JNR24

SLK-GTR: I have only seen 1 GTR in Geelong, and its a Purple R33. I think he lives in Grovedale. All factory. They are pretty rare around geelong. Interloper: Yeh, apparently he was moving along at a fair pace. But i do burnouts and stuff in my car, but i also know the limits of my car. Not to mention 3 advanced/defensive driving courses, CAMS & 13 track events.

Kinda off topic, but im pretty sure most of you would of heard by now anyways: 3 Cars last night where involved in a collision last night at "Top Carpark" AKA "Shaggaz" Apparently 1 White 180SX (LTZ**N) was doing a burnout/donuts when he lost control of his car (At a very fast speed) and collected a parked silver lancer, and a white VP commodore. (VP**T1) this all resulted in the driver of the 180SX having to be cut out of his written off car. Noone was "Seriously injured". Something to think about, its amazing how quickly & easily things can go REALLY BAD. A simple burntout wiped 3 cars, driver will never be insured again, more than likely wont walk the same again... (If he wasnt insured he will be in a "world of shit" in the next few years of his life) PS: i didnt see this all happen, I got the info off a bystanding Fire officer. and I just saw the aftermath off the 3 cars involved. Guys just a quick sidenote, the weather is going to get warmer in the coming months, topcarpark & easterns are going to be VERY busy at all hours of the night. If your gona cruise or do burnouts, be carefull, look around, and watch other peoples cars. (I wouldnt be to worried about actually stacking into someone, but i allmost put a Fu(khead into st.johns who was doing donuts around 4 months ago in a VN SS, and sprayed my car with rocks/rubber after my car was just resprayed, so have some consideration for other peoples rides) trev

Hi Guys, I own the two-tone R33 MSPEC, Blue/Silver with 20" Chomeies Completly stock ATM, but in about 4 week i will have RB30/25 transplant. I genrally give a wave to other R33 drivers anyways, seem to be in rare amounts around the geelong region. trev

Also what is the hole underneath the turbo water return hole, used for? Cheers

Thanks for you help guys, In regards to the wastegate, what do i feed to the top hat?? i understand the bottem but im just unsure what i will need to run to the top half of the wastegate. Cheers, Trev

Hi guys, i need a hand... any help would be much appreciated: http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/sh...ead.php?t=44432 Cheers, Trev

Couple of questions, First, i just wanted to confirm the Oil plug on the RB30 block that goes into the turbo, is it the hole directly above the the Oil drain plug (just of to the left) with the tape half off it? (See below pic) If not where is it? Also where are the water OUT & RETURN holes? I know the water line INTO the turbo from the block comes from this side of the block but im unsure as to which one. OK now second question, The external wastegate i have has two holes, Presumably both are vacume. But where do i run the lines too? and which one goes whitch hole on the wastgate. Does one run from the plenum to the top hole of the wastgate and then one from XXXXX?? Heres a couple of pics to show the holes: Any help is appreciated. Thanks guys, Trev

il email you tonight, Cheers, Trev

Iam not selling these kits to public anymore, due to a few people ruining it for everyone. Sorry. Trev

yep, Boost comes on EXTREAMLY sharp, and fast. (boost comes on with allmost same response as a supercharger charger, except without the linear boost rate of a charger.) Gees... T88 33D would be diffrent, provided you have a 8K auto with transbrake and 12" slicks.

Dave, Well it arrived at aussie customs yesturday, so as soon as they send the package out to me il send em out. You SHOULD have it within this week (Fingures crossed that there is no more delays) Cheers, Trev

Woops forgot to attach screenie:

hi dave! got a suprise for you coming soon... (Check screenie below) I thought "GT" was Garrets definition of a Ball Bearing unit. e.g GT35R = Ball bearing Garret, Repairable T04R= Bush Bearing, Repairable Someone has to know, i checked Rays site but i couldnt find GT specs... Cheers, Trev

Steve, The GT35R, R = Rebuildable/Repairable?? Theres no diffrence between a GT35 or a GT35R it terms of size. (both have same size compressor & Exhaust housing,/ can have same size housings fitted .63, .82, 1.06.) Heres the confusing part: The GT35R's flow 50lbs/ as per GCGs website (www.gcg.com.au) and are rated @ 700HP BUT the GT35's flow 60lbs/ as per HPIAB (www.http://www.horsepowerinabox.com/HPIAB2/prod34.htm) and are rated @ 600HP Whats the 100HP & $655.50 diffrence between these turbos? trim sizes? core? (sorry about the hijack) Cheers, Trev

Your VERY lucky on this, most people i know that have broken timing belts, loose all 24 Valves. (regardless of what gear/RPM there doing) And end up replacing the head, because its cheaper. Chances are that if your valves are bent, the guides & seals are going to need to be replaced on those bent valves. and theres no OEM dude. (that i know of at least) good luck.

.82 is too small small for a VL, yet for a 260z! last 2 VLs i have put GT35/40s on with .82, ended up changing to a 1.06 with 1 month of road driving. .82 are fun, but boost comes on too hard to quick. (again this comes down to the application of the car, .82 would be good for circuit work.)

hehehe, i just hope you have a good pair of 9.5"s on the back Joel! dont say i didnt warn you!

I have a mate with a GT35/40 on a RB30DET. (.82/AR) Boosts too quickly, and is impossable to drive in the wet. (without going "gutter-to-gutter" accross a 4 lane freeway) i would go the 1.06 for drivabiltys sake. cheers, trev

Guys, I have noticed in the RB25 Workshop manual it says to first Torque the head down to a small number... like 25-30pounds all round... Then torque to 70-75 (100Nm) and then back to 0!!? then back to 101Nm?? Why? Doesnt this create unnessacery stretch on the head bolts, and doesnt the gasket loose its "mojo" (tensile) Do you guys tension the head a diffrent way? Cheers, Trev

Also for all the people bitching in a email to me, about "price" ... (You know who you are) SERIOUSLY.... If you think you can get a better quality piston for a better price, GO FOR IT! Im sick to death reply to emails that say. "My motor builder says that XXXX piston is better... BLAH BLAH BLAH" I sell these pistons to over 13 Diffrent engine builders & Machinists (Many of which have Top fuelers) because they cant get this price "Trade". If i was your engine builder i would be saying these are crap too! i would love to make an extra 250 bucks out of you. If your not intrested in buying a quality piston, at a dirt cheap price, thats ok by me. Im not doing any more "group buys, or forum sales" after this one. Because i dont need the extra stress for 3-4 buys, that i allmost loose money on. I respect the people that havent stuffed me around and have asked geniune questions & purchases. Rant over, Trev

Sorry dude, price isnt set by me. Also, these pistons are fantastic. I can vouch for them personaly, & im sure Clint can aswell... These arent your normal forged piston, Wiseco garentee that all pistons tolerances are less than one-half-of-one-thousandths of and inch (.0005). Your normal forgies arent.... Aswell as Ductile Iron Plasmamoly coated rings, as apposed to normal Chromemolys that most forgies use. Also, you wont get your piston skirts coated for free, and give it to you for $950 deliverd to your door. If your still intrested, send me a email [email protected] Cheers, Trev

Sorry OutZero, Yep your price is $950, but for the rest of the guys who are buying the RB25 pistons its $1050. Cheers, Trev

These come with coated (Teflon) skirts, (Silent on startup, less wear on pistons) Also these come with Ductile Iron Plasmamoly coated rings, (Alot stronger than normal Chomemoly rings, that most forged pistons come with) If your in let me know, Im trying to organise it all for this week. And if you come into the deal final price for everyone is $1050. Cheers, Trev

LOL GTST! Your making it out like its rebuilding a motor! Its about 2 hours of welding & 2 hours of precision cutting & filling. Its not that hard to do, provided you can weld aluminium. Lining it all up is the hardest part. WLD747, ask around at Jap wreckers. youl pick one up cheap enough. Remember you dont need any of the bullshit stuff, (THorttles, linkages. etc) just the plenum. Cheers guys, Trev

Note: All runners dont line up 100%, some tweaking had to be done.