Simon-S14

R12 is 800 + a kg lol and really is an awesome refrigerant but pity it's so toxic

never been able to or hear of anyone get the ODO working.

Yeah sorry my bad I realised that after posting lol. Easy solution is to use a Silvia speedo drive and use the signal from that

No don't shave or Deck. The cr gains is minimal

What people done realise is that there is very little available meat on the clutch that wears. The difference between New and worn is about 0.8 to 1mm. So any driving that slips the clutch wears it at a rapid rate. This includes people who can't use a clutch Properly and slip off the lights etc. Pull it out and measure the wear. Might be able to get away with just replacing the disk

Crack the nipple and push it back in. Bolt it up and then re bleed clutch

Yeah assuming cable is working on the 32 then the electronic input to ecu from dash is fine for reference

vehicle speed sensor.. so whatever the OEM input is generally.

some good info here.. lots of people have had issues and had to find solutions their own way. there isnt enough support or available trouble shooting information on these

Iq3 isnt made by haltech, common misconception. and after using iq3's for a while now (i have one) ive come to the conclusion that there are better dashes on the market out there. The IQ3 software is total junk, not to mention that if you want to connect it to any ecu you need an expensive interface cable (about 400) to convert can to serial.. this is 2013 (about to be 2014) and these dashes are still using serial ffs. there is a total lack of customer support from Racepak, they dont even have a phone number, if your lucky they might reply to your email. you'll get more support from their forum from other frustrated users then you will from the company. i orginally had a haltech ECu and a haltech badged IQ3, haltech bought a stack of them in and put their own hardware and firmware in the dash to make it plug and play with each other. which is sweet, however i changed to a Link g4 and the dash would not work at all due to the fact you cannot change or delete the haltech firmware on the dash. So i sold the dash and bought a iq3 straight from racepak along with an interface cable. after MANY issues, none of which were solved by Racepack, we got it working. however not without issues, EG cant have dash and laptop plugged into the ecu at the same time.. annoying. as for better options, the mxl aim sport is the way to go http://www.aimsports.com/products/mxl-chooser.html Its about $1195 aud, has australian support, can do true CAN bus,and you can even configure PWM outputs to control a fan or pump etc... just incase you run out of outputs from your ecu.

reliability isnt an issue... very strong motors but the tune needs to be spot on . my set up when i was running an internally stock neo for drift was making 360 rwkw all day every day. it was as follows 3076 with .6 rear 850cc injectors nistune r34 ecu Garage 7 highmount manifold stock intake plenumn 3 inch exhaust FMIC twin 044 with stock rail modded for twin entry E85 360rwkw on 18psi, very responsive also. would be perfect for street

could have air in the system still. you'll need to rebleed it and see how it goes.

I'm keen

Those egts seem very high gtsboy

My mate tows with his turbo 30 often. It's so effortlessly easy. Stock motor 25 turbo Injectors to suit Z32 afm Tuned ecu. Runs a megasquirt so has flex fuel and runs both e85 and pulp. Makes 220 rwkw and plenty of torque

couple of short clips

Its expensive cause its all made from quality gear. Keep in mind that you get new tie rods and ends with it. It increases your track and camber also as well as increasing lock and improving roll Centre. So you can't compare them to cut and shuts. I've driven the development car with these knuckles and its unreal also

for what its worth i run 2x 044 as mains with a walbro lift, fuel circulates at constant voltage to the pump. i also have fuel pressure sensors and temp sensor in rail and surge tank... never see fuel temp rise above 35 degrees max with e85, no fuel cooler

realistically the OEM fuel pump speed is on/off by nature... at idle and low rpm its spinning at a lower speed then as soon as it gets over a set rpm it ramps up to a higher voltage. This is what i would be setting up with the after market pump...

reasonably normal for a diff that hasn't been serviced regularly

Hey guys thought i'd share this video with you that we made! Was lucky enough to be let loose on an airport haha

have had overboosting issues lately when running high boost mode (22 psi normally) has been hitting map limit (26psi) and then ecu protecting but cutting (Link G4 plus) boost is fine on low boost. so anyway i thought i better pull the Tial 44mm gate i have down and check over it. turns out.. its got a hole in it, cause by an assembly error from factory. the diaphragm has been pinched where the cap seals and as a result of it being run like that for 3 years (thats how old it is) has moulded the rubber together.. and caused a hole just below it.! quality stuff. So can i get replacement Diaphrams somewhere? also i noticed the valve is quite loose in the valve guide.. can this be replaced also? or is it time for a new one.

another plus 1 for finding another stock block in good condition and leaving it alone. 412 rwkw on 24 psi with stock pistons here. cops a thrashing

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=u5npbDb5GuQ&feature=youtu.be