Simon-S14

basically you'll need to buy a new flying loom once you have that its a matter of starting from scratch, working out where the ecu will be mounted and running the lengths of wires to their correct locations and then cut, crimp new terminals and plugs on and wrap it all up in quality conduit/sheathing. try and avoid soldering anything... everything must be crimped, checked and then heatshrinked then wrapped make sure loom is not tight in any spots, allow for engine flex, and keep it well away from heat. you'll need an array of wiring equiptment, crimpers, cutters, strippers, heatshrink, conduit etc or just pay decs to do it

box bolts up to bellhousing spot on... measurements were perfect! however it seems dellow have stuffed up in another way.. the input shaft doesnt protrude far enough out.. i measured it and compared to to a stock Rb box and its quite the difference in this shot you can see the bolts up top and dowel holes line up.. but starter motor and bottom bolts do not. Flat edge is bell housing face.. this is RB20 input shaft protrusion from the face 18mm distance to start of spline from bellhousing face RB20 box total length of spline, from bell housing face on jerico box distance input shaft spigot area is away from bellhousing face Splne begining measurement from face

Set it up for grip regardless of what the car is used for. Really only works on R32/S13 sub frames

oh i will be... but they are shut arent they man i hate this time of the year

well got my new bellhousing and thought i'd test fit... what do you know.. it doesnt fit correctly!

nothing killed it as such but it didnt quite have the punch as the neo rb25 had (less compression) so i just went straight to a 30/26 thanks for reading

is it? boost doesnt kill engines... mercury motorsports run 40psi thro their stock rb26 lol

i wont get that done in time for australia day drifts so sticking with the traditional set up until then

check out GKtech.com.au its suppose to flow 60% more air then a stock RB25 fan.. should be good!

some goodies rocked up

its actually 65psi for the single spring and 120 psi for dual.

More info

its always block the rear. if vct then leave the front, 1.5 or 1.3 middle (depending on use and rpm range plus pump ) then block rear

block the rear and run 1x1.3

lots of these types of camera's struggle with sound quality when out side a car on a race track. the ion is much better then the gopro for sound, but similar for video quality. how ever gopro can be solved by lining the case with a tissue

Its certainly worthy of consideration that's for sure! garage 7 is working on a sequential shifter kit for it which should be awesome to use hopefully

using a hydralic release bearing also but still using my NPC clutch but with different spline on the disk. should be fairly straight forward

over 200 ratios to choose from.. and you can swap the ratios easy as. the boxes are so simple to work on and the gears are not welded to the shaft like an OEM gearbox. they are able to be seperated. the ratgios of mine can be seen in texta here. Still waiting on bits and pieces to arrive for the gearbox, Dellow are making a bellhousing for it, getting a thrusbearing made up as well as a spigot bush. also bought a 36r with .82 rear housing for it too.. so should be wicked to drive next year!

to answer your question its as simple as removing the VCt gear and cam and putting new cam in along with the new cam gear. no welding required. as for the solenoid, you coild just fit a bung i guess

http://www.iontheaction.com.au/

Head work in general isn't need for that power level

Check out ion the action camera. Impressive features

they are not all that popular to swap mainly due to the size. they really do take up a lot of space. the gtr gearsets however fit in the rb25 case no worries.. so that makes them cheaper then another 25 box if you break one

Cause its so freaking massive