gdogzgtr

Thanks for reponses have aftermarket intercooler not exactly sure what type but definetly not standard. I have added cold air intake to pod filters. Oil cooler and sump standard told only to upgrade oil cooler if racing car on track. Don't know much about oil sump, only change if necessity and not too costly. How much is adding larger oil sump? Is it necessary for daily driving as am not planning on racing car just wanted better performance day to day in all conditions.

I have got a 1995 r33 gtr aiming for 330kw@aw with r34 n1 turbo's. I am in process of getting engine rebuilt. I have got forged pistons, N1 bearings, upgraded oil pump, head work, new crank, new timing belt, blue print build and metal head gasket. While engine is being built do I need to upgrade anything else for strength of engine not for more power. I don't want to spend much more but would be stupid if I need something else to make engine safer and stronger and didn't do it now. Any advice would be appreciated.

I have a 95 GTR with N1 ball bearing turbo's fitted it is set up to be running 21-22 psi giving about 330 kw@aw. I have done extensive mods to engine etc, but only have standard BOV. Is this going to be a problem? also I have pod filters open in engine bay. I am going to get them boxed in and run a cold air intake. Does anyone have any suggestions on intake system or if aftermarket BOV is needed? Also what is the cost of doing same and where to get fitted in melbourne? Thanks for any responses.

Thanks everyone for yor responses. I am definetely getting oil pump, Forged pistons, N1 bearings, new timing belt, blue print and steel head gasket. I have been informed that oil pump very important so putting in the extra money. I have decided not to upgrade water pump as not really necessary. I'm not sure if I will ever take car to track or not. I never planned to but might now after doing up engine should handle it fine. All I wanted was a sleeper looking car with kick arse power and maximum accellaration. Just want car to fly from take off. I was never going to do a project like this but after walking away from a head on collision with a Nissan Patrol with a huge bull bar and I was in a 1985 Ford TX5 turbo a couple of months ago I decided always better sooner rather than later. (BLOODY DRINK DRIVER WAS ON WRONG SIDE OF ROAD AND DROVE OFF. BLOODY INSURANCE COMPANY STATED AS ONLY HAD 3RD PARTY WOULD NOT COVER ME AS I WAS PARTLY TO BLAME BY JUST BEING ON THE ROAD.) By the way this site kicks arse due to the knowledge of Nissan owners. My MRS owns a 95 TT supra and posted a couple of questions on supra forums and got like one response by a moron who stated runs 19psi on stock ceramic turbos. It seem like they are all poor young americans who bag later model supras as they can't afford them. KEEP UP THE GOOD WORK GUYS.

I am getting my engine rebuilt at present with forged pistons. I have been informed of other upgrades. My car has N1 turbo's, AFM, Power FC, Electronic boost control, HKS adj cam gears, upgraded FMIC, Full 3.5 "exhaust without cat with twin dump pipes, Twin K&n pod filters, Upgraded Injectors, fuel pump, HKS twin plated clutch, lightened fly wheel. Got dyno tuned at 310@all wheels. I am looking at getting N1 bearings, blue print engine build, new timimg belt, steel head gasket and water pump have been quoted about $1750 for this. This is at end of budget already gone over. Are these engine mods well worth that price and worth it long term when asking that sort of power. I would expect about 330-350 KW@all wheels when completed with above mods. Also is upgrading oil pump necessary was quoted about 850 for that, can't afford now. If I don't do that are the other mods for 1750 a waste of time. Any responses appreciated.

I posted on here in relation to having a modified r33 gtr on what performance times to expect and was very happy with the responses. I have found out that the car I bought had a dtonated piston as the previous driver had the boost up too high. I have been lucky that it was found before I got the car and the sellers are going to fix the problem with forged pistons and only charge for parts. I have been lucky that it was found out before I got the car and am better off getting the forged pistons as I was running about 310kw@all wheels. I was just wondering apart from strengthening the engine does forged pistons/ Engine rebuild with racing parts increase performance. This probably sounds like a stupid question to most of you but never really looked into engine parts as labour sooo expensive and only got it done as all labour for free. Thanks for any imput.

No worries. Anyone with questions on what's legal or defecable in victoria I will find out. There is no point spending good money to do up cars just to find out that it's illegal and you have to remove it or your car is unroadworthy. The most obvious things are loud exhausts, open air filters in engine bay and BOV which are all EPA issues.

[i've only had a TT Soarer and my misses has a TT supra which has 220 @ rear wheels. I will take it easy for a while for sure. One thing I have over most of you guys thiugh is I have done a 2 week extreme drivers course due to my job as a cop. Please don't hate me now I don't pick on Jap imports just when people have BOV that can be heard miles away or drive like a dick head we pull them over. Well that's in victoria I can't speak for other states and I can't speak for Traffic units either. Generally the most we can do is EPA the cars due to open air filters and BOV otherwise you are left pretty much alone. Thanks again for your response. Also in repsonse to earlier saying 20 kw gain form octane boost. It's not just the booster a dyno is the equilivent as a 35 deg day as lack of cool air as only fan blowing. If your doing 80km/h plus and it's a cold night you would get that improved 5% gain.

[Thanks guys for all your responses. I would be more than happy with 11.2-11.6 1/4 mile time. I don't see myself taking it to the track any time soon though. I just wanted it set up for maximum accelaration and quickest 0-100 times just for every day driving to have the huge power when I want it off the mark to say goodbye at the lights etc. If I can run close to 3.5 0-100 I am happy with the results. I know it is set up for turbo's to kick is asap which is about 2900 rpm and has already 200+ @wheels by 4000 rpm and just keeps going. All up I have spent about $8500 for the mods, since it already had cat back exhaust, intercooler upgrade, suspenion and mags when I bought it. It's not a V-SPEC model done under 35,000kms. Is $45,000 on road a decent price for this car with such low km's and such mods. Including full black re-spray and sterio system and new clutch plates on top of the 8500. Anyway I still haven't even driven it yet or being in a gtr let alone a modified one. I hope its as good as everyone says and the good thing is my misses can drive a manual. What a shame. Just one more question for you guys with GTR'S dyno is the power at all 4 wheels or does it revert to only rear wheels on dyno?

The cops don't need a reason. Any mods etc and be ready to be EPA

I have just bought a 95 r33 gtr. It has just posted 310 kw @ the wheels. It has 2 steel plated ball bearing turbo's running 20 psi. Upgrded intercooler and piping. Adjustable hks cam gears 3.5 inch Exhaust going straight through cat. twin sports air filters Electronic boost controller Aftermarket E.C.U air flow meter hks sports cluth and fly wheel injectors and fuel pump. Sports suspenion and 19x10 mags. I would expect on a cold night with octane booster about 325-330 at the wheels. What 0-100 km times and 1/4 times would this be possible of. I would never take it to the drags but just want to know for my own interest. I was told it was possible for high 10's and just under 4 sec 0-100. Does this sound about right?