dangerman4

i may have exagerated the 6 week part but nun the less, battery terminals / connections is one of the first things they should have checked. how long does it take to grab the terminals and twist them and then grab the wires and tug them? 5 seconds tops. these are the simple obvios things that should allways be checked first. if they took this long im sure it was just a flook that they found the prob at all.

ive got a fully built 25 for sale with all the goodies making 350 rwkws if your interested $8k including ETM highmount, 3582r-iw all lines etc. you can then sell all your stuff and it will only cost you a few grand to update to 350 kws http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/fi...t-p4359570.html

6 weeks, but more importantly what was the bill to fix a earth terminal?

genuine nissan belt FTW

044 intank all day everyday

eeeeeeeeeek your telling us its $8700 for a $3000 port job and then $5700 for a basic rebuilt with stock rods and crank?

pfc, trans, and intake manifold on hold any other offer's?

yep replace the belt with a genuine nissan one. and i would certainly be removing the head and getting it line bored to suit the tollerances of your cams. what's your oil pump like?

all must go, cmon guys awesome parts, at decent prices.

i highly doubt that would be a possible cause. you would need a hell of a lot of tension on the belt to cause an issue. the fact that the belt is changing tension is a bit of a concern. what brand of belt? new tensioner and idler? new bolts for the tensioner and idler?

seeing as the intake cam is fine i would assume there is something inside the head blocking the oil gallery to the exhaust cam. if the head is off stick some compressed air into where the oil feeds into the head and note the air coming out of the cam bearing holes on both sides. or if the heads still on the car with the cams removed crank it over and watch how much oil comes out of the oil holes at each bearing. if the cams are removed all your valves will be shut so no need to worry about pistons hitting anything, just remove your plugs and crank it.

no worries i will happily seperate the car if i can find buyers for a few of the major parts like manifold / turbo set up, engine , trans etc.once the big things are allocated i will strip all the parts and list prices for all the remaining mods.

looking for around $20k complete , or will seperate

http://www.illwillpress.com/FOR33.html

engine internals rb25det built 12 months ago but done low kays ,consists of acid cleaned and prepped block, new welsh plugs etc balanced crank to suit new rods and pistons Eagle H beam rods ACL Forged pistons Jun oil drive collar ARP crank, big end, and head studs N1 oil pump new R33 water pump new tensioners and nissan belt tomei oil retrictors head rebuilt with tomei poncams tomei exhaust cam wheel new NGK iridium's Bolt ons ETM high mount manifold HPC coated black gt3582r-iw with exhaust housing HPC coated black choice of either 18 psi or 24 psi actuator. turbo beenie ss braided lines both feed and return. 3 inch dump with 2 inch wastegate pipe all in 316 stainless 5 inch cat PFC with inbuilt Boost controller 600 x 300 x 80 ASE front mount brand new bosch q45 AFM 4 inch stainless intake FPR with gauge 044 intank setup. Trans fully built box from MV Automatics 2800 high stall stg 2 shift kit includes all new custum clutches and kevlar band etc this is my wifes car so was only ever boosted properly on the dyno. either seperate for parts or sell car whole. open to offers

i think my high mount ETM was around the $1550, including the water and oil feed and return lines made by ETM and it was also ceramic coated, as was the exhaust housing. looking at your pricing about $2200 for turbo and gate and $1500 for the rest. i know what i would pick any day of the week and i would also recomend 44mm gate as a minimum bigger the better really.

Gary whats your fuel pump? im also running 550 nismo's and im still below 90% your fuel pressure must be very low to be maxing them at that power range. i had a similar turbo and i got it to 270 but that was about the end of the vg30 housing. im running a 044 intank with a FPR set at 43 psi base pressure.

when i got my trans built with high stall i also installed poncams , then re dynoed it and i lost 40 rwkws over standard torque convertor and standard cams, nothing else changed. Mike at MV said the high stalls do suck power when run on a dyno, and if i wanted to be a dyno hero i should stick with the stock convertor as it will allways read a higher no. but in a straight line the high stall will allways out perform the stocker.

come on guys give me some credit i had allready converted it to aussie dollars. its $10500 nzd

i think you will find the lines go thru the radiator to warm up the trans fluid when its cold or just started, once everything is up to temp the trans cooler then stops it from over heating.

q45 is a little on the large side for a rb20. how much power are you trying to make

on the rips webiste a forged short motor is $8600. i would be asking them for a short block as thats all they build killer rb30's

with the new wastegate actuator im at 330 rwkws with a 2800 high stall and standard trans but fully built by MV Auto. i should come for a drive to see you trent and then run the car at the street drags in melb. i will be selling the car soon so it would be nice to see its potential before she goes.

has it got a gates timing belt on it? it will be a bluey black colour. thats probally your rubbing noise from the front of the engine. dead fuel pump? check all 3 cam timing marks? do a compression test and replace your plugs if they look shitty.

next time i take the 33 out i will get a pic of the hand controller showing boost and revs. its a 25 same manifold as Als 3582r-iw .82 ive seen 5 psi by 2600rpm on a big hill, and i reckon im around the 4k mark for 24 psi. i will pay attention and get a pic for you.