Fixxxer

I had my skyline for about 3 years, RB20 with s2 r33 turbo. I ran 0.9 bar on it a few times, but usually 0.8 and it made 173rwkw). Didn't know the history of the turbo before that. I dont know the true failure mode, but I 'presume' that the rear wheel died first, and then put the compressor wheel into the housing (only took one chip out of the compressor wheel though, I still have it sitting on my desk). Turned at an intersection and it let go in 1st gear at about 4500rpm or so, as it was building boost. (was running 0.8bar), with EBC. The motor was fine, didn't find any bits of plastic in the cooler pipes. Replaced the turbo with a s1 r33 turbo, noticed a little more lag. I guess the point is, the r33 turbo can die, and when and how it happens can be random and be different from car to car. Fixxxer

WD40 is your friend.... always. If your socket won't let you tighten up all the bolts it will leak, even if it's the centre bolt. Use some washers or a spacer to get clearance for your socket if need be. The dump pipe bolts you should be able to get from any good exhaust shop. I got like 6 or 8 of them for nothing cause I asked nicely. Fixxxer

Toluene (Methybenzene) has been around for many years (decades) as an octane booster/detonation suppressor. Just look back to F1 in the turbo era to discover the great benefits of it. You don't need large amounts to provide a 'safer' mix for road use on hot days..... if you want to run more boost, then you'll need to add fair amounts in the tank, e.g., 10% is a good ratio I've heard. I think one of the drawbacks is is can, over time, degrade rubber components in the fuel system. Fixxxer

Don't do it if you've still got the stock setup. The only thing 100W did for my r32 was melt/blow fuses, I put in 30% brighter 55W bulbs and they were brighter. If you've got a nice relay system set up, then run what you want, but higher watts doesn't necessarily mean a brighter light. Fixxxer

Mine let go turning right at an intersection, coming onto boost (doubt it would get to 12psi in first gear at all, but it let go at about 5000rpm tops), so maybe 5psi??? R33 S2 Turbo on RB20det. What about high temps + change in angular/rotational velocity? Shaft speed wouldn't have been high on mine. Fixxxer

The sensor mentioned above (the one just to the right of the gear stick behind the little slits) is the one that was not connected in my car, and I had the same problems as you (hot all the time). I reconnected mine and walah, the aircon works, and I no longer need to press the recirculate button to stop hot air pouring into the cabin all the time. Fixxxer

C is just the hex size, 5/8 inch. Same plug type though. Fixxxer

A lot of guys running the BCPR6ES plugs at 0.8mm gap find a slight miss at idle. Mine is running this setup and has a random slight miss at idle sometimes, no problems anywhere else in the rev range. Don't worry yourself over it. Fixxxer

Where do you mount the gas bottle? How big is the bottle? I would think you'd run out of CO2 pretty quickly, and isn't it fairly expensive (and totally not convenient) to fill? I wanted something similar, so I went the Autospeed route and bought a Spraying Systems TX4 cone jet nozzle, some hose, and run it from the rear windscreen washer motor (it uses the factory switch). I haven't had the chance to test it in the heat of summer, but so far in cool weather the intercooler is very cold, as compared to cold (when I don't use the spray). Fixxxer

How come we can't edit the original post??? Anyways, PRICE DROP to $12,000 ono. Fixxxer

Keep offers coming, it is ono.

Forgot, Rego till April 2009.

Make: Nissan Skyline R32 GTST (Type M) Milage: 180K body, ~90K motor Transmission: Manual - 5spd Colour: Red Location: Algester Complied? Yes RWC supplied? Yes Currently registered? Yes Price: $12,500 ono Contact: Post in this thread or PM me Comments / Modifications: R33 turbo Full 3 inch turbo back exhaust FMIC Heavy Duty Clutch Extreme Lightweight Flywheel Blitz ECU GReddy Profec EBC Custom CAI box including K&N pod filter Mongoose M80 alarm, 3point immob., windows up, keyless entry, etc. Upgraded Fuel pump Turbo Timer Turbosmart BOV Strut Brace, Lowered (legal) Earthing kit Intercooler water spray kit New oil catch can (not fitted) Dyno'd at 173rwkw @ 0.8bar Exterior 18 inch XHP Saber wheels with almost new Federal 595SS tyres Dark tint Type M bodykit Interior: Interior in great condition, no rips/tears in seats. Autometer Boost gauge Saber electrical water temp gauge Blue LEDs in gauge cluster Genuine *Skyline* floor mats Stereo: Alpine headunit Alpine speakers front and rear May sell with sub + amp package if buyer prefers Parts recently replaced: New radiator, new clutch master cylinder and slave, front rotors and brake pads, gearbox and diff fluids replaced, fully reco’d starter motor. Serviced every 5000km. New timing belt installed with new bearings and idler pulley etc, including new water pump. 180K on the odo but original motor rebuilt at ~100K. If you’re picky, the bonnet could use a respray (clear coat not perfect), otherwise, the car mechanically is A1, including all electrics. Everything that needs to be done has been, only reason I am selling it is because I have another project car, and would like a smaller car for getting to work and back (city) every day. Images: Fixxxer

Coolant lines need the copper washers on top and bottom of each (collant in and coolant out) banjo fitting. You can reuse the old ones if they are still in ok condition. Do the coolant lines up as tight as you can.... and then tighten more, or it will leak (I just went through this). You can reuse the oil copper washers if they are in good condition. Do this up good and tight too. Fixxxer

For some reason I can't see your photo? Anyways, when I changed my turbo I couldn't tighten a bolt very hard at all from the turbo to the dump pipe, so I thought I'd leave it and see how it went. First time after driving it it was smoking bad from the rear of the turbo, although couldn't exactly tell where it was coming from. I got a few washers to space out the bolt and then tightened it properly and the smoke went away. The point of the story, make sure your manifold to turbo, and turbo to dump pipe bolts are all tight. Fixxxer

I must have run over a nun or something, f**k I have some bad luck with this car. Pirtek - do not have any suitable copper washers Nissan - has the part, but has to order it in from Melbourne!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! This is getting on my nerves. Fixxxer

Hi, Ok so when I rip off my turbo coolant lines again, I'm going to do a coolant change aswell. I can't find any recommendations on the type of coolant to use, only that the R32 maintenance thread says use a 50:50 anti-freeze /anti-boil mix (I don't need anti-freeze, I'm in brisbane). Is this a glycol coolant? or non-glycol coolant? What ratio glycol (g/L)? Autobarn said that depending on engine/head material (cast iron vs alloy/aluminium) will need different types of coolant to stop corrosion, etc... What brands do people use? I'm just looking at one of those 1L bottles that makes up to 10L. Castrol? Tectalloy (sp)? Fixxxer

Thanks peeps, I will try a hose/connectors place like Pirtek (I was just there the other day! before I noticed my leak)....

Hey everyone, When my turbo died a month or two back I managed to lose 2 of the copper washers from the coolant line banjo bolt to the turbo. I checked out the usual autoparts stores, even tried a workshop who suggested that it was an 'odd size' and you couldn't get it. So he gave me some compressed paper washers that were a better fit and said to use a little gasket sealer to stop it bunching up when tightening the lines back on. Well now that coolant line seems to be leaking. Where do I find proper 17mm copper washers for this bolt? The ones at auto parts stores were all too loose or too small for the bolt, i.e., 15mm or 20mm+. Fixxxer

Yep, all autoparts stores should have 'em. I got mine from Autobarn, think it was $30. My sensor already had an earth wire on it, so didn't need to use the ground screw on top of the fitting. Fixxxer

I'd be thinking that to get from Point A to Point B requires a set amount of work/power. How you get from A to B is another thing relating to efficiency. (also the time it takes). To get there the most efficient, you would like the least amount of losses, including engine, drivetrain and wind resistance, and keeping the engine in it's most efficient zone of operation. Off-boost all the time may result in poor efficiency of the engine (it's not operating at it's peak efficiency versus on-boost). 5th gear gives better economy than 4th gear (if the engine isn't struggling in 5th gear), less frictinal losses, less revs, etc. Anyways, that's my two cents and may or may not be correct.... Fixxxer

The 380 C wrap sounds like it can be used to insulate something 'near' an exhaust. The 600 C sounds like wrap for exhaust manifolds and dump pipes. Go the higher rating.

I was looking forward to the 2nd part, but the results were a bit disappointing... In saying that, I've got the tinkering bug again, and am going to slot in an intercooler water spray in the next few weeks. Fixxxer

Sorry, I'm not hijacking this other guys thread, but I was running 0.8bar (12psi) on an RB20DET for the 2.5years I've had it, and it let go in 1st gear turning at an intersection, just starting to build boost. I guess it had enough and decided to break the rear wheel, before chipping the compressor wheel. Was making 229HP@wheels. I do not have the history prior to this, although, it seems as though the ECU and previous dyno runs done by former owner, indicate it had been running higher, like 0.9-1bar. Dyno graph indicates 249hp@wheels. Fixxxer

I'm going to check my intercooler soon too. I had the same thing happen. I never saw a hint of any debris anywhere in the intercooler piping, including throttle body, so I assume it might be pre-intercooler, or has already exited the engine. No signs of any motor damage. I drove around with the replacement turbo for 2-3 weeks before I opened the old turbo and found the compressor part missing. Fixxxer