Fixxxer

Just whenever I disconnect my car battery (and lose all settings on the headunit) it always comes back with the 'Sub' light showing on the headunit. I just go into the function/setup of the headunit, and turn the 'Sub' from 'ON' to 'OFF'. By turning it to 'OFF' the sub frequencies are not cancelled out. Fixxxer

Clutch slip is fairly easy to diagnose against wheelspin, with clutch slip the car will go practically nowhere (you won't feel any acceleration), whereas wheelspin you'll still be generally accelerating. A lot of black smoke out the back will be clutch dust. You can usually smell it too if you did a good job. Time for a new clutch if it keeps happening. They usually get worse with time, so see how you go, and if it gets worse then its time for a better clutch. Fixxxer

Have you recently installed this unit and can't get it to work, or did it just stop working one day? I have a problem with my Alpine (due to the original owner using the normal RCA's instead of the specific subwoofer RCA's). When I reset my Alpine head unit, it automatically turns the 'Sub' light on the head unit, which cancels sub frequencies to the subwoofer. It's probably not ur problem, but a possibility. Fixxxer

Ok, so if both the switches (passengers and drivers) arn't moving the window it seems to be a problem with that passenger motor (or similar). Guess you'll have to pull the dorr trim off and see if power is getting to the motor, then work your way back. Fixxxer

Is it your driver's window control of the passenger window, or the actual passenger side window switch? If it's not working, the only thing u can do is pull it out and have a look if anything is loose or if contacts are good. Fixxxer

Problem fixed (by the auto elec.). Ended up being melted/poor connections to the starter motor due to not enough voltage to starter. The starter was removed and serviced and a relay circuit was put in to stop this problem happening again. Fixxxer

Any weight loss of a rotating part will be beneficial. Still, from what I understand, weight is only one factor in the equation, the other is the diameter/distance that weight is located from the source. So a lighter tailshaft may be offset by an increase in diameter of the shaft, i.e., standard 2.5" diameter standard shaft versus a newer lighter but 3" diameter shaft. I guess for tailshafts it would only be a slight increase in diameter and probably wouldn't have much effect going to a larger one..... but in terms of flywheels this is the case. Fixxxer

My front brakes were fine but would squeel like a pig just as the car was coming to a stop. My front rotors were glazed due to overheating and needed to be replaced (too thin to machine). Fixxxer

Ok I will look around the starter motor and see if there is anything wrong with connections. Next I'll check the battery and connections to the battery, but like I said this doesn't seem to be a problem as there is plenty of kick to start the car when the starter works, and this has been a problem ever since I got the car a year and a half ago (with a different battery). Fixxxer

Battery should be fine, its a good battery, I replaced it only about 3 months ago.... It's not like the starter is struggling to start the car, it's like the power is not getting to the starter, and then suddenly i turn the key the right way or something and it fires instantly. Fixxxer

Hey guys, Have had trouble starting my car only sometimes lately. Today it took me about 10 turns of the switch to get the starter motor to turn over the engne. I get in the car, put the key in, turn it past accessories to the 'ON' position I guess, let the fuel pump go for about 5 seconds before turning the key to 'START' and nothing.... just cuts out the radio. Tried it about 7 times, then took the key out, turned it around, did the same thing, did the same thing first attempt, and then on 2nd attempt fired straight away. Has this happened to anyone else? And what could be the causes? Worn out ingition barrel not contacting anymore (I have no idea how it works inside the barrel)? Starter motor contacts bad?? It used to only do it maybe once or twice at most, and only usually every 5 or so times of starting the car (it would usually strart straight away), but yesterday afternoon and today afternoon I had trouble. Any other ideas? Thanks, Fixxxer

The Kicker amp should go fine, it's not optimum, but will do ok. Kicker usually underrate thier amps, the 40WRMSx4 is rated at 12.5volts too, so should put out more when the car is running at 13.8-14v. All in all, since you have this amp already, put it in and see how it goes. It should be fine Fixxxer

WHat is the problem with the switches (or which switch doesn't work?). Have you taken it out to have a look at yet? Some people here might be able to help you solve your problem, otherwise you may just have to look into a 2nd hand unit. Fixxxer

Agreed.... Powder coating is thick and would also act as an insulator. Scratch powder coating as a viable option. Fixxxer

Just buy electrical contact cleaner, do it right first time. I had a pretty dirty/oily AFM when I first got the car, the electrical contact cleaner got rid of it in a flash, and dries within a few seconds. I sprayed it all around the inside of the tube too, cause it was also dirty/slightly oily, ran my finger around the inside after spraying, totally clean Fixxxer

When I started to hear distortion in my car I originally thought I had blown a rear speaker. Turns out it was the sub, the cone had separated from the rubber surround. But really this could be a lot of things. Try another sub if you have one/can borrow one, that will rule out your sub packing it in. Fixxxer

Well No.1 there is a problem with overboosting if it went right past 10psi, actuator staying closed? No.2 Who knows what boost it hit, a combination of relatively cool idle exhaust temps, then a big first gear hit, big boost = big turbo RPM + large exhaust temp change = recipe for ceramic failure. No.3 May have been some damage done to the wheel when installing exhaust, a fracture or complete breakage causing unbalances wheel and it eating itself on the walls of the turbo. Best get a sliding performance turbo if your looking for a cheap 'upgrade' replacement turbo. Fixxxer

Not sure what the M80G is, I have the M80S and its fine. Depends how much you want to spend really, if you want ultrasonic/microwave, its gonna cost you. Fixxxer

The clutch had a sprung centre. Is good for 200rwkw. The flywheel was only very slightly different to the picture as shown, but weighed in at what was said (around 4.8kg). Gearchanges are slightly more clunky when cruising around (slow changes and not getting on throttle slightly early) but with quick changes its magic Either way, you should be happy with either flywheel. Fixxxer

I haven't stalled the car yet with the much heavier/grabbier clutch and the superlight flywheel Whoever says that its easy to stall and hard to take off can't drive. You get used to it after a day or two max., after that its like the car was always like that. Go the superlight Fixxxer

I had one installed, the super lightweight one and its great, much better to drive off boost. I needed to put in my heavy duty clutch at the same time, so while everything was out the flywheel was changed Fixxxer

The Hankook Ventus Z212's sound good (and did well in that car/driver magazine test). The SS595's didn't get that good a review at all from that other link on the previous page. I think I'll be looking at either: Federal SS595, or Hankook Ventus RS-2 Z212 (if they are available yet) Whats the pricing on these tyres, it seems like the SS595's are about $280ea for 235/40/18. Fixxxer

Yes, you "need another 2 rca cables from the hu to connect into my amp, to get the siganl for the rear speakers." You can do this easily by buying 2 splitters (makes 2 RCA plugs from 1 RCA plug) for your current RCA cables. Put a splitter on the end of each RCA you have now, to make 4 RCA's, and your in business. Just remember that when you do this, you will now have 2 x LEFT channel RCA plugs, and 2 x RIGHT channel RCA plugs (instead of the single LEFT and RIGHT RCA plug you have now). So both the RCA's plugs from each 'splitter' should be connected to the 'left' RCA inputs on the amp, and the other 'splitter' RCA plugs should go to both 'right' RCA inputs on the amp. Fixxxer

My amp is mounted onto the back of the seats, in the boot. Easy.

Your connection from the HU to your speakers??? The only speakers you should have hooked up directly to your HU is your front speakers. You should have either: 4 x RCA cables plugged in at the back of your headunit and the corresponding 4 x RCA cables at the other end plugged in to the amp. OR 2 x RCA cables plugged in at the back of your headunit, and have RCA splitters at the other end to make up 4 x RCA connections to the amp. If you do not have either of these setups, then there is NO signal going to you rear channels (the sub will work). You NEED 4 x RCA cables going into the amp inputs. Ohh and turn off or reset any "Fading" you have set on the HU (just incase you set it to 'fade' to the front speakers). Also check the 'Gain' or 'level' settings on Channels 3 & 4 of your amp (should be a little turn nob), turn them 'up' (clockwise) to at least half way to start with. Also check whether you have the high pass HP filter selected on the amp, and have it set around 100 Hertz (Hz). Fixxxer