Fixxxer

Great thread, I just modded the headlight switch by elongating the springs slightly, it seems to have done the job and the headlights now switch on (only the parkers would come on last time I drove it). If it plays up again I'll consider getting another switch assembly as suggested. My plastic caps were not melted, just looked like they were worn down a little. It took me 1.5hrs or so, because it was my first go at it, I didn't take off the steering wheel which made it a little trickier and I couldn't get the surround totally off because I couldn't get the plug off that goes to the stereo switches right next to the windscreen wipers switch, would not budge at all, even using a screwdriver as leverage. The rest of the plugs came off relatively easy. Should only take me 30-40mins next time. Fixxxer

Yes, use a feeler gauge to measure the gap, and either find a place to squish the tip against another surface or tap it on a surface, always checking again with the feeler gauge to see how close you are to 0.8mm. You don't need much effort to bring them closer so don't go crazy. Conversely, do the right thing in the first place, and buy plugs that are already gapped at 0.8mm, saves you the hassle. Fixxxer

So can anyone put a price on the wolf3d and the Microtech LT12s (plus plug and play adapter) Fixxxer

In QLD at least, a blue tinge is not considered to be a "blue" light and is not defectable. In my R32 Type M '93 I just replaced the headlights with H1's (55W of course) and I replaced the park light that had died with a W5W - which is a 12V - 5 Watt standard bulb. Funnily enough, the W5W parker bulb cost $6 on its own, when all the other parker bulbs (12V with slightly less watts) were 2 for $5 of $6, what a rip! Some idiot before me put in a H1 - 100W Rally light in my headlight, instead of a normal 55W, it kept melting the fuse at the fuse box, and also melted the plastic around the globe itself. Let it be known to everyone, just because it's higher in watts, doesn't mean it's brighter. The new H1 55W I put in, is a lot brighter, and I now have good headlights, whereas before I could hardly tell I had my headlights on sometimes. Fixxxer

Hi everyone, Over the past few months I've noticed on the odd occasion that there is sometimes a little pool of coolant under the car (near the front of the engine). Just recently (the last 4 times I've started the car) the temperature gauge has sat under the C mark (where it normally sits when cold) for about the first 5-10mins of driving, then suddenly will move up quickly to the middle of the gauge where it normally sits. Usually the engine comes up to temperature slowly as is usual in all cars. Is the gauge shooting up fast a bad thing?? Is it associated with my off and on leak sometimes? Is a new water pump in order?? My car has done 165,000 k's, doesn't get hot (always stays in the middle of the gauge). Fixxxer

Mine is stuck on so tight I bent the filter wrench I have, so I'm just going to get my mechanic to do the old screwdriver trick for me. Saves me a little money and when the new filter goes on, I'm making sure its on hand tight (+ 1/4 turn cause I can't get a great grip on it) AT MOST! This means I probably won't even have to use any sort of filter wrench/socket/whatever to remove it next time. I'd like to slap around the moron who put the filter on before I bought the car. Fixxxer

Do the small things first, I had iridiums in my 32 and they missfired like crazy, swapped them for normal copper BCPR6ES plugs, gapped at 0.8mm and solved the missfiring issue (apart from a slight miss at idle). Do it. 'Nuff said. Fixxxer

I have no idea about the knocking sound or the voltage, but you are running 0.8mm gapped plugs right? Your signature says 12psi, you'll need them gapped down to run that psi. Fixxxer

I'd do your first run as a test to see how much wheelspin you get. If its too much (a little wheelspin can be beneficial) then drop the pressure. I wouldn't go lower than 20psi really on a street tyre, try around 25psi and see how you go. Fixxxer

Hmmm, 10A is a bit low, if you start blowing fuses with the 10A then look for something that better matches your amp's fuse rating. As was stated by Danielson, put the fuse as close to the battery as possible. As far as I remember from competitions (soundoffs and such) you must have the fuse within 30cm/12inches of the battery to enter. Fixxxer

The amp will have a fuse itself. Use a fuse rating similar (if not the same) as what the amp uses. For a 250WRMS amp, it'll probably be a 20-30amp fuse on the amp, have a look. Fixxxer

Just go for the biggest you can fit into the stock position. I'm not sure what they recommend, but anything around the 400+ CCA should be fine. Fixxxer

I think mine cost $75 at 101 Motorcafe in Brissy, which I thought was a little high, but they gave me 2 different dyno printouts I specifically asked for, had another mechanic check for any pinging, did timing check and sat down with me after to answer any questions I had, which I had a few. Not so bad for that I think. Fixxxer

I'm sure Autospeed did an article a number of years ago, or maybe it was a tech article in a magazine I read. Essentially the stock intercooler (on R32's at least) as we all know are only designed to handle a specific flow rate, above that restriction sets in. The R32 SMIC performed badly after boost was raised/power increased, I think somewhere in the region of dropping 3-4psi more than a larger FMIC. The larger FMIC allowed more flow with less resistance (more efficient) and is probably a fair bit more efficient in lowering intake temps = more power again. I'd say get a FMIC, you may have a little extra lag, but up top there should be good gains, at least on vehicles manufactured with tiny intercoolers such as R32 GTST, R33 GTST, 200sx's, etc. Fixxxer

I didn't think R32's had rich and retard like R33's do?? Like others have said, get a front mount intercooler, the stock one is very restrictive at high boost (high airflow). Next step you could throw on a R33 turbo for around $500, and then look at computers to manage it. Fixxxer

Hey there, You can do it both ways as you stated in your post. If you have output RCA's from your amp then just use those, but its just as easy to get some splitters. The signal will be exactly the same. Fixxxer

Yeah, throw in as big a battery as you can. The odyssey batteries can be good for stereo's but they have been plagued in the past by faults, and drain quickly if you have a alarm and leave the car for more than a few days without starting. I don't think I have ever heard of anyone complain about Optima batteries, extremely reliable and won't drain if you don't start the car for a few days (great reserve capacity RC). Otherwise, just grab a normal car battery with largest CCA rating u can to fit. Fixxxer

Also, just looking at your dyno graph. Air temp was 17deg's and your intake temp was 37deg's. That seems like a large jump to me, considering you have a FMIC. To give you an idea, my run, on 12psi showed something like 30deg air temp and 34deg intake temp, a jump of only 4degrees. Fixxxer

Have u checked the cat is still intact or something else isn't blocking the exhaust?? Seems like a massive restriction to me, boost dropping off badly and very flat graph.... Fixxxer

I use McGuires Soft Gel Wash and use the McGuires polish afterwards if polishing the car. Always comes up nice. Then it rains a day or two later, wrecks the whole job and makes the chrome rims dirty again.... then I give up and leave the car dirty and wait for the next batch of rain to make it look semi-respectable again..... Fixxxer

It seem like the usual missfiring issues. Was it a cold night compared to when u normally drive? I've found boost does go up in colder weather. Turn boost down to the usual 0.7 bar and see if it does it, if it doesn't missfire on 0.7bar then it sounds like a usual spark plug/coils missfire. I had iridiums (that were mega worn though) and mine used to missfire like mad at not much more than stock boost. I changed to normal copper NGK's at 0.8mm and the miss totally disappeared (apart from a slight miss at idle, which is another story). Fixxxer

Its got everything done to already. Full 3" exhaust, EBC, pump, FMIC, Pod, etc.... Only thing it doesn't have is a stand-alone computer, its chipped though. Fixxxer

My car sounds like all hell is breaking loose at 3000rpm and above so its not an option really (and why I change early). I don't want to quieten down the exhaust and lose exhaust flow either. If I want to overtake then its just a gear change away anyways. But for normal everyday driving I wonder if its worth spending $$$ on one (I don't even know who sell them and how much it costs anyways) Fixxxer

Hey there, I was reading the other thread about lightweight flywheels and got to thinking. I have a R32 GTST with RB20 + R33 turbo. I'm not super happy with the off boost, in-gear response. I do the vast majority of my driving in the "idle to 2500rpm" zone (zero boost mostly), i.e., changing gears at less than 2500rpm. In this area the car feels quite slow and doughy (obviously) which I guess is also not helped by the R33 turbo. Would it be worthwhile buying a lightweight flywheel? I already have a PBR/Clutch Industries H/D clutch under my bed ready to go in. Who sells them????? Thanks for your help. Fixxxer

Price Drop** Still Brissy buyer preferred.