123 -- What if it’s not my vehicle? The owner of the vehicle will be notified by Police. The driver is responsible for the towage, storage and other relevant costs incurred in impounding the vehicle if found convicted of the offence. If the car has not been collected by the time the impoundment period expires (48 hours), the owner is responsible for post-impoundment fees. -- -- Can it get worse than 48 hours impoundment? Yes. If you are convicted of a second impounding offence within three years of the first, the court may impound the vehicle for up to 3 months. ... If you’ve been convicted of two or more impounding offences within the last five years, a court may order that the vehicle is confiscated. A confiscated vehicle becomes the property of the state. You may also have your driver’s license cancelled. This does not apply if the vehicle has been stolen or hired. If the court is satisfied that the vehicle was lent at the time of the offence, the court instead of confiscating the vehicle, may order it impounded for up to six months. -- -- Do I get a warning that the vehicle may be confiscated or impounded for longer, depending on the court’s decision? Yes. 14 days prior to the court hearing, the Police Commissioner is required to provide written notice of the police intention to seek impoundment or confiscation of the vehicle. This notice goes to: The driver of the vehicle The vehicle’s license holder The Director General (DPI) Any other person whom the Commissioner is aware of who has or may have interest in the vehicle The public generally, in a newspaper having state-wide circulation -- Basically. they don't give a f&ck who owns the vehicle. Best case for the 3rd offense is your friend lent you the car to you and they impound it for 6mths. If it's in your parents name, it gets confiscated unless you can prove they lent it to you. ie, it's the family car and not your own runabout. I can see this one getting contested at the courts a lot. The domain michellerobertsisacrackwhore.org is being registered as I speak.

Is there a motorists advocate party we can vote for? Or a lobby group to join? I've been following Ms Roberts antics for a while and am always impressed by her sheer stupidty.

I can help you out. Pm sent.

I think you may have just been a little mixed up Have a read of this: http://www.autospeed.com.au/cms/A_0122/article.html In particular paragraph 7: In a Helmholtz Resonance system (one with runners connected to a common plenum), US-based engineering guru David Vizard suggests that a runner length of 17.8cm at 10,000 rpm makes a good starting point. (In this context, "runner length" refers to the distance from the inlet valve to the plenum chamber.) Add to this length 4.3cm for each 1000 rpm less that the system is being tuned for. Tuning for peak torque (not peak power) is the norm, and so if the engine were being tuned for 4000 rpm, a runner length of 43.6cm would be required.

Theres more detailed info on this, but basically runner lengths are tuned for a rpm range. Short runners are better for high rpm and long runners for low rpm. In fact, the best setup for low down torque for most engines would result in runners over 500mm. Not practical under a bonnet, and the reason why manufacturers like to curl runners to extend their length. Short runner setups may be good for high reving rb25s and 26s but they'd be less than optimal for a rb30 that has a 7000rpm redline. Its not stopping me from using a Greddy plenum on mine, but thats still the facts . Agreed.

Greddy plenum keeps all the factory sensors, idle control equipment and has short runners too. Not that short runners are by any means a good thing, especially on something as low revving as a RB30DET. Sub-zero plenums look ok, have long runners (a *good* thing) but use none of the factory equipment, and I do hear the odd negative story about them here and there. Main problem causer is they don't bolt on to the lower half but weld on. RIPS might be ok, just don't know enough about their plenum to have anything against them.

Guilt-Toy, I can't close the bonnet with a modified factory plenum. I think it would be very, very close with a standard plenum too.

The sale didn't go through. slyr33, you have been pm'd. pinoi_boi_r33, the flow is acceptable. Accurate flow benching of plenums is very diffuclt. We could bench it 3 times with a pair of runners open each time, but that doesn't account for reflection and pulses within the plenum to show true air distribution. I think its safe to say the flow is acceptable if done correctly. I would be able to modify and supply for not more than $210. This cost is composed of: (value of standard plenum) + (cost of TIG welding labour).

I have a modified RB25DET plenum for sale. It's had the throttle body moved from side entry position to a front facing position. Saves over a metre of intake plumbing with a fmic, reduces intake temps and improves throttle response. Picture attached of modified plenum installed. $190 Also have a standard RB25DET plenum available. Can be modded as above if desired. Selling because new engine combo means bonnet won't close properly with these plenums.

For those of you running a RB25 turbo, what rpm do you find power peaking at?

Understood. What my question was getting at - will the stock turbo with its higher shaft speed to match the increased flow, not be at greater risk of failure than before? My understanding is that flow rate is propotional to shaft speed, and increase in engine power always corresponds to an increase in shaft speed. Another way of putting it: reducing intake resistance should mean the turbo has to work harder and increase shaft speed to maintain the same flow resistance (or boost pressure) as before. Am I way off track?

rev210, I'm interested where the turbo finds another 20hp worth of air to flow. I don't doubt that it happened, but doesn't it mean a standard turbo at 10psi is now pushed higher into its flow range? Just wondering how safe cams on a stock turbo being pushed to its limits really is . I was considering cams on with the RB30DET on a stock turbo, but decided against it till after a turbo upgrade. Except you don't have the pull the motor down to change cams. We're not running pushrods with cams in the block you know. Cams can be easily changed with the head on

Very nice. 2530's?

R32 interior bad? I think its quite good actually. Seating position is a hell of a lot better than the R33 and all the creature comforts are there. Dash is a little dated (grainy), but thats liveable.

VB and commercial grade... hmm, something wrong there.

If thats the same as the 2.41/3.22in comp wheel 550hp GT30 on Ray Halls site, then yes, it looks like it'll give you your 500hp at the engine. I would have gone with the 1.06 exh AR too if I as using a GT30. Run it as is and see if its what you want. A exhaust housing swap to 1.06 is relatively cheap if it doesn't work out. I'd be interested to see how a 1.06 exh AR 600hp GT30 compares with a 0.82 AR exh 620hp GT35. The GT35 is the turbo I'm considering using.

Depends, are they woven checkboard with puke coloured squares?

Have you seen the original factory R33 25t mats? Their hideous. SuperCheap Auto mats works for me .

Welcome to the club, rep. Love the "She'll be right" bit. I can confirm its a vital ingredient .

While the benefits to radiator cooling are debatable, the panel almost certainly hurts front mounted intercooler efficency. Forcing air through the radiator creates high pressure infront of it, between the intercooler and radiator. This would slow air flow through the intercooler fins as air would seek a lower pressure region to flow to, ie around or over the 'cooler. Its probably unnoticable in real life, but I though I'd bring it up . BTW wolverine, interested to see what your undertray looks like. I've been thinking of creating underbody areo panels (to gain ground force) and would be nice to see others.

Yes, it has a non-balance related harmonic at 7500rpm. I've been told to set the redline at 7200rpm on mine.

Looking good Micko.