who's next

Good day, i need some info. I have an RB20det that came out of a R32 GTS-T skyline and i wanted to know if other rb20det ecus are the same. the reason i am asking is that i am about to install a nistune chip and just in case it goes wrong i wanted to know ho easy it would be to get a replacement ecu. i was told that the rb20s from other nissan cars were detuned a bit. is there a way to tell the r32 ecu from an A31 or c33 etc? Thanks Roger

update, i changed the o2 sensor with one i had from a RB20 non-turbo and guess what she runs really good, so it looks like it was a bad o2 sensor was at the heart of my problem. i would look for a new one to replace it. thanks for all your help i really appreciated it. Roger

update changed out the pipe with the bov and same issue. :-( would keep at it

well i mean replacing the pipe with the bov

Thanks i would try blanking it and see if it helps, also changed the AFM and it really did not help that much i would work on it next weekend. would update. thanks again

I have a blitz bov vented to the atmosphere.

Still searching would keep you guys posted

Good evening, I need some help, About 1yr ago i did a complete conversion on my cefiro using a gtst front cut. from the start i had an idle issue but only when mashing the brakes to slow down, this would become worse when the ac was on, to the point where it would cut off. lately (march) it started to get worse even when the ac was not on. i did searches and i have cleaned the idle control valve, the maf sensor, plugs are approximately 1yr old. in April i changed the turbo and installed a t3/t4 with a top-mount manifold and also a front mount intercooler. the original problem was never solved but i have seen a steady progression and it is getting worse, even with no AC. here are the new symptoms. Starts up good, when the car gets warm the engine starts to search, drops to 3k rpms and lower and then pick back up and so it goes until it would cut off. under acceleration the car works perfect, plus real hard at 12psi, air/fuel shows up as 12 to 13, no sputtering etc. when it is back down to idle it feels like it is going to cut off and then it does, only way to avoid it is if i mash the gas and then it catches itself and idles at 800 rpm until it start to search again. i have noticed that on the wide band that i have it goes from 18 to 22.4 when it searches. i changed the idle control valve (the original one had a spring in it the used one i bought does not) but i got the same issue. idle nice when it starts and as soon as it gets warm it starts to search. any help would be greatly appreciated. thanks Roger

Thanks i just did and changed them back on track . thanks again

Ok i was work on two projects at the same time and in a splir second i made a really careless mistake, i disconnected my battery and in a rush to connect it back i ended up putting the wrong wires to the wrong poll. now i dont have any lights on the dashboard when the ignition switch is turned on. i check the fuses and all looks ok. Any ideas, i know this might be a costly mistake. Any suggestions would be really appreciated.

Cool man well good luck with it

what i did with my conversion is that i bought a r32 front cut and moved over everything except the shocks and spring as that set up is different to the cefiro. steering rack & lines, all AC parts front cross member, lower control arms etc. most of it fitted with very little mods if any at all. like the brake lines needed to change (just the ends) as they were sligtly different. the ac lines run a little different to the front but any they work back. like i said for the most part it is bolt for bolt but there are some exceptions but these are easy to adjust. the brakes and cluth pedals also work back. the most trouble some part of the build was to make up the brackets to hold the handbrakes and fit the r32 center consol (to work the handbrakes) also i changed the instrument pannel that 2 was trial and error cutting till it fitted. the other set of work is the geabox bracket needs to be modified. what i did was i had and extra engine bracket. the holes line up exact with the gearbox holes, so it was just a matter of cutting and welding them on to the gearbox bracket. So far its going good no issues. i have lots of pics with the build so i would try to put them up or a link to them. good luck

I used the R32 diff, bolts right up, hand brakes, brake lines etc were easy to work back. the only real work was on the driveshaft, one of the ends needed to be removed from the a31 shaft and replaced with the r32 end as the size was different, that was because i went from auto to manual. also when using the a31 shaft (2nd half) to switch the end with the r32, maintain the same length don't shorten it hope this helps

quick question, the ac compressor on the det has two jacks, i noticed that the electrician only used one and basically he just jacked back in the one for the original harness (rb20 single cam) could it be possible that both jacks needed to be hooked up? is it necessary, when i asked he said no. could this have caused the compressor to go bad and keep blowing the fuse? Thanks roger

Thanks for the input, trust me i would not use a bigger fuse as that = potential fire. i would recheck the wiring then swap the compressor thanks again would update when i sorted it out