Simon-S14

sounds good huddster, tandems might be the order of the day then

ey, its got the GTST sized hole

it acctually weakens the chassis also... just because you see it done in japanese tuning mags doesnt make it a good thing! either spot weld it or leave it alone

cant find one cheap tho... thats the prob, i dont want a genuine one but rather a copy will do, but i cant seem to find any copies that acctually have the full sized GTR intercooler opening... a few that ive seen lately only have stock GTST bar sized hole.

personally i say if your not happy with the job done, and you paid good money for it, your entitled to have your say and /or go back to the place and demand they fix things (providing its their error) but hey its your call

oh yes you can

34 is prob diff to the 32 bar so no real comparison, good to hear its hassle free tho! Lows 13: piece of cake... the rear bar is perfect

its got a lot to do with the leading upper arm adjustments and getting both the camber, toe and length of the upper arm right to get the desired effect. then theres spring rate, damper settings and getting the sway bar right. i think its near spot on, i will be testing it at mallala in a few weeks.. if it works i'll let you know )

nissan gen is a mighty find product that lasts well over 100K, so why pay more for something else that does the same job? Timing belts dont break from excessive power or rev's... they break due to age/mechanical failure

nah it didnt and yeah your right, they make a huge diff, but it doesnt stop there. to get the most grip you need to change the traction rods, camber arms, toe adjustors and swaybars and set them all up properly for them to work

better susp set up and better parts is what it boils down to!

battery? check the terminals on the battery, and check if the battery has voltage,

220-230 rwkw

3500? fark thats expensive for the job done...

so im not the only one by the looks... great quality whiteline kit... not... im less then impressed with the front bar over all./

update: still doing it, checked lots of things, also it dies the minute i touch the throttle too...

i'll give it a go then

Got bored so i put the kit on lol, along with the Rays wheels. They are Rays LM GT2's in 17X9 all round, the rears have some crazy 255/40 rubber on them atm.. tad wide! Just need a front bar now

not sure of actual CFM but the fan stops increasing in speed at approx 4000rpm as this is the max rated speed, and the clutch does it job from there on. I have fitted my clutch fan back in, and because of the cooler pip[e i had to trim down the blades, Used a large file on the edges with the motor running, then the pipe did the rest, theres acctually quite a fair bit trimmed off the outer edge now... Im guessing as a result im going to be sacrificing some of the maximum rated airflow...Ive kept the thermo fan on the front of the rad... just in case i spose.

ibve done that also... several times now but yeah, the diff prob is tight, however rest assured its a good thing, and on higher speed corners etc ect it will be an awesome thing. So put up with some low speed jerkyness for some high speed fun

thought of all that and ive looked at the ignition wiring and none of it appears to have been spliced into at any stage, handbrake and clutch dont make it stop either so that rules that out. would the actual ignition switch cause this?

there are no R200 1 ways... no such thing. a Two way lsd will clunk when loaded up, that means accel on sharp turns if you back off and coast through or in neutral. it wont load the clutch plates up enough to lock them, so no clunking. perfectally normal behavior for a 2 way.

i should make it clear that there is no turbo timer in the car at all.. which makes it all that weirder...

Ive got a very weird problem that started happening over a few weeks, and would only do it here and there now it does it 9 times out of 10 and its getting to be very annoying. Basically my car wont stop running when i turn the ignition off... When i switch the key off and take it out all the dash lights go out, the clock dims, the stereo turns off etc but the motor keeps running... it acctually drops slightly in RPM but doesnt stop. A few times i have switched the key back and forward from off to on and the motor will stop.. but lately it just wont stop no matter how many times i jiggle the switch.. i basically have to put it in 5th and stall it to kill it. Seems weird to me that the switch is powering everything off... except the motor/ecu etc. FWIW i have done the fuel pump rewire mod running a power wire from the battery and a relay which is switchable from the existing fuel pump wiring... my turning off problem isnt related to this tho as it started doing it before i did the rewire mod. Plus ive wired it up properly on the relay So yeah.. what could it be??

k mang, price me up a GTR or FK front bar. cheers!