Shayde

Yeah.. I personally worked on the WCDMA sites at Kambalda, Norseman and Coolgardie.. Trust me, I know they're good. Antennas down

Also, the 90 mile stretch is the best road to replace a tyre. Preferably the middle of it and during the peak of summer.

I've had some work done at Spoilershop. I personally wouldn't recommend them. PM me if you want any further info >_>

I went to that HJs the day it opened. At about 12:30pm they lost power and had to turn away customers because they couldn't actually cook anything I got the last burger they could make.. shouldn't have got chicken, damn near vomited!

Long story short, it's only 2 years and 2 pretty important years at that. You need to look at this as tough love. If you have the kind of mentality that says "EVERYONE DOES BURNOUTS AND IF YOU SAY YOU DON'T YOU'RE KIDDING YOURSELF" then you're one of the stereotypes these laws are targetting. Yeah, you can hoon in any car, but putting them in less powerful cars and cars with less stigma attached to them is going to decrease the chances of people trying to show off. They do it with bikes with engine size restrictions and that makes perfect sense. Spending 25-30 hours driving with L plates before putting you on your own doesn't give you the experience you need.

Don't work in hospitality.. Oh man, you'll regret that Don't pay overtime rates and expect you to work overtime.

He got rid of his WRX for that.. for SHAME

Wtf, that car never got done for hoon law.

Series 1 for sure. The skyline logo on the back is clear instead of the same colour as the car and the front end doesn't have a series 2 2-door front bar, series 2 bonnet or series 2 head lights.

It shouldn't change the way your car runs... it's just a boost controller. I've had mine looked over by a workshop as well and mine is correct. It is the intended way it should be set up.

There should be a DRP setting somewhere from memory.. When you go over your max boost level, it'll try and drop the boost by the amount set in DRP.

SeS, Yeah, I have a low mount, internal gate. Aftermarket turbo and BoV. Same block off thing going on. I can't remember exactly without looking and it's cold outside Okay, had a look. First nipple (on the left with the bracket facing backward) goes to actuator on the turbo. Middle nipple goes to intercooler piping. Last nipple on the right goes to the same line that all my boost gauges feed off. My initial set up.. Just set my max boost to 12psi with boost warning set to 13.5psi and boost drop set to 3psi. All the offsets at 0. Hope that helps! Shayde

Hey guys, my EVC 6 reads well above my HKS analog gauge, seems to be a normal thing. Mine reads about 3 psi higher. Mines also set up according to the diagram and holds boost very nicely. My only peeve is that it reads the wrong values.

Don't they need to yellow you for 3 different things?

It's always fun to watch the ford and holden fanboys go hard at each other

Myself and ossie_21 have already done it. We drove from Sunshine Coast, Queensland to Perth in 3.5 days in our own skylines. So yeah, mini cruise across Australia. 4,500km.

Well, I can tell you a way to get them working.. You're gonna need some 2amp red cable, a good earth, a relay and some higher amperage cable, probably at least 20amp red/black (figure 8) cable. I just wrote up a quick 1 step guide, but I'd recommend getting someone who would know what to do with those materials to install it. Edit: I'll be doing the same (only to my high beams) because my lights flicker when my low and high beams are on at the same time. (They were wired that way when the xenons were fit and the xenons just seem to draw too much current for the existing cables. Usually when you put high beams on, the low beams switch off and vice versa).

WGMG: [insert picture here of a scrape on my rear bumper from some f**k who can't park a f**king car]

I thought the hand helds had to be used in a specifc way to get an accurate reading. Not just point and press. Same with multinovas, very picky as to how they are meant to be set up. Cheeky f**ks.

I'll be powering mine with a 2nd battery in a boot, connected to the main battery via a relay as to make it charge while the car is on/running. In there will also be an inverter. The current battery is pretty much at it's limit with xenons and LCD already so a 2nd smaller battery will do the job. I've got the entire thing planned out in my head, I should probably put it on paper before I start, but then I usually make shit up as I go along anyway.

I'm going down the same path with in-car PC. I wouldn't mind having the source of the program to have a tinker with

Aah man that is another thing that grinds my gears

WGMG - Women.

Good thing is everyone was alright.. Like my old boss said, cars are replaceable.. people aren't. sucks to see a nice 33 off the road that way.

Oooo! I can actually attend! Yay for no more night shift!