tp1gts2

couple of photo's of my rig on the track [/url [url=http://smg.photobucket.com/user/nismogtr/media/10474689_258095587716772_4179200256436407963_n.jpg.html]

origin lab r32 kit, dmax +20 rear fenders and +15 front. single turbo on a 26, max rear knuckles, driftworks r chassis front knuckles, anything else you want to know?

few shots of my gtst

yep can do, let me know mate

ok i have the a full rb20setup out of my r32 gtst, everything was running great when i took it out, reason for taking it out is ive replaced it with a rb26. rb20 full motor, never had a reliability problem with this, ive put over 20,000ks on it, drove it from tasmania to wa, its a typical rb20 and loves life. always serviced with motul oil. has gates racing timing belt, adjustable cam gears, new waterpump.$1000 ap engineering power fc for r32 rb20. comes with commander. $800 550cc injectors. $500 plazmaman inlet plenum. powder coated black. $800 z32 afm. $150 Exedy "Sports Single" sports organic clutch.$500 jjr coilpacks.$300 full rb20 loom. $50 standard radiator. $50 have alternator, starter, ac compressor. $50 each will sell the whole lot as one for $3000 everything is ono, need this stuff gone. all located in busselton, wa can take pics, pm your number and i will sort it.

hey guys! so ive just put a 26 in to my gtst, the 26 didnt have a tps on it when i got it, so ive swapped the plug and put the rb20 one on... now ive started it for the first time and it hunts at idle, the motor has been stripped and put back together, think its the tps or something else ive missed when i put it back together? cheers!

hey guys, can i please get this engine number "fasted"? rb26 043626A cheers

wow, here a was thinking i was moving over here to the big time so do you know of any good places to go buy a rb26 from around here? the plan was to say goodbye to the rb20 my car and put a 26 in and have it on e85.

hey guys, im wondering if anyone knows of anywhere that has e85 fuel on pump around the busso or bunbury area, if not where id be able to get some drums from ive recently moved over from tassie so i dont know about the area haha also, if i wanted to buy a rb26 where would be the best place to go? cheers, Nathan

thanks mate i have 235/45/17 front and back, its nice and low but still practical with the standard front bar, never been pulled over by police just because of how it looks i am in tassie though, so thats no supprise haha

it wasnt that hard to fit them, i used a jack handle to roll them myself, they are only just flared out, nothing too extreme. i think its like 2.5 degrees front and back. they have no gaurd liner

they are 17x9.5 +17 or 15 or something haha pretty sure its 17

few of my 32

Will it really squeel like that? Every exhaust leak I've heard has a fluffy noise at idle? This is silent, at idle, also has been making this noise for a year or so, but I have never got around to fixing it. Thanks for the help guys

hey guys, so my 32gtst has a squeeling noise when on boost, ive never heard a boost leak before and would like to know what you guys think? it has a hks gtrs, plasmaman inlet plenum, power fc etc.. www.youtube.com/watch?v=0DlWQGKmorE&feature=player_profilepage it you guys could help it would be amazing and yes i have looked, had the plenum off twice, checked all the intercooler pipes, i just cant find anything cheers

you dont NEED to do the wiring, it would be better, but i dont think it will fix the problem your having

sounds like what happend to me, only my 040 was fine for about 6 months, went to a drift praccy day and by the end of the day it wouldnt rev over 2,500, idled nice, just with any load or any revs it wouldnt run, just couldnt get enough fuel to the engine, got it home, it sat in the shed over night, next day i took it for a run and it went fine for a min or two then started to die again now have another 040 in it and its been fine for a few months with a few drift days, i put it down to a dodgy pump is your 040 new or used? try another 040 and see if its any different i have my pump wired up with 12v all the time and stock fpr

i found that my hks gtrs wastegate/actuator setup did exactly what your talking about when i had no boost controller inline unplug your boost controller and put it straight on your wastegate actuator and see if its any different, if it doesn't change then maybe your boost cotroller is the problem maybe rig up a simple bleed valve and see if you can control the boost with that to eliminate your boost controller

im going to wait until ive got the plazmaman plenum on before i go for the retune, unfortunately it will stuff up the idea of comparing the plenum's but money is scarce. im also going for a different tuner this time because i think a good tuner should have picked this problem up to start with!

good news, ive found the problem! it now hits 18psi at about 4100-4200 i think i had the bleed valve wound out a heap like it said on the bleed valve's instructions, and when i took it for the first drive it topped out at 18psi so i thought i was on a winner and fluked where id set it up to. turns out i had it would out way too far and the pressure was getting straight to the actuator. i shouldve clicked earlier when i took the bleed valve out and it didnt change one bit anyway, im just happy its sorted now, luckly i had this brain wave of putting the dump pipe back on and trying a few other things like winding the bleed vavle almost all the way in was seriously thinking about not posting this up on here because i now look like a tool haha thanks to all that helped, but it was just me being a muppet causing the problem

ok, so ive just taken the dump pipe off and was going to get the wastegate part of the split dump chopped off down the bottom and the hole in the exhaust welded up. now ive taken it off, i can see that there would still be a gap up at the flange between the two pipes because the gasket dosnt run between them, can this vacuum still occur and pull my wastegate open even with a gap up the top? its gotta be a pretty big vacuum to pull it open, the actuator is fairly stiff! seriously thinking of getting my stock exhaust manifold modified to take a external gate and get rid off all these problems it could be in one fowl swoop! have a mate that can do it for $50 just means i gotta take the manifold off for the first time in 16 years thanks everyone for your help!

so... my cheapest option would be to chop the wastegate pipe off screamer spec and block the hole left in the exhaust? other than that going external gate with the stock manifold might be a idea, what size gate would i need for this? the kit is brand new, had to wait ages for it to get made the whole idea of my dyno run was because ive got a plazmaman plenum on the way and wanted to see how much difference it makes, glad i done it now, should go heaps better with proper boost and the plenum haha thanks alot PM-R33, you might be on to something there

im running one of the jjr split exhaust/wastegate front and dump pipes it cant be the cat converter as there isnt one, and there is no mufflers so i cant see the exhaust being restrictive and its perfectly ok to pick my pressure line for the actuator up from the nipple on the compressor housing?

well, ive just adjusted the actuator shaft as far as i could in(shorter about 10mm) that should preload it right? took it for a drive like that and it still boost's to 18psi and does it slowly like on the dyno graph mates are putting the pressure on to go external gate, i want to hold off on that in case there is a easy fix for this actuator