tp1gts2

thanks alot guys! last night i took the bleed valve off and put the line from the front of the turbo straight to the actuator, went for a run, it didnt change a thing, it weas exactly the same as before. just then i wired the actuator shut, went for a spin, boost up heaps earlyer about 4500 by the looks of it. so what does this mean? is my actuator falty? my line is picked up off the nipple on the front compressor housing like the stock rb20 turbo was, then straight to the actuator what do i do next? replace the actuator? thanks alot guys, you've been a heap of help

i decided to put my car on the dyno to see how much power it had. mods are standard rb20 gtrs turbo power fc 550cc injectors cooling pro fmic 3" exhaust turbo back do you think my gtrs should make more boost earlier than this? i have a turbotech bleed valve on the hks adjustable actuator. can i just run the actuator by itself without the bleed valve? what would be better? here are the air/fuel graph and torque graph im interested on hearing your opinion's as im not right up with this kind of stuff

hey, i have bosch 040 intank pump in my 32gtst and recently went to a drift practice day at baskerville in tasmania, halfway through the day my car started cutting out at high revs or high load, by the time i got home i couldn't rev it past 2500rpm or put much load on it at all and the pump was buzzing its head off the bosch 040 had shat itself, i now have a new one in there and all is good, but im worried if i go back to the track again it will happen again. some people have told me i should get a surge tank, but i cant see how it could run out of fuel(enough to stuff the pump) with over half a tank left ive done the voltage mod and am running the pump off my own relay and it has 14volts going to it, could this hurt it? but maybe i just got a dud pump very grateful for any help! for those interested heres a vid from the praccy day, my first one so go easy!! over

hey damo, im up for the gtr front bar! i have the normal front bar if you wonna swap or sort something out with $ let me know nice job on the weekend btw, can see you improving cheers

nice work! love the headlights and wheels what are the headlights like in the dark with the clear lens's and painted black? are they still any good? where did you pick the clear lens's up from? i want some!

as if you'd stand on the outside of a turn anyway! haha

here's few pics of my bus striking a pose, and because it sucks posing, heres some others

might be something for whiteline to have a look at. as far as i know i have a factory gtst rear cradle, but who knows! i wouldn't be driving it anywhere, sounds horrible when it hits the tailshaft bolts doesn't it!

i bought a rear sway bar for my 32 gtst of you a while ago gary. When i fitted mine the tailshaft rubbed on it, the same as what DjeMz's is in the second pic, but it didnt rub on the floor i found some 5mm alloy plate and made up some spacers for the "D" bush's to space them down, so now the sway bar doesn't hit when driving, just when i jack the back up the bar pivots enough to rub the tailshaft bolts. does this effect the way the sway bar works?

pm sent, consider the power fc sold

righto, havnt done this in a while, or at all for that matter anyway, just finished putting my new hks gtrs turbo on the 32, along with sard 550cc injectors, adjustable cam gears, timing belt and water pump. now its down to what ecu im gonna chuck at it, a rb26dett power fc is looking the goods at the moment, heard from damo that with some small changes she'll run alright! (will contact you damo when ive got he coin to buy one, so you can show me what i gotta do exactly! ) hopefully it will be half reliable and more club days and some drift days to come

hi, ive just installed a set of the extra lock spacers/washers in my 32 gtst Ive adjusted the extra toe in it would've given me back to what it was before i put the spacers in. the lock stoppers on the hubs are now hitting the lca, to stop the lock, obviously. but there is still some more lock to be had in the steering rack before it bottoms out. the question id like to ask is, is it alright to take a bit off the lock stoppers on the hub's to utilize the rest of the movement in the rack? or is that plain dodgy? any help is appreciated. cheers, Nathan

i do realize that its too small to do any good in the way of power, but it will do to get the car running/run-in until i can afford a larger turbo and a rb25 gearbox unless you mean it physically will not bolt on?

sorry, but its 304 pages long! i will have a quick flip through it and see if i can dig anything about this up, but so far its all about using the r32 rb25de head. maybe i'm just lazy! but ill look again

hey, i've found a rb30det motor for sale, so i'm doing a little research on what id have to do b4 i go out and buy it. this will be a budget setup for now, so im hoping to use the stock rb20 turbo and ecu (with a remap to suit) to run the 30 ive done some searcing on here and found that my rb20 exhaust manifold will swap over, but my inlet manifold will not fit on the r33 rb25de head, witch is unfortunate as that would've been ideal! does anyone know what modifications i have to do to my 32 gtst's loom(or anything else) to make the r33 rb25de head work with the stock 20 ecu? any help is much appreciated, and if you help, you get a sweet thumbs up!! cheers! PS. the motor comes with the r33 rb25de inlet manifold

sweet bus! feel like letting the width and offset of those wheels slip? they look hot!

yeah, im starting to think rolling/liping the gaurds might be the way to go. was worth a try tho, they were pretty cheap. someones gotta try new things PS: you must admit, it would look fat from behind with the wheels out to the gaurds

the only reason i have this idea is because i saw a 32 for sale on prestigemotorsport.com ages ago with the bolt on style flares, i think its in aus now and have seen pics of it but cant seem to find them, it had gold work meisters, looked hot

got my flares in the mail this morning, just slaped them on to see what they look like. i think they'll look tuff when done properly, what do you guys think? they are a universal type flare. the front one needs to be pulled in a bit more at the back, but they flex pretty easy and yes, i will get spacers/new wheels to fell them out

hey all, im looking into buying some bolt on style flares for my 32gtst, i have seen them on s13's and stuff but i cant find a place that sells them for r32's. any ideas? cheers, Nathan

ok, so where do i get me one for the s2 front?? that black car is hot

so that fits on a front bumper like mine? anyone got any pics of one of those lips on a car? heres some pics from a track day i done at symmons plains

SAU Nickname:tp1gts2 Car Make and Model: r32 gtst Circuit Name:symmons plains Lap time: 1.08.96 Modifications Engine: rb20 turbo back 3" and pod filter Power: no idea, little above stock?? Suspension: bilstien/whiteline Tyres: street tyres. pirelli dragons front, dodgy falkens on the back Brakes: stock, bendix ultimate pads Body weight: stock need more grunt, grip and stopping power

i had a pretty good day, didnt bust anything, stayed on the track aswell, so its all good started off in the 1.11's but by the end of the day i started to grow some balls and got it down to a 1.08.96 pretty happy with that. need more grunt, more grip and bigger brakes pics from the day here http://www.lcct.org.au/ClubDayPhotos16092007.htm

yay! looks like i will be entering this just changed engine, gearbox and diff oil, just about to flush the brake fluid and put some good stuff in and put some better brake pads in. anyone know it the fire extinguisher has to be tagged? i just got a 1kg one from bunnings with a metal bracket, will that be ok? see you out there!