Simon-S14

haha nah, its my spare room, IE man cave, got my pc, tropheys, car parts and a crash bed for when we have guests or the wife is pissed at me lol

Haha all of the goodies

Got my gearbox... now to make it fit :S heres some shots last pic is a comparison between jerico and TTI input shafts, tti on the right

Nothing wrong with the pistons. E85 ams large rear housing on a decent turbo is the only way you can do it safely

i dont know how you figured that, i told you in the PM you sent me that she was a stocker. head is stock, just cleaned up, skimmed, then serviced. however its badly in need of reshimming atm cause its a bit ticky in the top end.

rb30 26 head 3582r .82 rear

yeah restrictors are plug inserts, you knock the stock ones down with a punch. head needs to be tapped and screwed. easy to do. do this then clean the head and get it skimmed and then clean again.

7400

i'd believe it! mines stock bottom end, un touched. and been going 2 years with drift abuse (a lot harder on engines then drag racing) plus circuit work. with 425rwkw. rb30's are so underestimated in stock form

oh and when putting head on block it doesnt hurt to put the block at TDC and then go back 20-30 degrees so that all cylns are below deck height, that way zero risk of contact with valves, then dial the cams to their spots then move crank back to TDC then time up

do you didn't strip down the block then? if so good factory nissan FTW, so many people pull perfectly good motors for a freshen up only to have it fail within 10K kms a single 1.2mm will be a bit too small. the 1.5 single feed is find for solid lifters. works well in mine with 26 head and sees limiter and no oil issues. dont need timing marks on belt. you will need two tensioners to time it properly tho. just line up TDC on crank, and line the cams up with their marks and then tension it up correctly ensuring the marks stay the same.

im a bit late to the party but my advice would be to leave the known good condition bottom end alone and just do the following. -block rear feed, fit 1.5 mm to the front, plumb up external VCT feed -increase the oil pressure using 2xm6 washers on the pressure relief spring, reseal the sump - clean the deck and get the head skimmed, dont weld the vct fitting, just grub screw and loktite it. -ARP studs and mls gasket -bolt it all together, do the two timing tensioner method.

you'll strip the teeth in 3rd gear well before you destroy that output shaft

You can covert the 34 box to run push easy as

It's normal. The tail shaft never goes all the way in

How many of you have actually tested your coolers performance?

Yes

425 rwkw with a china core here, 600x300x76 also have air temp sensor straight out of the turbo outlet as well as OEM one in rb26 manifold. can compare the two, have seen a peak of 150deg C out the turbo with 40deg going into the engine at the same time. the core works

sure you can... its just a lot harder haha. not worth it unless taking motor out tho

its easy as... drop the sump, then undo the large pressure relief valve nut, inside is a spring and a ball bearing. leave them there, then get 2xm6 flat washers (i used spring washers and then bent them in vice to become flat) and place 2 of them on top of the spring and then refit the cap. reseal the sump. should get an extra 20psi out of it.

Yeah something around 150. Even mine now with 26 head and near 2 years of thrashing makes over 150psi on all 6

the whole reason that mine is so reliable is because i left it alone. dont f**k with it and it will work.. dont change bearings or rings for a freshen up.. just get a good cond running engine that you know works, pull it out of a 31, put a head on it with quality parts and support systems and it will serve you well

bit of an update, After sydney ADGP round i was left with a fair bit of damage suspension wise and the turbo also is on the way out. what a bummer cause during all this i was in the process of buying a new gearbox since i had sold the Jerico 4 speed Nascar box. I ran that for ADGP but then ripped it out as soon as i got home. I now have bought one of these babies! TTI 4 speed straight cut dog engagement sequential! flat shifts come at me! Now onto the suspension damage... i managed to break a fair bit of stuff during a wheel on wheel contact with Rob Whyte managed to break the knuckle in 3 pieces along with the coilover and the rim. So i need a new set of knuckles. Have decided that i will probably go back to a cut and shut knuckle and take spares with me as its much simplier from a parts replacability point of view. turbo is also noisy so i'll prob steer clear of the Garretts since they have not been too relable for me, will prob go with a Kando t67 25g! this is how car sits atm and heres some various pics of it in action Oh and i also did G1 few weeks ago. and i sucked, mainly cause i was in the Garage7 missile which is a battle car not a competition car and mallala just doesnt allow for low powered cars to keep up. that didnt stop me from doing some backies and putting on a show! Took my sponsor/tuner/mate Declan co-owner of garage7 for a drive and he loved it. that was enough for me to make the day worth it haha

20/25 ecu will all plug and power up as they have near identical pin outs

yes sorry thats what i meant a TD06SL2 25g, which as you said pretty much is a t67, although there was some differences wasnt there?