SoFreshSoClean

Well now I am questioning the legitimacy of that Never mind, tuner reckons it will easily make my power goals on about 16psi once the fuel pump is sorted.. Could be a clogged fuel filter or a voltage issue, if not I will whack a bosch motorsport pump in.

Have so far made 280rwhp on 10 psi.. and have run into fuel pump issues(Its a walbro )

Thats why I couldnt figure out why it would come on boost so slowly.. it was the slowest 350rwhp I'd ever felt thats for sure.

You'll notice I tried to be helpful and got it thrown in my face..

Shh!! A magician never gives away his secrets!

I see, thanks for your help Yes! You get it.. cruising noises are just irritating. GT-RS was chosen because it has similiar lag to standard.. it passed over the pits but will still flow 400hp

Yeah, that might be the go. Pretty keen to keep it looking as stock as possible under the engine bay so that would tie in nicely. Its a bit anti social.. and plus I don't think the po po would appreciate it. Plus, its reaaaaally annoying on long drives. Acceleration spool is cool, yes. Constant drone, no. Nah no noises like that to report.. Excuse my ignorance, but what is a port shrouded comp cover, what are its benefits and will it do anything if I remove it?

I understand what you're saying here, but on a standard skyline the nose will push wide first, ie they are still set up to understeer first assuming you dont put the boot into it. Dont put the boot into when you're cornering

Hi all, I have a R33 GTS25t with a GT-RS. I'm not sure what the issue is, but the turbo whistle is too loud. It basically sounds like its spooling, but happens at very very gentle throttle angles. Pretty much just off idle it starts, cruising at 110km/h its a constant whistle (i.e. really, really annoying). Does anyone have any experience with this turbo? My mechanic suggested it was because I used to have a foam filter on which does not block any noise, however I changed it to a K&N item and it's only slightly quieter. Other things I have pondered include the BOV leaking (its a standard item) and some sort of resonance in the intake piping. The second option doesnt really make sense though as the whistle happens all the way through the rev range. I'm just hoping its not a problem with the actual turbo. It is getting tuned on Wednesday and that is one of the things my mechanic is checking, just wondering if anyone's been through this already...

Thats what I'm hoping!!

For those that are interested.. I ended up fitting a HKS GT-RS, it is getting tuned on Wednesday Never got a chance to fiddle with the old setup because I got a yellow sticker, and had to remove the intake plenum, fuel rail, turbo and manifold etc and revert to stock parts(except for the turbo, hehe) I also found the cause of the lag.. the wastegate was welded completely open!! The guy that fitted is has revealed himself as more and more of a f#ckwit every day. Watch this space 8)

that's the response of a douche, just so you're aware of it..

A few months ago..

I returned my car to 'stock', standard wheels, standard exhaust (but gt-rs turbo hehe). Got told when I got there that I still had to do IM240 and 5 gas. Me: "Oh but I rang the DPI and the lady told me returning it to stock would be fine, I've spent 10k (cough) already doing this" The inspector mumbled something, went and talked to his supervisor, and said "Ok, since the IM240 isn't really running we'll sign off on the car" I pretty much did the macarena right then and there.

you said it yourself buddy fix your car, and stop whining that the inspectors are doing their job

Dont take this the wrong way, but from the sounds of it it doesnt sound like your car should be on the road. I know it sucks being poor and young, but you have to understand that for the safety of everyone else on the road you have to play by the rules. If your car is bleeding fluids everywhere there is a chance it could start a fire. If it has a bonnet scoop then it means that the bonnet has been cut and is also probably not safe in a crash (depending on the quality of the work). Hope you can come to a good outcome, good luck.

I bought a HKS GT-RS. Its untuned at the moment, running on a reset Power FC and using the standard ~1 bar actuator to control boost. Feels slightly laggier than standard, but with a much torquier midrange/top end. Its getting dyno tuned on Monday hoping for 330rwhp, I'll let you know how it goes

Strut bars they dont care about. Pod filters OK as long as they are secured. Intercoolers OK as long as they are secured and also do not interfere with tow hooks. All lights/wipers/washers must be in working order (I didnt check my parkers and they picked me for the LH one). I would check the smoke issue out though, they will question you on that. You must have 100mm ground clearance, if it is close then they roll a bar under your car, mine was 2mm too low on the exhaust and they picked that

Yeah it was a silvia not a 200sx

Great news for WA enthusiasts. IM240 was a fricken joke. I heard about a guy who spent 10k passing a N/A S14 silvia!!

Dayum... Datto's have sure come a long way since the 1600 Uber jealous dude, nice to see someone enjoying their car and not being a pansy!

Just so you guys are in the know, you can actually buy special oxygen sensor sockets that have a split that the wire fits into. Covs sells them =)

Yeah, dry cells and new calcium batteries need different charge modes. The new projecta ones have seven modes! I remember reading about it, they are something like boost, hold, pulse, maintain, stuff like that. Its definitely not a simple process. However I guess you could wire up the solar panel to power the battery charger if you were keen enough

Dude, you haven't listened to a thing anyone has said. The Oxygen sensor does not affect power in any possible way As someone has said you could stuff a chicken sandwich in the hole and you would still get the same power. The oxygen sensor helps the ECU cycle between rich/lean on cruise so as to obtain the best fuel economy. If you want to avoid R&R, sell your mines ECU and get a proper standalone unit, or use a piggyback on the standard one (which is cheaper anyways) Mines ECU might seem cheaper now (it isnt), but is it worth blowing your motor?

Borrow someone else's ECU and see if it makes any difference.