JNR24

Hi Guys, My pride and joy is up for grabs. Iv owned the car since it landed here in auz, and need to sell to build my house. The car is on ebay click here to see & carsales click here to see Pics etc. The car is truely regretable sale. Anti lag is setup, and drives perfect. If you keen on inspecting the car before you commit im fine with that. Engine Modifications: - RB26NEO Oil & Water Pump - RB30 Arias forged pistons, with chromemoly rings. - RB30 Rods, shotpened, cracktested and polished. - RB30 Block: x-rayed, chemicleaned, line bored, fully balanced,new main bolts & ACL Race series engine bearings , fresh rear & front-main seals. - Cometic Head gasket - OS triple plate clutch - RB26 Plenum. - RB 25 Head has had EXTENSIVE head work. including: port and polish, new valves, guides, and all lifters replaced. - Also cams have been ground to a more "lumpy profile". - Custom fuel-rail feeds Bosch 363 injectors by a Bosch 044 intank pump. - Turbo is a GT35/40 (1000HP) rollerbearing, with a .70 compressor, with a 1.02 exhaust housing (with a beanie), running through to a 4inch exhaust system the whole way through. (Surprisingly very quite) with a custom made 55mm external wastegate. - Custom made extractors to suit a high mount turbo setup. - Motor is controlled by a Autronic SMC, with anit-lag enabled. (tune is perfect) - Custom modified throttlebody - GTR V-Spec Diff, with oil cooler. - 37 Row engine oil cooler (Same size as standard intercooler on the R33's, and ive mounted mine in the factory intercooler spot aswell) - Big frontmount cooler, hidden away behind the front bar. - Full set of Carbon fiber series auto-meter gauges, (Oil & water Temp, Stoich meter, & boost) - Nismo 320KLM speedo - Pioneer Headunit, wih 12"sub, 6X9s, and splits. (Very nice sounding audio setup) - 20" Chrome rims with brand new rubber all round. - I have done around 8000KLMS since rebuild, car has just been a "weekender" every since. (barely driven anymore) Any questions, please dont hesitate to ask, i need to sell! MOB: 0421137900 [email protected] This car drives like factory, you will not find a cleaner more reliable street modified car. There are a couple of little scratches on the car, as you would expect on a older car.

Bump price reduced on ebay, check it out. 15K bids!

Hi Guys & Gals, my pride and joy is up for grabs. take a look here Below is just a cut and past from my add on ebay, all pics are on there and my can be downloaded at the bottem of this post... (link) ------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- This car is a steal, Im selling this as need something more appropriate for work. This R33 has had well over $15,000 spent on modifications (i have kept all receipts, as seen in above photos) Engine has done about 8,000KMs and has been recently switched to fully synthetic motor oil. (Everything is ran in) Not only does this car make huge power, it is also a daily driver. VERY fuel efficient considering motor generates 590HP. Im still getting around 400KLMs to a tank, just taking it easy. Im selling this with 12months new reg, (march 08) and will include RWC. There are a few scraches, (hardly noticable) You can see in the pictures below, there are bug marks on the front bar (The car is over 13 years old) and there is a scratch on the front left guard. The pic of the rear guard: there is a little bit of acrylic water based paint, that will come off with a hand polish. (nothing much at all) List of mods include: * GT35/40 Roller bearing turbo * Bosch 363 injectors, with bosch 044 intank fuel pump * Autometer Carbon fiber gauges (Air/fuel, water temp, oil temp, & boost) * Full mandrel bent 4" exhaust through to a apexi cat back system. * Auronic SMC ECU. (Anti-lag available, but not enabled switch is setup) * GTR intake plenum, fabricated to fit RB25 Runners * Huge port and polish on head. (over $2000 spent) * Everything that gets hot has been HPC Extream coated * Extractors * 65M external wastgate. * Arias Forged pistons * Engine machining (over $1500) * Air conditioning, regased and lines have been moved. * RB30 Engine block, with RB25 head. * Oversized valves, and cams have had work done. * Cometic Head gasket * RB26 Oil and water pump. * 20" rims from tempe tyres. This car generates a lazy 317RWKW, with more room to move. But with the car wheelspining through most of 3rd gear its probably not needed. I have heaps more photos of the engine build if you would like to see them please click the link below: Download pics of RB30 engine build

NEO Heads run solid lifters... RB25 runs Hydrolic lifters. Are these cams still for sale..?

IT DOESNT MATTER.... Compressor surge does jack crap to your turbo... it wont "blow it up", your turbo is working harder compressing the air than coming offboost. Please get a timing light with any car running a high-mount on a dyno, and SEE what happens to the compressor blades when the "big bad cooler noise" happens... haha yeh man... the turbo blades stop/start spinning backwards.. haha. FFS stop reading useless advertising crap off of the turbosmart F.A.Q One of my best freinds (drives a straight gas VL turbo GAS-747) runs a 10.80 all day/daily driver, runs 30PSI driving over 2 years without ANY problems with the turbo at all. (GT40) Look at most sub 10 sec turbo VLs... what a suprise... no re-circ B.O.V. Really as posted above, its horse's for courses. Whatever you prefer, i have NEVER heard of a turbo destroying itself through compressor surge and if it was such a major issue for turbo reliability most TOP STREET drag cars would be running them. (Bres, rajab come to mind) if your after turbo reliabilty, run a R34 NEO or GTR oil & water pump... that will save your turbo before a BOV. But whatever floats your boat mate! Cheers, Trev

Danny, is it true that this turbo can inhale small children off the footpath? =P

And yes, it is made by mothers... http://www.autogeek.net/motbactrimca.htm

Can you buy this stuff from supercrap?

No pinging? no problems! My Freind is running a standard RB30 gasket in his Rb30/25 on 25PSI.

First issue: Drag cars and BOVS?? Does somthing look weird there? Why would a "Drag" car be closing its throttle? (not to mention running off boost?) And please dont tell me that "Pro drag" cars run bog stock 5 speed boxes, as most are either running Glides (off-street boys), or air assistated clutch setups, or Holinger boxes (Pros) If a Drag Racer is depending on a BOV for a time diffrence, he shouldnt be drag racing. Drag cars should be on Boost for the entire 1/4mile. Sounds a bit bizzare to me, even if they only release at the end of a run... Second point: Guys think outside the square, nissan designed this car from a balance of the following: economy, reliability, & performance. Not JUST performance. (Refer to Sydneykids post above) These are "Production Cars" produced for the Masses! Not D1 Drivers. Nissan has spent Millions of Dollars on R&D, more than ANY aftermarket garage in the world would spend on R&D. This is because they are not performanced focused, but a balance between all feilds. BOVs are there for a reliability reason, & perhapes a small performance benifit.... And they play such a small role in in turbo reliability anyhow, there need is questionable. Cooling, and Oil flow/quality would play a more major part in turbo reliabilty than a BOV. Cheers, Trev

I know a guy with a clapped out VL that gets pwned by my 3 Cylinder charade with my nana driving it. Sorry about hijack fellas. Whats goin on slaphead! pm me.

You would have to be talking about Mr sera? (VLS_BACK) (i go for lunch with the guy allmost everyday) =P Gas is fine however, The VL your talking about runs twin converters.. and runs allot warmer. Not to mention he is running a GT40, with a 4K stall & transbrake.... All that into consideration, and it is by all means "QUICK" but his brothers car is evidence, that you cant beat a "petrol setup" for perfomance. (james is running 9s 1/4miles) All that aside: -He drives the car allmost everyday. - Thats gota be good. -Its reasonably cheap to run -No injectors, fuelrails, pumps, fuellines etc. - Good $$$ saving, not to mention very tidy -underbonet & no buzzing pumps in the boot? -EPA Legel (From a emission perspective) -Only need a computer to fire plugs. (dont need a expensive type computer to run the motor etc.) Good luck

This is a funny post! Bahhaha prank this should be in the wasteland/jokes section. A true engine performance upgrade... because everyone knows the RWKW performance gains of the %10 shorter than factory shifter & overpriced plastic gearknob! Also i love your blueprinted crank!, but i dont know of many engine builders that will bother to blueprint just a specific engine compent such as just a crank or just rods or just rings (because that not blueprinting mate) blue printing is painstakeingly going over EVERY bearing/sleeve/ring/gaps etc. And perhapes buying 9-10 packs of rings & bearings and makeing sure all of them arel within +/- .001" of each other also + maybey $2-3K ontop of your engine build ... maybe you should understand what blueprinting means first and how REALLY BLODDY expensive it is to have done properly. (Ive included what it actualy means below, so next time you dribble rubbish on another forum they might just believe you? :kick: ) Take a read, learn what you think your motor has, and stop dribbling dude.

What a bad call.... phatgtst bad effort dude....

Nice find

Hey Discopotato, No offence taken, but just for the record 2 of my freinds both running the same intake setup as myself & massive cams have no problems at all. To be perfectly honest with you i dont realy understand what you have said above, what i do understand is "It works, & works very well" (Very streetable cars, there daily drivers), and also is very cost effective. (My head set me back $500.00, +300.00 for RB26 plenum) please PM me a phone number if you can find me a RB26 head & intake for under 1K. You will find alot of people do this because they dont have the $$ for a RB26 head & intake setup, After all if we all had the $$ im sure not to many of us, including myself would bother fabricating RB26plenum to a RB25Manifold. Trev

It was made on that engine stand by myself dude. Yep, just bought a 1 foot peice of aluminium tubing offcut and then cut and welded 6 pieces in between the intake & plenum. No problems, eveything lines up perfectly.

Hey guys, Heres some pics of my RB30/25 with a RB26 plenum on a 25 intake manifold. It took around 6 hours, and cost me $300. Any questions PM me i will be glad to help out.

Hey can someone inform me of what the diffrences are between the OS 3L, and the Nissan/RB30. Please be as specific as you possably can. (No 1 liners please) Trev

Thanks dude.

Ok quick question, Does the R33 manual transmission input shaft go straight into the RB30 Crank?

Abcent, repair work is alot more simple than a re-spray. Im sure you have allready been told this, but to get a car back down to bare metal & respray will cost you anywhere between $4-6K depending wether or not you have the door jams & engine bay done aswell. (Also it depends on the color you choose aswell) I feel your pain, i had the same thing happen to me about a year ago. Any ETA on when its gona be fixed? trev

Hey Mick, Trust me i have pulled MANY "seized" timing gears off. (Proof off this is the amount of dents in my garage walls) They WILL EVENTUALLY come off. No matter how impossable it looks/feels. If you really cant be bortherd persisting with it you can try the following: Are you going to use the RB30 oil pump anyways? If your not, go the hack & cut the timing belt guard off the oil pump and use the puller. good luck... I feel your pain!

Mick, Use a pully puller! =) Looks like a claw, it has three legs that sit behind the pulley. Then theres a 1/2" thread that sits on the crank, when you tighten the bar it pulls the pulley off. super-crap auto sell them from about $12.00 If theres not enought room to use the puller, use 2 heavy duty flatheads and pry the barsted loose. They eventualy give up! Cheers, Trev

LOL he beats my daily driver! Red diahatsu charade, 3 Cylinder, 995CC!!!, more hits than elvis!