enilyks33r

What I want is someone to make a "spoiler" using the top of the replacement boot lid and the base of the "drift wing" with a built in third brake light. That would give a no batwing rear without losing the boot lock. That gives you the option of no spoiler (holes and brake light sorted) or a place to mount the wing of your dreams..... If anyone wants to make these, I will buy one!!!!!

What Brandmodelsize are the tyres? Are the wheels 5 stud 6.6x16's?

What is the modelsize of the tyres? Condition of the rims? Photos available? Post or PM please

Just for interest Alfa 33 and Alfasuds have front wheel hand brake....

I use the factory jacking point in the sills to jack up the car, a piece of 6"x4"x2" hardwood with a slot cut in the top (3/4" deep 1/2" wide across the top face) goes between the jacking point and the trolley jack. Zero damage as the load is taken the same as the factory scissor jack.

I fitted a DumpFront Pipe to my R33GTS25T on the weekend (thanks BATMBL) and had to make a couple of small changes to simplify the install. The Turbo flange has 2 studs and 4 bolts to attach Dump pipe. I replaced the 2 middle bolts with short studs that projected about 20mm from the turbos gasket face. This saves all the drama of attempting to start the bolts as they touch the pipe on the new unit. The nuts on these studs need to have a small hacksaw cut placed in the top face, this allows them to be tightened by drifting them around as they are all but impossible to get a spanner on and no chance for a socket. The heat shield bracket that attaches to 3 of the bolts need to have the ear that attaches to where the new stud replaces the bolt. Spacers (I used 3 washers) are required to make up the difference in thickness between the new DumpFront Pipe flange and the old dumps cast flange. After sorting this out the DumpFront Pipe is dead easy to reattach! The whole job took 3 hours but that included a new cat and full exhaust replacement. The performance improvement is well worth the effort, these small mods will save you a heap of grief

I had one custom made, fits behind bumper with removable neck. Have towed car trailer (1200kg) with my R33, they tow well. The bar cost $350 fitted in Sydney.

I wouldn't mind cruise as well.....the only one i have heard about is an aftermarket unit that interfaces with speed sensor and tps directly (no need to hook up the throttle cable etc). The controls are radio (or iR?) and can be steering wheel mounted. Anyone know the company that makes these?

I changed my diff oil using Castrol Synthetic LSD oil (got mine at supercheap) you need 2 litres (takes about 1.6) at $30 odd per litre. Diff is quiter and car slides more predictably well worth the effort. Fill and drain Plugs came out OK, you will need a oil gun to pump in fluid.

ABS and Airbag CPU are located under this bin, you must have one or both....my S1 has both and console box is about 5cm deep.

Ther were kits in the past that had white or other coloured rubber paint, you then painted in the letters you wanted. Alternatively there are "whitewall" kits that glue (not clipon) on the sidewall, you could cut out the letters and add these where you want rather than being limited by what is moulded on the sidewall. There are crayon type temporary paints to fill in letters but are a lot of effort as needs to be redone regularly. This all bring backs badtaste memories of the 70/80s.......sorry did I say that out loud!!

My R33 is 2 door coupe.....

I have seen oil surge in my R33GTS25t, I have 225/60x16s, DBA slotted rotors with EBC greenstuff. On hard stop from 60-70 kph with a full stop (ABS active) the oil light will flash for less than a second as the car stops!!!! Better baffles or accusump are the only things that will really fix it, I drive round the problem at present but would like a cheap effective fix.

The NSW rule is that the front tyres must be at least 70% the width of the rears, this is to prevent drag style narrow front tyres being used

Skylines tow well, I pulled 1.3 tonne from melbourne to sydney. Ensure that the wiring is done with relays if you are going to have extra lighting on the trailer (not likely if just for jetski) Bar fits under rear bumper cover so nothing is visable when tongue is removed.

If this is the 470x300 with 50mm piping I have one that I do not require....it is slighly twisted and has shortened piping but works ok. Email me at [email protected] if you want any further info.

I did a search and found nothing so........ Can anyone recommend a workshop to do a 100k auto trans service on a R33. Need flush, filter and fluid as all is otherwise OK. Any pointers appreciated.

When redrilling load the drill bit with grease to help catch chips anf is possible lightly pressurise engine with air hose to prevent chips entering sump. Then wash out sump with the oil you drained (into a clean container) after using magnetic pickup thru sump plug hole to pick up any stray chips.

I have towbar on my R33GTS25T, I had it custom made by Carasel at Moorebank. It was about $350 fitted and wired. I pulled a car trailer to and from Melbourne without problems (1400kgs on way back) even though the bar is rated at 1000kgs. I do have a slight contact between one exhaust bracket on LHS of muffler but have had time to have it reshaped. My taillightparkers no longer work on the combination switch but work from foglight switch, I suspect the additional load from the trailer lights may have fried the combination switch so relays may be need if you want to tow rather than carry a bike.

The best protection for stone chiping is to gaffa tape the panels like leading edge of roof/bonnet/guards and front bar. You may want to do lower edge of body aswell. Tape is cheap in big rools and it goes a fairway when put on carefully The only risk then is the h/lights and windscreen.

Finemores and TNT both have fully enclosed car carriers that are used for prestige car delivery. Expect around $1000 Adl to Syd!

I had the same problem, but only on Optimax. BP Ultimate is fine so that is now its the only petrol I use. (I am running Iridiums at .8mm ant 10 psi)

The Z200 is the go its a 5.0 Holden V8 (upto 185kw) The Z201 is RB30 non-turbo. I find they need replacing every 10-15000kms

The button operates a "parking pole", they are fitted in the bumper at usually the front left or rear left. They work like an electric arial and have light in the top for night use. You can see the corners of the car easily (for the short or stupid only) One press of the button for up and once for down. Sounds like you have one hiding under a bumper somewhere.

Brake upgrade: The DA slotted rotors and EBC greens front and rear have dramatically improved the braking performance. Shorter stops, less fade. Pads will squeek at low speeds but stop after a couple of hard stops as dust is removed. Initial bite tends to cause front lock up when emergency stops, not a problem for me as I have ABS, but can be avoided by applying brake pressure lighter and ramping up as weight tranfers to front (just like a motorcycle).