Fixxxer

The figures on the graph say BP:101.3 RH:60 AT:30 IT:34 RR:015 TN:4.765 CK: 811 CF:SHOOT_6F Tyrepressure:30 Gear: 4 He even said himself that it put out more than usual, but I guess he was just comparing that to a more standard r32. Th power curve is nice, smooth and linear, peak power at 6500rpm then drops away to around 210HP by 7500rpm. Still working on getting the graph scanned. Fixxxer

My exhaust mods are the usual full 3" all the way through. The original owner says its got a blitz chip or whatever in it, I've never taken the time to look *shrug* I really don't care, so long as the car runs fine.... I don't know anything about how the car ran before versus after installation. I'll probably keep it at 12psi as it is now..... I don't get up it much, or for extended times, just a hit through 2nd gear once every while. I might look into a 2nd hand SAFC down the track. Thanks for your opinions everyone Fixxxer

If I get a chip does that mean I have to just ditch my blitz ecu/chip in the car now??? You're talking a remap of the standard computer are you? Fixxxer

"no super rich" <---- What does super rich do to EGT's? Fixxxer

Hey guys, hope to get a scanned pic of my dyno graph soon. Just wanted to tell you about it. R32 Skyline, RB20det, filter, exhaust, FMIC, R33 turbo, blitz ecu/chip, Profec EBC, 12psi. Made 229HP@wheels (173KW@wheels).... @ 0.83bar (little over 12psi), 30deg air temp and 60% humidity. Makes full boost (12psi) at around 3500rpm (I think thats a little late) but the tuner said thats not unusual for the lil RB engine. Anyways, like I suspected the car is running mega rich, once boost starts to build the AFR's drop down to 10.2:1, and even dips under 10:1 for about 1000-1500rpm (Dyno dynamics won't measure AFR's lower than 10) then back to 10.2:1 until redline. The guy said there is a fair bit of advance timing in it at the moment, and no pinging was heard. I'm pretty happy with that power output so I think I'm going to just leave the thing silly rich and live with it..... I'm not sure the $500-600 for a SAFC would be worth the extra hassles?? Opinions??? Fixxxer

Still up for sale

Item: "PHA 732" Number Plates, i.e., "FAT 32" suit any R32 Skyline Location: QLD Item Condition: EC Reason for Selling: Don't need them anymore Price and Payment Conditions: Offers over $400 (these plates cost all up $450 to get them personalised) - Since they are now personalised a new colour combination can be chosen at no extra cost I believe. Bargain! Extra Info: Suits any R32 skyline, These are "retro" plates (customised) which can not be transferred usually, but have now been fully personalised so they can be transferred as per normal personalised plates. Contact Details: PM me offers or post in this thread. Fixxxer

Price dropped to $450 ONO... Want to sell these guys, I have no need for them. As far as I am aware and because these plates have now been fully personalised, the new buyer can choose a new colour scheme without it costing anything. Fixxxer

Foznice, the same thing happens in my r32. If I have everything off hot air will blow down onto my foot (accelerating pedal).... the air is hot to the point it almost burns my foot on long drives. If I turn the fan on it will blow the hot air through all the vents. I can't make the hot air stop no matter what I press. If I turn my aircon on, it doesn't change, still blows hot air.... the only way I can get my aircon to work is if I keep my finger on the BLUE temp button to get it into Fast Cool mode.... then it blows nice cool air Has anyone solved this problem??? Fixxxer

Item: "PHA 732" Number Plates, i.e., "FAT 32" suit any R32 Skyline Location: QLD Item Condition: EC Reason for Selling: Don't need them anymore Price and Payment Conditions: $450 ono Extra Info: Suits any R32 skyline, These are "retro" plates (customised) which can not be transferred usually, but have now been fully personalised so they can be transferred as per normal personalised plates. Contact Details: PM me offers or post in this thread. Fixxxer

I was at 420km when I filled up (just under a 1/4 tank to go), so I don't have any reason to doubt I would have reached at least 480km. Probably 250km in highway, the rest city and around the 'burbs kind of driving. Couldn't get up mine too much cause my missfiring was really bad, but thats all sorted now R32 with all the add ons + r33 turbo. To get better fuel economy u can do basic things like don't use aircon as much, keep car aerodynamic - windows up, (remove rear wing). Cruise at a lower speed lowers drag on the car (like 100km in a 110km/h zone), and just drive smoothly - i.e., don't race to the limit and pick the tallest gear possible when driving. Fixxxer

I had a nasty miss, not so much in hot weather but really bad missfiring especially at night, anything over 8psi and anything over 4000rpm. RB20DET, intercooler, 12psi, R33 turbo. I finally got around to changing the spark plugs and found that the "Iri-top8" plugs that were in the car looked like they had done 2,000,000km, the electrode had been eaten away to the point that they were almost 1.1mmgap, rather than 0.8mm..... so much for the guy saying my car had been serviced recently. The coils I looked at, none seemed to have a hairline crack, but all 6 of them had fairly major discolouration due to arcing.... problem found. Solution, new NGK copper plugs @ 0.8mm, NO tapeing/glueing/insulating of the coils, just put them back in with the new plugs and walaaaaah! the miss has completely gone (for now, hopefully forever). Ohhh and a tip for all, always use anti-seize stuff on the spark plugs because my plugs were almost welded to the head. I figure that the first problem was the iridium plugs, maybe needing more energy to spark and secondly the plugs were waaaay worn to the point the were approx 1.0-1.1mm gap, making it even harder to spark. Hence the easiest route for spark was not to arc across the plug, but rather arc to the head, causing the discolouration/melting of the coil. With proper new copper 0.8mm gap plugs the car drives so much better.... now i just need to put it on the dyno and see what the AFR's are doing. Fixxxer

Ahhhh, ok.. So both turbo's have 'elbows' but an RB20 elbow will not fit on a RB25 turbo compressor outlet... Just wanted to make sure that if I throw the rb20 turbo with its elbow back onto the car that the pipes will all match up. Thanks... Fixxxer

Hi everyone, I have a R32 with a RB25 turbo and a FMIC. Will I need to change the intercooler pipes (coming off the compressor cover of the turbo) if I revert it back to a normal RB20 turbo? I gather they sit a little differently because I have a metal elbow piece from when the RB20 turbo used to be on there, but will the RB20 turbo go straight back on with the metal elbow piece and line up with my intercooler pipe thats there at the moment? Thanks, Fixxxer

Sounds like the Bendix Advanced is good enough for street use, I'll get them when I grab my new DBA front rotors on Tuesday Fixxxer