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Good day, i need some info. I have an RB20det that came out of a R32 GTS-T skyline and i wanted to know if other rb20det ecus are the same. the reason i am asking is that i am about to install a nistune chip and just in case it goes wrong i wanted to know ho easy it would be to get a replacement ecu. i was told that the rb20s from other nissan cars were detuned a bit. is there a way to tell the r32 ecu from an A31 or c33 etc? Thanks Roger

update, i changed the o2 sensor with one i had from a RB20 non-turbo and guess what she runs really good, so it looks like it was a bad o2 sensor was at the heart of my problem. i would look for a new one to replace it. thanks for all your help i really appreciated it. Roger

update changed out the pipe with the bov and same issue. :-( would keep at it

well i mean replacing the pipe with the bov

Thanks i would try blanking it and see if it helps, also changed the AFM and it really did not help that much i would work on it next weekend. would update. thanks again

I have a blitz bov vented to the atmosphere.

Still searching would keep you guys posted

Good evening, I need some help, About 1yr ago i did a complete conversion on my cefiro using a gtst front cut. from the start i had an idle issue but only when mashing the brakes to slow down, this would become worse when the ac was on, to the point where it would cut off. lately (march) it started to get worse even when the ac was not on. i did searches and i have cleaned the idle control valve, the maf sensor, plugs are approximately 1yr old. in April i changed the turbo and installed a t3/t4 with a top-mount manifold and also a front mount intercooler. the original problem was never solved but i have seen a steady progression and it is getting worse, even with no AC. here are the new symptoms. Starts up good, when the car gets warm the engine starts to search, drops to 3k rpms and lower and then pick back up and so it goes until it would cut off. under acceleration the car works perfect, plus real hard at 12psi, air/fuel shows up as 12 to 13, no sputtering etc. when it is back down to idle it feels like it is going to cut off and then it does, only way to avoid it is if i mash the gas and then it catches itself and idles at 800 rpm until it start to search again. i have noticed that on the wide band that i have it goes from 18 to 22.4 when it searches. i changed the idle control valve (the original one had a spring in it the used one i bought does not) but i got the same issue. idle nice when it starts and as soon as it gets warm it starts to search. any help would be greatly appreciated. thanks Roger

Thanks i just did and changed them back on track . thanks again

Ok i was work on two projects at the same time and in a splir second i made a really careless mistake, i disconnected my battery and in a rush to connect it back i ended up putting the wrong wires to the wrong poll. now i dont have any lights on the dashboard when the ignition switch is turned on. i check the fuses and all looks ok. Any ideas, i know this might be a costly mistake. Any suggestions would be really appreciated.

Cool man well good luck with it

what i did with my conversion is that i bought a r32 front cut and moved over everything except the shocks and spring as that set up is different to the cefiro. steering rack & lines, all AC parts front cross member, lower control arms etc. most of it fitted with very little mods if any at all. like the brake lines needed to change (just the ends) as they were sligtly different. the ac lines run a little different to the front but any they work back. like i said for the most part it is bolt for bolt but there are some exceptions but these are easy to adjust. the brakes and cluth pedals also work back. the most trouble some part of the build was to make up the brackets to hold the handbrakes and fit the r32 center consol (to work the handbrakes) also i changed the instrument pannel that 2 was trial and error cutting till it fitted. the other set of work is the geabox bracket needs to be modified. what i did was i had and extra engine bracket. the holes line up exact with the gearbox holes, so it was just a matter of cutting and welding them on to the gearbox bracket. So far its going good no issues. i have lots of pics with the build so i would try to put them up or a link to them. good luck

I used the R32 diff, bolts right up, hand brakes, brake lines etc were easy to work back. the only real work was on the driveshaft, one of the ends needed to be removed from the a31 shaft and replaced with the r32 end as the size was different, that was because i went from auto to manual. also when using the a31 shaft (2nd half) to switch the end with the r32, maintain the same length don't shorten it hope this helps

quick question, the ac compressor on the det has two jacks, i noticed that the electrician only used one and basically he just jacked back in the one for the original harness (rb20 single cam) could it be possible that both jacks needed to be hooked up? is it necessary, when i asked he said no. could this have caused the compressor to go bad and keep blowing the fuse? Thanks roger

Thanks for the input, trust me i would not use a bigger fuse as that = potential fire. i would recheck the wiring then swap the compressor thanks again would update when i sorted it out

i would have a look again. if any other ideas/solutions come up let me know thanks

Good morning, i need some advice, i recently got the system vacuumed and gassed (with the new gas as i was told they no longer make the one that originally came with the car). i have not used it that much as i had an issue with the idle on the car, that has since been sorted out. the other day i was using it and found that it was not blowing cold, did some checks and saw that the fuse was gone, changed it and as soon as i switched it on the fuse was blown again. changed it and disconnected the current to the compressor and used a tester the light remained on and the fuse was good. so i plugged back the current to the compressor and the fuse blew. So i know it is the compressor is the cause. so i have a few questions. ps. the compressor wheel spins freely 1. could the use of this "new gas" caused this 2. is it that the electrical components in the compressor need replacing (is this possible like an alternator) or do i need to buy a complete compressor and replace. some other information. it is a complete R32 gts swap that was done on the cefiro, the fuse being used is 10amp thanks Roger

ok new updat same problem, just not as bad. so i would try changing out the idle control valve.

next update, i cleaned the throttle body and so far it is working good. would continue to use for the rest of the day and see what happens would update by Friday

quick update, i replaced the r32 booster with a r33 one, same problem, i even put back the original booster that came with the cefiro and same issue. so i think i could rule out this option. this weekend i change plugs, cleaned the maf and the idle control valve, changed a vacuum hose by the throttle body that was looking cracked. car started up and was working good, then after it warmed up same issue at idle it is searching then when you drive it and come to a stop it drops to about 100rpm and then picks back up and begins to search again. one of the plugs (no. 5) looked a little rusted like if water settled on the top but it was burning good. could it be possible that water also affected the coil pack? if so would it only when the engine warms up. i have an extra set from the rb20de would this work? is it the same coil pack? i also dont think it is the check valve by the booster as when i was about to swap the r32 for the r33 and i pulled the hose you actually heard the air escaping so to me it means it was functioning correctly. any ideas? would a bad maf do this? thanks roger

Thanks for the info. i had on 300z rotors and callipers before the engine swap, i did not use the r32 master as it had only two lines coming out of it and mine had 3 but the car was down for a few years so it is possible that the rubbers in the cylinder are all bad, i would replace it with new rubbers and pistons and see if it helps. i would also look for leaks and the check the valve as well. thanks for the info. Roger

I need some advice. i just completed my A31 conversion, i bought a r32 gts front cut and moved over everything, also changed to the r32 diff. I have been driving the car for a week now, idles nice and moves real good, engine is really healthy but i am having two problems. 1. i find the brakes are a little soft, i have bleed the lines twice and still the same thing. 2. when you mash the brakes all the way down the idle drops to 100rpm and picks back up to 800 or sometimes it would cut off. so this makes it difficult for when you are bleeding the brake lines any suggestions? Thanks Roger

thanks, it was the spring that was giving trouble so we are good to go

here is the other issue i am having. like i said i did a full conversion taking all the r32 mechanical parts and using it on the a31, the diff has also been changed to the lsd one that came with the r32. like others have stated the 1st half of the driveshaft is the same (with out the second half it would bolt sraight up as there is lots of room to pull it back to get the bolts to line up). the second half i needed to get adjusted so i got a machinist to cut and swap the end that bolts on to the first half. he said he maintained the same length and he balanced it. but when i bolted it up i needed to actually pull the center bracket back about 1/4 inch to line up the holes on the holes on the body of the car (not the whole drive shaft as i had little or no room room to move it. as you know the center bracket is made up of a rubber piece (not sure of the correct name) this is where the movement came from for me to get the bracket to move back 1/4 inch). now i have two questions linked to this. from this it looks like the 2nd half of the shaft is 1/4 inch to long or is this how it usually is? does anyone know the length of the second shaft from end to end. i am getting a slight vibration (not all the time) i don't know if he did not balance the shaft properly or if it has to do with the center bracket being pulled back 1/4 inch to get the holes lined up. would this cause any damage or the vibration. appreciate the help

here is the original http://i.imgur.com/wpZZNMO.jpg?1 here is mine http://i.imgur.com/SmRnjvp.jpg?1 lets see if the pics work