Simon-S14

Hey Jimmy The Final Konnextion kit looks like this no idea where you can get them from tho... my fronmt bar is smashed, so i was just going to get a GTR Copy, theres several people selling copies to suit a 32 gtst on forums etc. , they are about $350 ish

yeah there we go, he prob needs it more then i do Brenton: i might be interested in bits off your dead motor if u end up buying phils package

Hey kids.. thought i'd show people what ive been up too, I got Toffy's old 32 4 door from tassie, it came with apexi coilovers, some mesh rims, final konnextion kit with mashed bar, Rb25 turbo, cooler exhaust and so on. Was a nice basic set up and the RB20 is in pretty good cond. So far i have been focusing on the suspension side of things to make the car handle and grip FAR better then my cefiro did on the track, and it works! Heres the lowdown. -Brand new HSD coilovers with 8kg fronts and 5kg rears -Whiteline Swaybars all round, 27mm front and 24mm rear both adjustable -Drift shop rear camber arms and rear traction rods -Alloy pineapples -Hicas lock bar Motor wise i have since ripped out the radiator that was in the car and fitted an RB25 rad, and put the stock shroud and thermo on as i had a few temp issues at a warm mallala prac night. I have since chucked on -Highflow RB25 turbo with stage 3 wheel -remapped ECU by Jeff from the Speed Lab Dyno'ed at 205 rwkw on 15psi boost, comes on a lot better and makes more torque (slightly) then the KKR i used to have, i just need some GTR injectors to crank 230 rwkw. Just got some new rims too, 2X Drift R's in 17X8 with awesome offset no spacers needed 4X Rays GT LM2's in 17X9 with +13 ish offset, currently has 255 rubber on them as they came off a GTR/ so they only on the back atm. Whats the car like to drive? Awesome.. it grips so well. you can really put the power down hard through the corners and it just grips, Out at mallala its awesome to drift also as the car has a lot of grip mid corner, where as my Ceffy just squatted down and span up, With good 235's on the back of my car it wont spin up 1st off the line at all, where as the ceffy would spin 1st, 2nd and 3rd lol. Now that the car is set up, i'll be giving it a respray (same colour, just a fresh coat) with GTR front bar and the FK skirts and rear bar. Should be hot. defo needs a respray now... i have a black rear right door after a sideways incident into a wooden reflector post... Some pics for now.

u get the rims this time? should be good man, cant wait to see it in action

Yeah my ceffy came from Afro who inturn got it straight from japan. Toffy's old car, the 32 4 door, is inarks old car.

you put an SR in your car and im coming to Horsham to bitchslap you into next week mate! swap a 1J into it!

yeah this doesnt sound normal for a stock skyline. Ive got a large highflowed turbo on my baby RB20det and it does what you discribe, however only if i change gears at a normal pace, if i change slightly quicker it just stays spooling and pulls hard straight away, So i find it strange that a stock turbo has that moment of lag... check pipes, all hose clamps and so forth

and off topic on that note is that is the reason why a lot of 70's and 80's japanese cars are rusty as all fark.. During that Era BHP sold some seriously substanded steel to japan, who intern made cars and sent them back to aust

thats right, its a common misconception that solid bars are better. Hollows have more resistance to twisting then solids. But yes, as salad said they are bloody expensive for what they are. This is why GTR bars are such a good upgrade for the money, they are hollows and work really well.

rear is 16mm i think and the front is 18mm could be wrong but either way they are thin as

i'd recommend the 24mm blade adjustable for the rear tho! its awesome front is undecided

you're going to have to drain it, just jack the front up onto stands, and drain it from the rad into a nice clean bucket or something similar, let it drain then unbolt the lines etc off the turbo, when you've got the new one bolted up just pour the coolant back in

After the paint code, which part of the plate is the code? Cheers all Simon

either way, the figures are all even and close to each other, so im sure its fine

i assume your drifting the car, since your a mate of salad's, then lowering the rear damper will give you more rear grip, and more corner speed. stiffening everything up to make it break traction at the drop of the hat is not a good way to set up a car

try lowering your spring rates and backing off the damper settings for the back and the car might grip some more

ive goit a set of Volk Stich rims for sale, all with centre caps, In good cond, one rim has gutter rash but nothing a rim repairer cant fix cheaply 17X9 with brand new Antyre's on them 225/45/17 on the front and 235/45/17 on rear pair. Not sure about offset sorry, the stickers on the insides have worn off, at a guess it would be around +35, only a guess tho. Price $1000 with rubber Price is firm, In SA prefer to sell locally, but can ship at buyers expense. PM or email on [email protected]

if your talking about the JJR rear arms, they do far from a good job, they are weak and utter crap, the welds have bugger all penetration and the fact that mine both failed within a 1-2 km drive around the block means there is no way in hell they would last on a daily driven road car. I went and bought some quality arms with motorsport quality rosejointsm, sure i paid more but at least they will (and have) hold together.

yup i bought a set, installed them in the car, drove around the block and then jacked car up to double check tightness of everything and what do ya know... BOTH arms had cracked their welds. demanded my money back and vowed never ever to buy another just jap product

SK: acctually the pics were taken with the susp at ride height, i had a trolly jack under each LCA (you can see one in the bottom LH corner of the 2nd pic) jacking the susp right up until it was off the axle stand. DJR: wish mine were that simple

lol ball ache. yes i had that X 2 tried opening the saddles... to the point where the bolt holes wouldnt line up and the damn thing still wouldnt fit with the bar in it. I think i got the wrong bushes plain and simple. question is. are the links suppose to come with the kit or is that extra? The rears came with links and they work a treat! It would be pretty average if i had to pay extra for links-

hey huddy, common misconception about the preload there. an 8kg spring wound up 1mm or 100mm on preload is still an 8kg spring, as it takes the same amount og force to move it 1mm or 100 mm. the rate of the spring does not change. All its for is as you said, keeping it captive.

Hey all. I bought a 27mm front sway bar from SK as part of the group buy, had a lot of drama's putting it in since the bushes supplied didnt fit the bar so i had to use the stock bushes. I mounted the bar up on the medium setting and i have found it to be too stiff, so now i want to put it on the softest setting and its bloody hard to get the pin in there since the pin and the blade aree now at extreme angles. took me around an hour and several pry bars to get the pin in.. this is with the wheel off and a jack under the LCA on both sides to take the weight off the bar itself. in fact i tried several different ways and its all too bloody hard. pics see what i mean... is this right? cause it doesnt look right to me. Whats the go On the hardest setting on the swaybar the pin is vertical

I have a Automatic radiator out of a low Km car in great cond for sale, Also i have a single large thermo fan with mounting bolts and so on to go with it. I bought the rad to put in my R32, it doesnt fit, so no use to me now! Price $150 for both rad and thermo or $80 for just the rad. Email [email protected] or pm me

As per thread title.. i need a rad urgent! Cheers Simon