Gradenko

Good to hear, Hicks. Must be nice to have all 6 cylinders back .

matlowth, not sure of what their power limit is. It'd be more than the factory rods, which are reasonable as it is. These forged ones would be rated to at teast 100hp per rod at a guess. That's really be more than I'm after, so its nice just to have as insurance.

matlowth, I am told they will fit rb30 motors using 40thou bearing machined down to suit the rb30 crank. From what my engine builder tells me, only certain Chev rods are suited for this appiication. The big end is too wide (>86mm) to fit in the RB30's bore, so small amount of meat has to be machined away from around the rod bolts. On some rods this wouldn't leave enough metal for the bolts to hook into, on others its fine. These rods are made from 4340 steel, magnafluxed, sonic tested, x-rayed, heat treated, stress relieved, have bronze bushings and were $500 for the set. Compared to $800 to shot peen and ARP rob bolt my factory rods, I thought these new rods were a slightly better deal.

I haven't got the wieght of the factory RB30 rod, but should do in the next couple of weeks. Same for factory pistons and forged 86mm Arias - will have weights in the next couple of weeks. I do have the weight of my forged RB30 rods though: 688g. Pics posted on my "RB25DET casuality" thread in the WA forum.

Did I say RB30DET build? I meant VH45DETT... Damn, still a few hours too early for April fools jokes, innit Its cause they're rods for a 350 Chev. They are 6" and also happen to fit RB30s with a small modification. I bought them new in the box from a fellow who was building a Chev engine and presumably changed his rebuild plans. Even though I'll only be using 6, they were at a price too good to pass up.

And here are the rods. The rods each weigh in at 688g +/- 1g. It'll be interesting to see how the weight of the stock rb30 rods, stock rb25 rods and these forged rods compare. You can just make out the ARP bolts in one of the pics. Those are near $200 for 12 if bought individually, so a useful saving when the rods come packed with them .

G0DF4Th3R, not much else, just a set of forged rods. Tomorrow hopefully .

Another update, the Ogura flywheel came in ex-Japan today. 4.8kg's never looked so tasty . Expecting more to come in tomorrow.

Just a quick update, picked up a fresh RB30 block today (thanks Woody!). This thing is brand new, straight from Nissan's stock shelves and never been used before.

Considering the N/A guys don't have a turbo and manifold setup to use from the get-go, going the RB30DET route would be a $8-10k adventure. Best thing would be to sell and buy a car with the right engine. Next best thing is what skyliner33wa is doing.

MetBlue_GTST, sorry to hear about your loss. My engine died a tragic and somewhat expected death. Read all about it in my thread. You have a pm re some of those parts you're selling.

I thought auto salon was pretty good today. A bit on the small side, but good to see all the crew there. Here's a pic of the very talented Michelle posing in front of dad's car. I'm assuming our usual picture "competition" is running.

That signals a left turn or stop. Yeah, I had to use hand signals when I had the dash out .

RB26 breather hoses are towards the rear of the cam covers and the covers have different curves on them. So I think you're right. Or its an RB26 with its cam covers swapped. help, fwiw, I prefer pnuematic boost control too.

XL for me.

Zanda, forged pistons and maybe rods (works out cheaper than shot peening). Nexus_SiX, like an elephant, you are. That happened damn near 3 years ago now . HIPSI, $6k minimum if you want forged pistons and other strong bits. SeriesIIGTST, it's exactly $250 dollars (price of a RB30E) more than a standard forgies rebuild. So yes, very cost effecient. But I conceed its also not for everyone, especially those who want revs.

Thanks fellas. RB20LagWagon, yep those mods plus modified factory plenum. 280rwhp on sst's dyno.

Thanks Nexus. Looks like being 4wks before its on its feet again.

As some of you might already know my engine has been a little sick for a while now, had a drinking problem and a bit of blow by - all the usual signs of a cracked ring land. Last weekends cruise was the last straw for it. After a thoroughly entertaining run with dan_the_man, it started smoked prefusley from under the bonnet and felt really under powered on boost. Cutting the cruise short, it was only when I got home did a rythmic 'clunking' make itself known. Took it by SST the next day and the diagnosis was a broken piston. Whats next? After a few days considering all the options (cheap fix and sell, wrecker RB25, wrecker RB26, rebuild RB25), the final decision is a RB30DET build up, oh yeah! Pictures of the carnage forthcoming.

Yeah, all the shops vspec reconmended. Welcome to Perth! I'm the gunmetal 33 that cruised down leach with you one afternoon a few weeks ago. Hard to miss QLD plates on 'lines .

Congrats.

Yeah, we got Niz, Rob and Paul coming back with fresh rebuilds soon. And thats just the ones at SST! osc@r, it was a 2.18x 60 footer.

Basic rebuild is around 5.5 to 6k. Thats with forgies and shot peened rods but without most ARP goodies or head porting. Thats inclusive of all parts. Gets expensive real quick. Just for labour to remove & refit engine, assembly and machining is around 2.5k.

Shouldn't you at least drive a Skyline with HICAS, and understand how it works, before you start recommending surgery like this? Not that HICAS is gods gift (hey, I removed mine this week), but its sounds like you're flying by night here...

I'm on RB74's too. Made by RaceBrakes btw, not DBA. Excellent pad for the money, much nicer than the Ultimates I used previously. The RB74's aren't the most disc-friendly pad around, but they don't fade like Ultimates can, and they take a lot more punishment without dumping resin all over your discs. They did squeal when I first put them on, but that could be put down to heat stressed & worn factory discs - they're quiet as a mouse with DBA slotted rotors on. G0DF4Th3R, not much dust with these. No where near as much as with Ultimates anyway. XRW, Ultimates *are* metal and *do* chew discs. Why are they good again?