Gradenko

Ryan D, on my car (series 1 R33 25t), high beam is 55w not 90w. I just went to the garage and checked it. The stock wiring is rated to 55w. Any more and wiring may hold, but theres no guarantee it won't fail and cause a fire.

You'd have to speak to an auto electrician or car audio installer about wiring upgrades. Its just higher gauge +ve cable run via a relay and a new earth. Ask them about the risks of running 90w globes in place of standard 55w globes. I really would leave high wattage globes for high beams only.

Sorry, what I meant by "high beam globes are the same as low beam globes" is that both low and high beam use the same type of globes - H1. There are seperate globe holders/lamp assemblies for each and they both use H1 55w globes. The only difference, funnily enough, is that the high beam lamp is physically aimed higher than the low beam lamp. 90w bulbs for the high beam lamp would be a good idea though, along with the required wiring upgrades. Rezz, I think you're talking about H4 globes, they have 3 pins and 2 filaments of different wattages. Some cars use a H1 for high beam and a H4 for low/high beam.

Based on ATESSA? Not even remotely. Holdens system is lift straight from the GM parts bin with electronics, at least, being from a Hummer H2. It comprises of two open diffs, front and rear, with a transfer case adjacent to the gear box. Front rear split is mechanically fixed at 38% front and 62% rear. They direct torque between the wheels by braking the wheel that has too much torque. Its an ugly system but it does make it easy to change the setup between cars by reprogramming the electronics controling braking. Which is pretty much what they did when they transfered the system from the Adventra to the Monaro. Everyone seems to have forgotten these cars are only coming in 4 speed autos for now. Performance cars they ain't.

the phantom, I had the exact same thought. But I researched batch firing a little more and found it doesn't make a difference to duty cycle like I thought it would. With batch fire, the ecu fires off two injectors at once. That doesn't mean each injector is fired once a revolution. The two injectors triggered are chosen such that their respective cylinders are fired in succesive order. The two injectors are timed to trigger at the beginning of the first cylinders firing event. This means one cylinder gets fuel at the right time while the second cylinder has fuel sitting in the inlet tract for a short time before the valves open. So each injector is fired once per two revolutions as normal, just that half the cylinders will have less than perfect atomisation and ultimately, more emissions and less effeciency.

Does anyone have any technical (non-marketing) info on these? Rezz, running 90w globes in place of the standard ones is risky as the stock wiring isn't rated to carry that load. It'd also be inconsiderate and illegal to run them as your normal beam. 90w as high beam with upgraded wiring is a good idea though and less likely to be targeted. Craved, high beam globes are the same as low beam globes. If uprated globes for high beam aren't enough for country driving, look at dedicated driving lights. I suspect these Raybrig lights are similar to the current range of xenon halogen globes most lighting manufactures have out. They aren't standard replacements so you'll have to ask for them by name. eg Philips VisionPlus.

Yeah, you're probably right. The bumper may have been replaced with a 2nd hand one that came with driving lights (what you have). Don't forget the relays. Should work ok. Don't have the bracket but you can have my factory double din stereo if you want. Use it to make a bracket or just jam it in there. Need more info, do you think the friction point is too high or too low right now? Come around and I'll have a test drive .

Bozz, have you tried cleaning the aac valve? That and cleaning the tps solved my lumpy cam idle when I first got the car. Also, any of the plugs especially blacker than the others? I had a stuck injector that fouled plugs instantly and had similar symptoms, although more severe (running on 5 cylinders severe).

Its interesting that the Wolf has 4 injector outputs vs the fc's 6 injector outputs. I'd always assumed the Wolf had 6 injection and ignition outputs, so it was at least as good as the factory ecu, but only 4 injector outputs would put the fc slightly ahead in terms of fuel economy and even power per cylinder. Not to say the Wolf doesn't do an admirable job, its the closest plug-in competitor to the fc and its programmable outputs do come in useful. A top of the line Autronic is also lacking compared to the fc - 6 injector outputs but only 4 ignition outputs. Running waste spark would stress the rb's coil packs. And even with Motec, you'd have go to a top of the line M800pro for sequential control of injectors and ignition. Both the Wolf and fc have flaws, just have to trade off on features you do and don't want.

Not sure why Boostzor posted what he posted before, but its all been sorted out. Mostly a case of them not knowing exactly why injector work was done and me jumping to conclusions. I went to source and all is well. them = tony, source = efis

Seems I spoke too soon. Wasn't a problem with the new pintle caps at all. Dirt had dislodged from one of the injectors due to poor work cleaning from a previous workshop and jammed it open. All is running great now, so happy with what had to be done. If you're pulling out injectors to get cleaned (highly reconmended), make sure you go to an injector cleaning shop that has dealt with RB injectors before. Its a bad sign when they say your rb25det injectors are the highest flowing injectors (even high than their machine can read) thats ever been through their shop .

I've looked at adjustable radius rods. They don't increase castor any more than Whiteline's bushes (1.5deg) and cost a lot more. Front camber is set up ok for fast street driving (-1deg 40'). More might help but wouldn't be good for tyre wear. Tyres make a big difference. I'm on Toyo TS1 right now and even though they're a higher spec tyre than my last set (Yoko A539), they don't feel quite as direct. Softer side wall?

I was comparing to a VY R8, which I thought was sharper when I hadn't driven my car for a month, but having driven it recently I realize its no where as direct as a R33. The weight of the VY's steering (heavy) made it feel more direct than it really was. I have factory suspension with uprated Whiteline swaybars front and rear. The swaybars certainly did help with steering feel, but I need more . BTW, JMS got back to me about the alloy steering spacers: -- These don't fit the R33 sorry. -- Theres gotta be something in the steering path we can replace to improve feel.

Steve and I were talking about RB25 injectors which are side feed. Totally different kettle of fish to your top feed when it comes to ease of removal from fuel rail.

Taking the plenum off is a big job. You'll need a socket wrench with a flex head as well as a collection of unijoints. Don't take the plenum off though, its possible to remove the rail while its still on. Just takes a lot of grunting and groaning. JimX, the pintle caps are the 'claw' looking things at the fuel firing end of the injector. They get extremely brittle with age, so you'll easily be able to tell which are broken. A few of them will be missing claws, but I think they still function without them.

I not that I had a problem with pintles, I still have on going problem with those little ****ers. Why oh why aren't they replaceable parts? Wake up Denso! Anyway, after fitting the newly cleaned injectors with custom pintles, the car ran great for about a week. After that I noticed, when starting from cold, it took slightly longer than usual for all 6 cylinders to fire up. Then I found if the engine was stopped and restarted when cold, it would run on 5 cylinders till the throttle was lightly pressed. At this stage I was concerned but didn't know what the cause was yet. Then one day it started to go all wrong. When cold, instead for starting up after a few cranks, it would chug and chug and chug and finally only fire on 5. Rev it and it sounded like a scooby. Drive it and it fired on 6, except when idling. It ran ok (on all 6) after it warmed up. Bought new plugs to see if they'd make a difference. The next day it got even worse. Fired on 6 under load, but backfired off throttle and idled on 5 cylinders all the time. When I pulled the plugs, the one for cylinder 1 was pitch black with carbon (not oil) while the rest looked healthy. I'd pretty much guessed by this stage that injector 1 wasn't sealing to the fuel rail (bloody pintle cap!) and leaking fuel continuously into cylinder 1. Dropped it off at my mechanics with these instructions: "Check out whats going on, but I'm pretty sure its that injector. Remove fuel rail and give it to the injector cleaning guy", who the mechanic knows well. "Injector guy said he'd garantee the work as he pressure tested the rail previously, so ask him to fix the fault for free." Got a phone call yesterday with a $500 bill (!) including cleaning, flowing and pressure testing of injectors (which were cleaned and flowed not 4wks ago). I'm going to try and sort it out tomorrow. Seems to have been miscommunication somewhere along the line. Lesson? Try not to break the pintle caps when you remove them. In spite of all this, I still stand by removing injectors to clean them as the only way.

bbenny, ditching the PCV is a good way to go. Stops all chance of the motor ingesting oil vapour. Just be sure to vent the catch can in some way or you'll be in all sorts of engine trouble. Way I would do it is run one hose for both cam covers (merged or like the factory setup) to the catch can, then use the free hose connection on the can to run a hose into the nether regions of the engine bay and point it at the ground.

Heat isn't a factor. A lean running N/A engine will actually be hotter than your average, rich turbo engine. Don't forget that the turbo works off heat and will absorb up to 100degC from exhaust gas running through it. Our common zirconia oxygen sensors have an operating temp of 350-900degC (corresponding with the average working range of an engine), and I'm sure they're built to last much higher temps. AFAIK, the only things that kill an O2 sensor are age and leaded fuel. Running rich on (premium) unleaded shouldn't affect its life.

Lately, I've felt that steering response on my car hasn't been the greatest. By response, I mean feedback through the wheel and directness when steering. I've already changed all of the front end bushes to polyurethane ones that Whiteline/SuperPro list. Radius rod (castor) Upper control arm (camber) Both of those made improvements but it still doesn't feel as tight as a late model car. What else is there in the steering path that can be replaced? Any bushes holding the steering rack to the car? I've noticed alloy steering spacers on JMS's site. Has anyone tried these?

zanda, i've already got a pair or $15 tweets sitting here that I'm half half about putting in. I was thinking more along the lines of Focal or Dyanaudio tweets. Guess it can't hurt to put the cheapies in and give them a listen.

GTS-t VSPEC, MB Quart and low budgets just don't mix I had a pair of MB's in my last car and I wasn't a big fan of the tweeters. Thankfully, the thevies only took the tweets and left me the mid bass. When I find a worthy tweeter I'll put them back in my car.

GTS-t VSPEC, fronts 'course.

Nizmo, fair enough. Your not planning on replacing the back speakers with those splits, are you? What have you got in the front? Its just that back speakers are usually less than useful, and if your current ones are fudged (like mine are) just disconnect them. Rear stage is distracting to the listen to, better off having good speakers in the front and nothing in the back. (don't mind me, i used to be a car audio head)

Niz, if they're kevlar splits wanna sell them? I'll probably go for a pair of Hertz splits if I can't find Jaycar ones.

zanda, I'm looking at getting a pair of Jaycar splits for my sis, but the kevlar $200 splits aren't in their online catalogue. Do you know if they still sell them? The only splits they list are $80.