Fixxxer

I called UAS yesterday and was told the shipment of flywheels had arrived. As far as I am aware, as long as payment has been made, they were going to send them out straight away. Hope I get mine on Friday Fixxxer

If you are lookng for a r34 lightened flywheel give the guys a call (you can get their number from clicking on the order form a few posts above here). They may be able to do that and attach it onto this 'group buy', for a good price..... who knows. Fixxxer

You could disconnect the battery if no one will be around to start it once a while. I got back from overseas a few weeks ago. My battery had gone flat (suspected it was on the way out anyways) because no one tried to start it for about 2 weeks (can't get good help these days ). I was away for a total of about 5 weeks. Threw the new battery in it started straight away, like I hadn't even left. Didn't idle funny, didn't do anything wrong. Fixxxer

I'm with Nismo on this one. Mine would probably only take just over 40L if it above tthe E mark. Once it gets on the E mark its about 45-50L and I can still drive around on the E mark before the warning light shows, which is still 7-8L in the tank I believe. Seriously though, I wouldn't worry until the warning light comes on. Fixxxer

Hey guys, as Beer Baron said, send through your orders ASAP so we can get this group buy going. I called the guys this morning and they are waiting for the group buy orders so they can offer the discounted prices. In other words, they will not send out my lightened flywheel for the discounted price until they have a minimum number of guys paid up. **Beer Baron, please advise the guys who were in the group buy (off the other forum) to send through their order. Thanks all, Fixxxer

Good advice from all. Rotary turbo's are not a good match for piston engines (as in putting a s5 turbo onto a RB20. It will be laggier and doubt it would flow any more than a r33 turbo at similar boost pressures. As another example, in terms of T04 turbo's, I think most piston guys would be running something like a .84 A/R turbine. Rotors would use the 1.00 or 1.15 or even 1.32 A/R turbine because of exhaust flow. I have a T04R turbo sitting next to me, I chose the 1.32 exhaust A/R for good top end on my 13BT. If I stuck it on my RB20, I reckon I wouldn't see meaningful boost until about 5000rpm in 3rd gear Fixxxer

Take it to a mechanic and invariably they will weld the farker on. I tried everything to get mine off, including my filter wrench, which is now useless because I bent it so bad. Hopefully my mate will get it off with his wrench, otherwise its the screwdriver trick, if that fails, an oxy torch hehe. Fixxxer

Ok, well anyways, I just sent through my order for a super light chrome moly flywheel (4.8kg) $450 + $30 freight. Hopefully this will go a long way to getting better off boost response from my R32 GTST. Ohhh and I get to throw in the new clutch while I'm at it. Fixxxer

Hi Beer Baron, I've been looking at getting a lightened flywheel for a while now. I'll know by tomorrow or wednesday latest if I'm in for sure or not, is that ok or too late? Fixxxer

I think there is a DIY thread in the Tutorial/FAQ section. I had similar issues with my headlights not coming on, or only one coming on and it was the switch. Find that thread and it gives you a step by step run through on how to fix it (by elongating the spring). Your alternative is to buy a secondhand switch assembly, for about 50-60 bucks from what I heard. Some idiot had replaced one globe in my car with a 100W bulb rather than the 55W standard, which had, over time melted some wiring and kept melting fuses. I changed this back to a standard replacement globe and funny enough it was actually brighter. Going brighter doesn't mean you have to go up in Watts. You can buy 30% and 50% brighter bulbs at any auto parts store, they are still 55W bulbs, just use a different gas or something for brighter light. I'm happy with the brightness I now have, and it was only like $7 a bulb. Fixxxer

If its an RB20det about 155-160rwkw at 12psi If its an RB20det with R33 turbo about 170-175rwkw at 12psi If its an R33 RB25det around 185-190rwkw at 12psi. That seems to be around the norm I think. Fixxxer

I used H1's when I replaced mine in my 93 R32 gtst. I'm happy with the brightness, was much better than the ones I replaced.

Hey guys, Turns out it was the clutch master cylinder after all, which is being replaced, as is the slave cylinder?? because it was looking dodgy aswell. Not cheap though Fixxxer

Hi guys, thanks for the replies. I've got the car back home now from the city.... 1st gear was almost crunching each time I had to put it into 1st gear, so it seems to be getting a little worse. I had a look in the reservoir next to the brake stuff, the single pot is about 3/4 to the full mark, way above the MIN line, so I'm at a loss as to whats going wrong? Any further advice??? Fixxxer

I'm with Cubes on this one, and is the exact reason I'm going for a lightened flywheel when I change my clutch in the next few months hopefully. The RB20 is a dog for me driving into/out of the city every morning, stop start conditions, and off boost acceleration is very poor. Also of note, what I picked up a few weeks back. The weight of a flywheel is not as important as the distance that weight is from the centre. I believe it is a radius ® squared relationship. Hence a 10kg flywheel with a large part of it's weight on the extremities will be a lot harder to turn than a 10kg flywheel with most of its weight near the centre. This is why you see standard flywheels being lightened with holes/removal of steel as near the extremities as you can get. This has big benefits even though it may only lighten the flywheel by a few kg's. Fixxxer

Hey guys, clutches are something I don't know a lot about. I got into the car this morning and 1st gear was really hard to get into and the car will start to take off immediately after I start to release the clutch pedal upwards. I also noticed that when I put it into second gear (I wanted to do a 2nd gear takeoff cause it was easier to get into than 1st gear) that the car would jump a little forward when engaging 2nd gear (even with my foot totally on the clutch). The clutch itself seems fine, it's not worn out. Do these cars have hydraulic clutches? Do I need to fill some reservoir?? Where do I need to look for that and what type of fluid do I need? Car is a 1993 - R32 GTST - RB20DET Need this fixed before days end cause I have to drive in and out of the city traffic again/stop/start and it's a real pain, it feels like I'm forcing the gears, which can't be good for the gearbox. Fixxxer

Discopotato is right on the money. I guess what you are looking for is a IC that is a compromise between its size and also it's efficiency (thermal and restriction) for a given application. Look, you can buy cheap aftermarket car IC's everywhere these days that offer (well state) good thermal efficiency with low pressure losses. Gone are the days when a truck IC was the only cheap alternative. Fixxxer

If you can get the 2.0sec 60foot time you should make the 13sec quarter on that alone... plus the quicker shifts should net a few more tenths and bring you closer to a 13.7sec pass. Goodluck with it, keep us informed..... Fixxxer

Yes, it's the switch, find the thread about it in DIY section I think. I fixed mine about a month or so ago by elongating the springs, and it's working great. The ultimate solution is to buy a new switch, but I think that is about $200, second hand ones I think you can buy from about $50 from wreckers. Fixxxer

Read the sticky thread on missfiring up the top of the General Maintenance section. Have you checked spark plug gap? You should try 0.8mm gap, using NGK Copper BCPR6ES spark plugs. The thread also mentions steps you take to identify arcing coils, and how you can solve some of those issues. Try these steps first before anything else. Fixxxer

Chuck it on a dyno and see whats going on with the car. As suggested above, get the front pipe+dump done too. Fixxxer

I'm having this problem too, except in R32 GTST guise. Sometimes the car will be 'normal' and idle at 2kg/cm (2bar) and be about 4bar after 3000rpm. But then sometimes after 15-30mins of driving it will slowly make its way down to 1bar at idle, and struggle to go more than 2bar after 3000rpm, which makes me worry. I have seen it go as low as the needle sitting on top of the 0 mark, which is probably like 0.7bar, or roughly 9-10psi. I hope that it is just the sender being dodgy. Fixxxer

I thought mine were pretty crappy too, and I was told that 32 GTST headlights are pretty poor from factory. They also run the power through the switch in the dash, rather than the usual relay, which means more resistance and less voltage getting through to headlights. You have the option of changing to a brighter (whiter) light, these are available at any of the car accessory stores, ie., autobarn, supercheap, repco etc... I just got standard replacement headlight bulbs (H1 - 55W) for my 32 and even they seemed brighter than the old ones I had in there, but there were options to go 30% brighter, and 50% brighter at the store aswell, for a little bit more money. Make sure you still get 55W globes as higher watts does not generally mean it's a brighter light, and will melt fuses and connections in a r32 (trust me I know from experience). Still brighter than that you start to head into the 'blue tinge' type headlights which are probably brighter again, but a fair bit more expensive. Fixxxer

I believe it is 1% power for every 4deg C. I'd still be very interested in seeing a test like I described on the first page, actual temps @ throttle body. An IC will heatsoak faster with higher temps, but the car is usually travelling fast when on boost, and temps will plateau at a certain point (which will be slightly higher with higher intake temps). I agree that a partition will lower temps, but I think people overestimate the benefits "on the street" on a FMIC'd turbo car. If going for a pod, I would at the very least have a cold air feed directed at the pod (which is exactly my setup). Fixxxer

Nice work on the temp logging. I'd be interested to see a comparison between the 3 mentioned above with the temp probe near the throttle body. I would guess a fairly similar result, but less of a difference between the three. Read below. Something to think about, and I'm not totally sure if this is correct (and someone please correct me if it is): The bigger the difference in temperature between 'ambient' and the post turbo/pre intercooler air, the bigger the change in temp (delta) post intercooler will be, i.e., Test 1. Small difference Amb. = 25deg Pre intercooler = 35deg Difference in temp = 10deg Intercooler = (guess) 70% efficient at removing temp = -7deg Air temp post intercooler = 35-7 = 28deg Test 2. Big difference Amb = 25deg Pre intercooler = 55deg Difference in temp = 30deg Intercooler @ 70% = -21deg Air temp post intercooler = 55-21 = 34deg Actual difference between Test 1 and Test 2 (post intercooler) = 6 degrees (not a lot?). Now this doesn't take into account the differences in temp between all the inlet piping either. But I also haven't considered the heat soak this would do to the intercooler, ie., big diffenrence in temps would heat soak the cooler faster, which on a track may not be so great, but giving it a spurt every now and again on the street, or drag race, probably wouldn't be such a factor. All in all, my brain hurts now...... but I think it would be a great test to see the temps just prior to the butterfly. As mentioned above, probably similar results to GTST's temp logging, but maybe less pronounced. Fixxxer