Simon-S14

dont know.. as no other coils would work haha. best part was the MSD blasters are 70 each (need 3, run wasted) plus a set of custom leads and an ignitor. strongest spark ever

i made 360 rwkw on a neo rb25 with yellowjackets and plugs gapped at 0.8mm running e85. have heard of others not having such luck with them. same goes for splitfires.. success stories and dramas everywhere. my motor now runs MSD blaster coils... the spark these babies throw off is nothing short of frightening

25 sump has two windage walls on the back of the sump. needs to be ground to clear the crank. other then that its the same. block off the front feed and put a 1.5mm restrictor in the rear. run the VCT feed as per the guide but make sure that it also has restrictor. i just shimmed the 30E pump

Junk

to be honest i wouldnt even bother doing rings and bearings if the rb30 you have is a good condition running engine. for example.. my rb26/30 is stock as a rock only things i have done is oil restrictors, shimmed up oil pump and rb25 sump. MLS headgasket and ARP studs hold it all together. i make 395 rwkw and the car is a drift car and has been going for ages like that. running e85 and 35R turbo.

could i get some advice on if mine is correct? as per pic... swirl pot one has a blank cap on it and has 3 bleeder lines from coolant rail. the red hose goes to the top of the radiator outlet and the cap is blank off, the blue line goes to a 2nd swirl pot canister from the top of the swirl pot. Shown in purple is a 10mm hose half way up the canister which is joined to the bottom radiator hose. the 2nd canister has a 1.1 bar pressure cap with a pipe going to over flow. feedback appreciated

couple of videos

must have been a bad coincidence or something mate. no issues with my garret since running this stuff.

heres mine... some feedback would be good. it seems to work well, Car still gets hot after multiple hard laps but does not boil. cap on rad and swirl pot are not pressure caps. the canister at the back of the engine is the highest part of the cooling system and has pressure cap on it. 3x fittings welded onto the rb26 coolant rail to remove any localised boiling points. bottom of swirl pot goes to top of the radiator tank.. so the idea is to remove any air bubbles.

lol, throws a rod out the block... which can be checked via quick check under the bonnet. but posts thread on SAu first asking for advice

i dont know the exact science behind it but its a anti friction compound with a host of other things to prevent wear under demanding conditions. maybe someone else can shed some light? im in no way endorsed by the company... just sharing my experiences with the product

what do you mean how does it work? you pour it in with your oil. its an additive. makes oil go a weird grey colour,

i also run this with my oil.. mainly cause i get it cheap and ive heard some fantastic things from it. have been running my stock bottom end RB30e with 26 head and supporting mods pushing 400 rwkw for a year now, its a competition drift car so loads of sustained rpm. I had the motor out recently to do rear main and few other seals and i pulled the sump off to chuck a washer in the stock oil pump spring to bump the pressure up a bit and while i was at it i checked a couple of bearings. they were mirror finish perfect pretty much so i figure the oil + additive must be doing something right!

ive been using Anglomoil RM500 for the last few years in my road and track cars. its aust made, cheaper then most alternatives, has an SN rating and is approved for use with e85. its brilliant stuff

Npc 10 inch carbotic with sprung Centre is very easy to drive and handle way more then that power

R34 bush is same as rb20 so you can just use a 20 shifter even

Do a compression test and see how high they come up?

sadly there would be no room for that..

box is all good.. got it checked over. Shifter Mechanisum has 2 spings.. one dislodged and got jammed in the shifter preventing it from selecting 1st and 3rd properly.

got the box checked over.. its all sweet. bring on the sequential shifter

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Brand-NEW-Jerico-4-speed-trasnmission-nascar-arca-late-model-tex-g-force-/251212701093?pt=Race_Car_Parts&hash=item3a7d719da5&vxp=mtr

yeah i just pulled it out then. wasnt the box.. its the shitty hurst shifter i borrowed.. sping came out and jammed the shifter up

dunno yet but wont change into 1st or 3rd easily.. may have bent selector rod/linkage.. wont know til i pull it apart