Fixxxer

Will consider swap for something else... Mono amp??

$200 ono for pickup.

Item: Kicker ZR360 amp Location: Brisbane Item Condition: Perfect and in working order Reason for Selling: Really need a 4-channel and this one has too much power. Price and Payment Conditions: $180 pickup Extra Info: BNE/Gold coast buyer CASH Contact Details: Reply here, or PM me. KICKER ZR360 stated spec's: 90wrms x 2 @ 4ohm...... 360wrms bridged 4ohm mono. One of the best amps kicker made before they went overseas manufacturing. Very underrated. Actual tested specs on another ZR360 are shown below (I don't have an actual birth certificate cause the original owner did not have it). But for ease, the summary is: 141.3 watts RMS x 2 @ 14 volts (4ohm) 257.4 watts RMS x 2 @ 14 volts (2ohms) 574.2 watts RMS x 1 (4ohm bridged) and 725.4 watts RMS x 1 (2ohm bridged) Yes, these amps can be driven down to 1ohm (stereo), good for hooking up 2 x 4ohm subs together (or any other configuration). Would also work perfect running a quality front SQ setup. The amp comes with a standard module docking port which plays all frequencies. Use your headunits subwoofer RCA outputs to turn it into a sub amp, conversely use front or rear RCA's with your headunits frequency cutoffs for your other speakers. Gold plated terminals, 4 gauge power inputs, 8 gauge speaker inputs, RCA outputs, etc... Fixxxer

If you turn your amps 'gain' up, yes, you will reach distortion earlier (below 30 on your headunit). Does it get distortion on the low notes? Then you could try to bump up your high pass to filter out some of the lowlows. Ultimate solution, get a sub to play the lows and keep your others for the mid-bass and higher freq's. Ohh, and have you checked its not your doors that are rattling making the speakers sound like junk? Something to think about. Fixxxer

Do a reset of your computer while you are at it, I have heard the computer will take out timing/muck around with settings when it gets to a high temp. Although white smoke doesn't sound too great. I had all the water disappear because of a cracked end tank on my radiator, didn't notice the needle move either (have heard R32 temp gauges are useless at high temps). My car also stalled when taken out of gear once I noticed it was overheating. Had a CO2 test done (I think that's what it's called) and all seemed fine, and has been fine, for the last 3-4 months. Guess I caught mine before any real damage set in. Was an RB20det though... Get a Co2 test done I guess. Fixxxer

Have a look in the tutorials section for cleaning of AAC or IAC, sounds like a 'hunting' issue. Or do a search for 'hunting' idle, common in R32's. Fixxxer

What is the efficiency range of those high-flow turbo's? Can they run 20-22psi? What about considering a well set-up water injection system then....?? Fixxxer

Thanks for all the replies. Will see what I can do to make it the best setup. Fixxxer

Don't know if this will help, but my passenger window was playing up. I could work it from the drivers side, but the passenger switch would not wind the window back up. I ended up taking out the switch and the contacts were quite dirty and the little copper 'contact' switch was sort of bent and didn't seem to make contact when the switch was pressed up. I bent it so that it made definite contact when the switch was pushed 'up' and 'down'. It's worked great since then. Fixxxer

That's the thing, it looks like accessing another grounding point is a lot more work than just attaching it to the one that is already there. I'll go in for a closer inspection and see if I can easily ground it separately, otherwise I'm going to go with the grounding it at the same point. Thanks for verifying. Fixxxer

Hey guys, just wanted to verify with someone else that I am correct. I am changing my mates amp from a 4 channel (broken) to two x 2 channel amps. I am buying a distribution block for the power wire (4ga in) (2x8ga out) to supply power. Without having to rip up carpet, I'm just going to get another distribution block to GROUND both amps. I'm pretty sure that there is nothing wrong with having the two amps grounding at the same point. Correct? Fixxxer

Hey thanks for the quick replies guys. Took it to a guy who installs car audio and he said he checked everything, didn't say exactly what, but all the speaker wires, and all RCA cables were unplugged when I got the car back. Power/ground and remote wires (on other side of amp, were still connected). He said it was a amp problem. I'm leaning away from RCA's because all channels of the amp arn't working, not just the fronts or backs. Another thing was that sometimes the sub would work (rear channels bridged) but the front channels would still be off (front speakers would not work)). Think I need to talk to this guy again and find out what tests he did..... How do you test RCA cables? Wish I could test the amp out on another car, but too much fiddling around.

Hi there, I've got a Kicker KX600.4 (75WRMSx4) that has died, I suspect something with the power supply cause all 4 channels are not really working now. It started off being fine for well over 12 months, then it started to randomly play softly for a random amount of time, sometimes then going back to playing loud, then going inaudible except for a small thump noise from the sub every 10 seconds or so, and finally it never really got loud again... The front speakers were the same, didn't work at all really. I'd like to get it checked out and fixed if it isn't too much $$$... where do people go to get car audio amps fixed? Who fixes Kicker amps? Thanks for any help. Fixxxer

Don't know whether I can understand what you are saying? Are you having boost control problems??? Removing a resonator won't do much for boost pressures, or backfires. Chuck it on a dyno and find out what's happening with boost and AFR's, the car may be running mega rich.

I had all mine changed recently, and one started to slip on start-up. I tightened it up more (since they probably stretch a little the first time you put them on) and it's gone away now (only once in a blue moon will it make the slightest squeel noise on start-up). I think some belts are just better than others..... Fixxxer

Mine was doing this (sometimes turned over and started instantly) sometimes all it did was 'click' and nothing. Turns out mine was worn out terminal contacts at the starter motor due to low voltage cranking. So check battery first to see if it is just an 'almost dead' battery, then move onto the starter motor, including all connections to starter and battery. A 'relay' was added to my starter to help with the low voltage to starter (although I don't think this was the ultimate solution). I'm going to, when I get the time, replace the positive and negative cables (battery -'ve to block, etc) because I'm thinking my car has a low voltage problem altogether due to poor condition, and size, of these cables. The -'ve cable to the block and negative battery terminal itself looks greasy/dirty and is of small size. Fixxxer

Earthquake are a good brand, and they were (and probably still are) big things in the SPL area. The early PHD/Mono type amps with big power came out years ago and were used extensively in the SPL area, and generally performed very well, some people had issues driving really low impedences and blew some up, but I think they solved some of these issues in later series of amps. Yes, they are smaller due to being a Class D amp (subs only), but like anything they are only so efficient, and making 3000WRMS is still going to generate a lot of heat no matter how efficient they are. Your best bet would be to comb through some of the forums on caraudioaustralia.com and see what you can find on this particular amp, and some of the previous amps made by earthquake. Like I said I haven't heard too much about them in recent times, but I haven't kept up to date with that area in recent times.

Think you'll still need to find out how your car reacts to different things so you'll still have to figure it out urself. You can do the 'set rpm' launch..... pick a rpm level and drop clutch, or if you've got loads of traction a couple of big free revs and launch it at 7500rpm should do the trick Do a reasonable burnout to get the tyres up to temp also. Fixxxer

Point noted, I probably should have been more direct and stated that this is not suited to all applications. The vehicle I am talking about is well over-tyred, is light, and isn't set-up to bounce off a rpm limiter on launch. Bringing revs up to a certain level does not bring on boost as well as a number of free (over)revs and then a launch with this vehicle. All best 60ft times have been recorded this way. A 1.47sec 60ft time is not too shabby for a street car Most normal skylines would be better suited to find a rpm level that best suits there car, then launch. Fixxxer

Stock rims and a good set of tyres will improve your times a great deal (they are usually lighter aswell). The old rule is that if you can go 0.1 faster to the 60ft mark, you can double the savings at the 1/4mile. So if you go from a 2.4 60ft to a 2.1, you'll be well on your way to knocking over half a second off your 1/4 mile time. CEF11E - Take some pressure out of your tyres, 25psi would be a good place to start, then lower it by 2 or 3psi if your still not happy (make sure you bring a portable air pump to pump them back up for the drive home). I wouldn't go much lower than 18-20psi on normal street tyres. I run 13psi on slicks. The more traction you have the better (as long as the clutch holds up). You can leave with more boost too A good few free revs prior to launch will see you leaving with positive boost pressure. Fixxxer

Have you wired the 2 front and 2 rear speakers to separate channels of the 4 channel amp? Does your 4 channel amp have a protection/overheat mode? And for how long does the amp 'cut-out' for? 2 sec's, 20 sec's, 2mins?? Fixxxer

As mentioned above, what was the 60ft time? Do you get wheelspin off the line, or bog down? A good set of tyres will help rub off lots of ET.

You could have a look at Class D mono channel (1 channel) amps, these are specifically designed for subs (they won't play all frequencies so you can only use them for subs). They are more efficient. Find a Class D mono amp that makes it's best power at 2-ohms, parrallel the subs to the one channel and you'll be on your way. Otherwise find a 4-channel amp, and bridge channel 1&2 to a sub, and bridge channel 3&4 to the other sub. Fixxxer

How are you wiring up the subs? Are they 4-ohm each? You might run into trouble if you decide to parallel the coils from each sub and bridging to the amp, you'll end up running the amp at 1ohm stereo (2ohm MONO) load, and probably shutdown/overheat the amp. Stick with one 4-ohm sub if your going to be using a 2-channel amp, otherwise consider another amp Fixxxer

It'd be a combination of the design and cooling capacity. Have you done much research into water/meth injection? You may find that you don't need an intercooler at all with water/meth injection. Fixxxer