Fixxxer

Blaupunkt are ok, they are usually more associated with head units though, but have a nice range of stuff. Its not high end, but better than some. I can't believe they only have a 400WRMS amp (I gather its a mono amp). Thought they would have had a more powerful version, especially if they are quoting 1000WRMS for some of their subs. The 12" VW subs that are 1200watts are probably only 400WRMS. You won't 'burn out' a coil.... If you overpower the sub then your a good chance at it. It doesn't matter how many coils there are. Stick with the power recommendations from the manufacturer, keep your amp gains adjusted appropriately to prevent clipping and they will work for a loooonng time. Fixxxer

Whats with the boost graph? Ramping up to 12psi, then almost plateauing and very slowly creeping up to 15psi. Very weird. Are dyno's of GTR's always done in 3rd gear?

I agree with everyone else, running 7psi won't help much. From what I've read if you're getting bad fuel economy (and its not because of your heavy right foot) then you might need to check your o2 sensor in the exhaust is working as it should. Fixxxer

93 Gtst Type M R33 turbo, FMIC, ProfecA 3" full exhaust K&N Pod 12psi I should add that with the previous owner, the car made 188KW@wheels at 1Bar. Fixxxer

Yeah, usually they arn't hard at all but I'm positive someone has glued this one on it's that tight. I've got the right oil filter, just can't get the other one off, hehehe. Thanks for the info guys, I just hope the bloody thing comes off if I jam a screwdriver into it, I'll probably end up bending my screwdriver Fixxxer

I would have tried 0.8mm first, but if its working for you, and the car seems fine at idle and through the rev range then its all good Fixxxer

Guide to fixing missfiring issues. Step 1: Gap spark plugs to 0.8mm if you're running over standard boost. (Copper plugs seem to work fine and are cheap). If this does not work try Step 2. Step 2: Insulate the coils with good quality electrical tape, or for a more permanent approach, araldite them. If this does not work, try Step 3. Step 3: Buy some splitfires. I don't think 2 cars are really the same. Mine had major missfiring issues and major discolouration due to arcing on ALL the coils. Mine was solved with just Step 1. Does not missfire at all on boost anymore. If/when it does start missfiring again I'll change the plugs and look into the araldite trick before spending over $500 on splitfires. Fixxxer

Still up.... someone must want plates

Thanks for the info Bl4cK32 I gave up in the end, it still looks like I haven't moved it at all, apart from almost flatening a part of the filter with the wrench from trying so hard. Not keen on doing the screwdriver thing..... so I just filled it up with new oil and the next time I change oil in 5000km, I'll let my mechanic have a go at removing the filter. Fixxxer

Hi everyone, Does anyone have an idea of what I can do to help remove my oil filter, it absolutely won't budge... I bent the cr@p out of my oil filter wrench and it didn't budge. I'm not a fan of punching a hole in it with a screwdriver, because if I still can't get it off I can't drive my car to work (or at all). Ohh and to all those mechanics, backyard or workshop, the oil filter is not like a bolt, you don't need to cram it on so tight that it welds itself to the block. My vent for this afternoon. Fixxxer

*shrug* It does blow a teeny bit of black smaoke up high on boost, so I don't have a reason to think its not running rich to some extent. And it does feel strong up top. I guess the only way to compare to other cars is to go to a dyno day and compare with others on the same dyno, same day thing. Fixxxer

Here's the graph peoples. Fixxxer

My sis's white R32 used to have one, it didn't look too bad on white. Saw very very few cars around at the time with them, I see even less now. Fixxxer

You gap the spark plugs, not the coils. If you are running more than stock boost you should be running a smaller gap than 1.1mm, most use 0.8mm gap. I use NGK Copper plugs. Have a look back through the beginning 3-4 pages of this thread and you'll see how to tape up the coils with electrical tape, or use some other type of insulator on the coils (like araldyte glue around the coils). The coils may either have a very tiny crack in them, or have a discolouration due to arcing. New plugs gapped correctly and further insulating the coils will go a long way to solving your missfiring issues. Fixxxer

Ok here's a new question which is a bit controversial. Should I run on Shell Optimax Extreme 100 to be even safer? (In terms of the possible jap ignition advance on it) Ohhh and does anyone know what all the stuff means on my early model Profec. Its got 3 small dials on it on the right, an overtake boost button, a nob that seems to go in 0.2bar increments of boost and a red LED panel that reads -.5 on idle and varies as I accelerate, I don;t think it ever makes it into positive readings, but when I'm on boost I'm usually looking at the road Could I set my boost from 0.8bar to 0.6 bar and just use the "overtake boost" button if I want to give it a little? How long does it last for? How much extra boost do I get??? I tried doing a search before but came back with lots of Profec B II stuff... Fixxxer

Hey guys.... Just to get back to my ECU, I never had the ECU mapped.... its the ECU that came with the car when I bought it, so no tuning was done when I had the car dyno'd. I've been thinking about it lots and taking peoples advice... If I did get a SAFC I would take timing out of the car to be safe with the leaner mixtures. I'm probably going to put it back to 0.6bar on my Profec for everyday driving anyways. Fixxxer

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D'oh, not something I wanted to hear. The guy who dyno'd the car said there was "already a lot of timing on it" when I asked him about the timing. He also had the other workshop guy lean over/into the engine bay and listen..... for what I gather was any pinging that may have been occuring. He did this for the last 2 dyno runs and the guy gave it the thumbs up for both runs. I'm starting to reconsider any more mods and only give it a boot full when the weather is cooler or night driving, just to be safe, this is after all, my daily driven, I don't want to break anything. My old car had the same power but only weighed 930kg, gotta get used to a larger/heavier car and live with it. Fixxxer

My air temp vs intake temp was 30 deg vs 34 deg which would sound about right. I didn't ask the guy for a straight out power run, I asked him to check AFR's.... The only bad thing to come out of it was that my car now seems to have a very slight miss when idleing which wasn't there before.... seems to miss in quite a random fashion..... not like its missing on 1 cylinder every time, just sometimes.... but I can live with that if the car runs fine through to redline. I'll probably need new coils in the future. I think I may settle for an old SAFC in the future too.... I really only need to move my AFR from sitting on pretty much consistant 10:1 all the way to redline, up to 11.5 AFR. I think it would be pretty simple with an old SAFC. Fixxxer

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I think its the other way around there. Fuel = Black Oil = Bluey