Fixxxer

Most will argue that on an RB20 the 33 turbo is good for 13-14psi at the upper limit. Fixxxer

As well as the length of primary pipes, the size (I.D) of pipe will offer benefits at a different RPM ranges. Helmholz (sp) resonance from what I remember. There is a lot of info out there on correct size/length and design of headers, have a look if your interested in getting the most out of it. In real terms, the change from a poorly designed cast iron log type header to just an off the shelf primary/secondary header will offer good benefits. Fixxxer

You have tested with another spark plug right? Fixxxer

J_Red33 - Have a look into the new BFGoodrich Profiler tyre, it will be in your price range. I'll more than likely be grabbing a set of these next week rather than the Falkens/Kumhos/Hankooks RS2/K104's I've been offered. From past experience (a step down from the profiler), phenominal dry weather grip, about middle ground in the wet, however the profiler is newer and supposedly better in the wet. Made in the same factory as Michelin with the same inner carcass/structure. I've been quoted $230ea in 235/40/18 common size. Fixxxer

Well since you can't wash a car legally in Brisbane without going to a carwash place, I've just been heading there about once a month to keep the car relatively clean. I can do all I want (in a fair rush) for $5, including pre-soak, soap, brush, rinse, spot free rinse. Fixxxer

I have the same mods as you although without a remap (although there may be a Blitz chip, never checked, never wanted to) and the car runs mega rich (so maybe not). I made 172rwkw @ 12psi and on another dyno 188rwkw @ an unknown boost level (suppose 14psi). Ohh and EDIT: Mine made peak power at 6500rpm and slightly trailed off from there. I'd just say the dyno is reading a little low. Fixxxer

That looks right, wish I found this earlier, I went through the whole bottom and top row of fuses before finding the ciggie lighter one..... fark... Fixxxer

Hey all, I'm on the hunt for new tyres. Since this is a tyre thread... Tyres on at the moment: Sonar NSII in 235/40/18 - seems to be cheap tyres you get with wheel packages. Thoughts on them: Dry: 4/10 Wet: 1/10 Price: ? Have lasted for a fair while being 340 treadwear rating but can't hold first gear at all anymore, in the wet they are deadly as soon as you hit boost in 1st and 2nd gear. Just to give some more ideas on prices I've got the last few days: 235/40/18 Yoko S-drives (they reckon they are as good if not better than V103's) $388ea ($398 for V103's) Yoko A-drive R1 - $333ea Toyo Proxes4 (look alright) - $249ea Falken ZE329 - $219ea (I thought this was expensive for their 'base' tyre) Kumho 711? - $199 (didn't appeal to me) Hankook Z212 RS2 - $230 (but $289 in 225/40/18 size, 235/40/18 must be a common size) The yoko's are far too expensive, think I will go for either of the two tyres that have been mentioned on here a lot, which is the Hankook Z212's, or the Federal 595SS (or 595SS EVO) - depending on price. Going to see if I can get the Hankook for cheaper than $230 a corner. Will post up first impressions when I get them. Fixxxer

They are notoriously unreliable in R32's from what I hear and experienced. Mine was probably overheating for a long time before my top tank on the radiator let go of what coolant was left (the temp gauge read pretty normal 1/2 way, and never changed much) and overheated. My water pump had died, and was draining out what I was putting into it. Re. Your problems, if you car is reaching 3/4 in 2mins, thats pretty quick. Mine takes at least 5mins idle to go up much at all, and has been taking around 8-10mins of driving to get up to 1/2 temp. Check your water pump is not on its way out, and check coolant levels. Do yourself a favour, buy a water temp gauge. Fixxxer

Bubbles should tell you of a head gasket problem. Did you overheat your car when you lost coolant? I had my top tank let go and lost almost all the coolant, overheated (due to piece of shat R32 temp gauge). Luckily I stopped it prior to doing any engine damage, i.e., blown head gasket. Do a CO2 test. I think my top tank replacement/flush cost about $200, and was probably like $50 for labour since my mate did it all. Fixxxer

I think another person was having trouble with this. Talk with Dan666. I think the LEDs have a narrow power band type thing, and you're dimmer switch doesn't allow a small enough change to dim the LEDs before they go off. Fixxxer

Do you have an EBC? And what sort of exhaust do you have? Have a look at the exhaust, do you have a hi-flow cat, mandrel bends, how many and what kind of mufflers (design and diameter). Dropping boost usually means a restriction somewhere, my exhaust is pretty loud but holds 12psi all the way to redline. My rotor has a fairly muffled 3" system with some crush bends, and it can't hold onto the boost to redline. Fixxxer

Why would new suspension from nissan be failing this test? They obviously have something wrong then. Find out from Regency what section of the transport Act, or the vehicle standards Act, that you are in breach of. There si no law (in QLD at least) that doesn't permit you to lower you're vehicle, however, there are limits to the amount of lowering you can do (33% as mentioned in my first post). Find out from Nissan what the standard measurements from the factory were. Fixxxer

In QLD they say that you can't reduce suspension travel by more than 33% (1/3) of the original manufacturers dimensions. Think it's from the rubber bump stop to the corresponding metal stop. This sounds like what they are pulling you up for. First, see if you can find out if this "360mm" actually exists, and is what the manufacturer correctly states. If it is correct, see what you can remove from the car to make up for the few mm your missing, remove spare wheel, empty tank, not sure what you can do for your front though.... Fixxxer

I'm sure I've read that some of the rotary guys have had similiar issues (rotaries have high EGT's). Maybe check out Ausrotary for some more info. Fixxxer

Question. Would the same length of PVC piping (rather than steel) be just as effective and easier to source for the average person? Seems likely.... although not as 'pretty'. Fixxxer

Usually around 10-11L / 100km, or around 450-500km out of tank, depending on how much time it takes me to get to work in the city every weekday. Not on boost much cause the traffic is Farked. Haha.... RB20DET with 33 turbo and supporting mods. Fixxxer

Hey there, I'd throw a post up on caraudioaustralia forums, they may be able to help further. Do you have a R33 (battery in boot) so you connected the ground back to the battery? What are the spec's on the amp (watts RMS @ what ohm rating) and how many subs are you running, and the ohm rating of each sub. I would have thought both your wiring and fuse rating is insufficient for this amp anyways. Would have thought you would need a proper ANL type fuse (i thinks its called that) of at least over 100amps to get the most out of this amp, and you'd be best to go at least 4ga (even for a short run), 2ga even better. Does the fuse blow when you turn the amp on but have it on very low volume, or no sound at all, or do you crank the system and watch the fuse melt?? Fixxxer

Like I've said in other threads, my 32 GTST came with Iridiums and the car missfired like a beeatch, I never checked the gap on the Iri's though, so it may have been 1.1mm. I might try them again some day if I can get them in 0.8mm. On the copper side: I replaced the iridiums with coppers (0.8mm) and it ran great, which solved my problems, and made me I also find that I can get at least 10000 out of the coppers before I wish to change them (I could probably go further but just for piece of mind I change them). So, every 2nd service I do the plugs. On another note, I may go to Iridiums because soon the coppers will be just as expensive.... seems every time I go to autobarn they have jacked up the price again, last time they charged me $5 per plug..... Fixxxer

Get the Optima, especially if you have an alarm. Depending on your needs, you may not need something as hardcore as one of those batteries. Do you have a large stereo? You can buy these at Autobarn stores, but they will rip you hard, well last time i checked they had some stupid prices on Optima batteries. I bought my Optima Red Top for an awesome price ($275) from Turbo Batteries at Brendale, but thats a fair way from you. Check out the yellow pages online, and do a search for automotive batteries in your area, ring a few and see what they offer. Or visit the Optima battery site online, and see where they stock in QLD. Fixxxer

I changed from iridiums to copper plugs soon after I got my 32 due to a massive missfiring problem. The current plugs in the car are gapped at 0.9mm and run fine up to 13psi (haven't tried more than that), and my car is running rich as all hell (in the low 10:1 area). Here's another hint/tip, make sure your coils are getting as much voltage as possible. I'm sure my car suffers from low voltage (and is what recked my starter motor I believe). I noticed my battery connections were quite poor/dirty and corroded. Step 1: I went out and bought a new brass negative terminal connector, cut off the old connector and cleaned the wire that connected to the new terminal. Step 2: Also bought some 4gauge wire and two round eye connectors and made another ground wire from the negative battery terminal to the strut tower. ($11 from jaycar, only cause you have to buy in 1m lengths of 4gauge, I used about 50cm) End result: Car is a lot more responsive down low (off boost), a lot perkier and pulls a lot better from low revs = I'm sure the car enjoys this in the high rpm range too - note to self: get grippier rear tyres. PS: Step 3: Haven't done yet because it requires a bit of fiddling to get to the engine block ground. R32's seem to have a common ground wire which goes from the negative battery terminal to an exposed clamp that joins to the car's rails, and then continues onto the engine block. At this time mine looks extremely dirty at the rail connection and is probably why I had low voltage issues. I am intending on replacing this whole wire with another run of 4gauge wire and cleaning the rail connection and the block connection. You could also run another wire from the battery negative to the firewall. Fixxxer

Can I get a price for rear rotors (slotted) : R32 GTS-t : R=908S 297mm RRP $190 And yeah, are brake pads available too? Fixxxer

I have heard of a few people going through those turbo's with increases in boost, thought this might have been another one...... obviously not. WTF?? Dags/paint flakes from where??? Fixxxer?

The headlight switch is one problem, blowing fuses is another. 1. Mine was blowing/melting fuses because someone had installed a 100W bulb instead of the 55W standard H1 bulb. Check your headlight bulbs first to identify if some nob installed a higher wattage (100W) bulb thinking it was brighter. The brown/burnt marks on the white connector is most likely being caused by the 100W bulb. Change to 55W bulbs (you can get 'brighter' 55W bulbs from any auto parts store) 2. Your white plug with the 3 black 'pots' should all be of equal length, it appears as though both the outside black pots are of shorter length (more rounded). You can attempt to elongate the spring underneath the black pots to match the middle pot height. Fixxxer

$180 Pickup??? Guess I'll just have to keep it otherwise...