Simon-S14

heres some pics

stock RB30E bottom end mate 635nm at the engine

still working on it. lowlights today - front oil seal let go. soaked clutch, started slipping on dyno. this was 2pm. remove box and clutch. take it down to ACS new pucks fitted and a clean up done. new oil seal. refitted and then refit the whole lot by 530pm.. dyno shuts around then also.. Asked cece from jaustech if we could use his however Steve from All Make Motors offered to stick around and let us finish the tune. this was done by 9pm. High points? 25psi runs on stock bottom end. and Launch control and 2m long flames. the results... 412 rwkw on 24psi MANY MANY thanks to Steve from AMMRR, Decs and Steve from Garage7, Craig, Aran, Bayden, Mitch and the guys from ACS for helping today

the red things are buttons to scroll through the dash since there are 4 pages. you can also use them to change brightness of dash and various other simple functions. the leb spec shift light can be set up to come up for any warning light. EG oil press, too hot etc. got it running last night... after a massive fuel leak. turns out the tank had a hole in it. So swapped a tank out of a 33 4 door and bolted that in... no 5 min job but had to be done. then we put fuel back in it and started the steps to get it running. lots of setting up and calibrating of sensors etc. then it fired straight up and settled into a dead smooth idle. warmed it up to 80 degrees using the pump on 30% flow, then we turned the fan on 100% and it dropped down to 55 degrees lol.

I already think it's amazing. Blows the haltech out of the water for features

heres some more pics of the wiring job

today we had the rad back out cause we found a leak in one of the end tanks. put it all back in and then bled it up. we vacuum filled it and that worked mint. in total it took an hour to fill and bleed and took 20L of coolant. we ran the EWP constantly while it was full and kept adding water in the funnel until no more air bubbles came out. EWP works mint and no cavitation was heard at all. the EWP is mounted lower then the bleed point. fuel system all done. hard lines from boot to fire wall with bulkhead fittings then braided line in engine bay to connect it all. clean. effective and out of harms way. nothing at all to get damaged on ripple strips etc. just means the cabin is getting awfully full haha

www.garage7.com.au

Get a link g4+ extreme. Far better ecu

got less then a week to finish this thing for Round 1 ADGP and its going to be an untested car/set up oh well see how it goes. anyway heres todays efforts... im wrecked. ive spent all my time either at work or working on the car, sleep is rare. mock up of fuse/relay panel.. then a power up to test all circuits.. passed with flying colours! made up swirl/fill pot for the rad, this is the highest point in cooling system, sealed off the floor holes epic switch panel! LEDs are green and have bright/dim circuit, interior light, etc heaps of neat touches

i cant take the credit.. Steve and Decs from Garage7 did it all.. its brlliant!

yeah plenty switches.. lots of functions haha Launch control anti lag cooler water spray oil accumulator wipers left right low beam high beam start/stop switch and 2 others i forget

seems no one cares for the build these days? oh well. heres the latest. Garage7 Designed Goodness!

updates! Wiring of switch panel and fuse/relay panel is underway! all parts designed by Garage7 and laser cut to suit! looks amazing! Shrouds for both sides of the radiator done.. fan attached and all sealed up.. it pulls a HUGE amount of air!

well not really.. your not going to have an air gap through the whole system. oil isnt compressible so it cant flow back or move back the length of your system due to the fact that again the oil pump cannot allow oil to flow backwards into the engine while running.

you do know that as flow goes dow pressure goes up. so that could explain your high pressure readings. i dont have flow charts of the valve but you can visually see that its smaller internally then say a moroso one or anything else on the market. doing a quick google for canton check valve restrictions returns plenty of complaints from users. who interestingly enough ditch the check valve all together. i might end up doing this with mine. at the end of the day the oil pump itself is a check valve. oil cannot flow back through the pump

the only think that will be a tell tale sign will be the cam angle sensor drive in the exhaust cam,. they are different between the series.

if you dont use a canton 1 way valve you'll be just fine.

been super busy, had a heap of time off work so spent last week and a half working on it each day getting a solid 8 hours + done each day. engine loom is all done and its Pro town! Done by Steve at Garage7 who was taught by Declan how to do it, Loom uses nylon sleeve with 3:1 glue lined heat shrink as the bulk of it. not a single bit of elec tape used haha. We also used quality Deutsch plugs (DT series connectors - google it) through out. Today we fired up the loom/ecu combo and made it all live, good to know everything works. a few hours were spent calibrating and configuring it all, so now when it comes time to crank it over it should in theory fire first crank. Body loom is yet to be done, Decs from Garage7 has designed a laser cut switch panel which is very aviation style and mounted on the roof just behind the front cage tube with all the switches, push start and so forth. the cool thing with the Link g4+ is you can use one button to start and stop the engine. just push it and it primes the pump, cranks the engine until it fires and then keeps it running. push again to kill it. just like a lot of new cars these days! also spent time mounting the GKtech hydro handbrake, tomorrow i'll make some custom brake lines up for the rear brakes and then all that is left is fuel lines and coolant lines + shrouding of the rear rad. all of which is being laser cut atm.

yep. and it works mint as a pre lube device also.. mine gives about 50-60 psi once opened before even turning engine over

theres no need to worry about cold oil dumping into engine.. i can assure you that during engine operation that hot oil makes its way back to the accumulator. mine has been running mint. used just the manual ball valve mounted it behind drivers seat with braided line running through the cabin, however on the new shell i now have mounted in engine bay and using an elec solenoid.