SiR_RB

The only way we could stop voltage going to them was by turning the isolating switch off / disconnecting the battery terminal

Actualy think it was showing 12-13v so would assume constant ?

Since i got my new GTR I noticed with ignition off, the injectors were making a buzzing sound and showing 6-8v, today we spent all day trying to find the issue, what we came up with so far: Disconnect ecu and injectors still have power Disconnect ECC relays behind ecu, injectors still showing power Disconnect each relay in engine bay one at a time, no luck Battery is in the boot and has an isolation switch in the engine bay. If we turn that off they dont get power and everything is good (as expected) Has anyone experienced this before ? Is there anything else I can check ?

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Agreed

I've been advised against Holley dominator pumps as they had a lot fail recently That's straight from aftermarket industries and Jez

6266 0.84 t4 divided Best street turbo in my opinion on a built 2.6 (driven heaps of different combos) Now I have a hks 2.8 and 7175 precision yet to be tuned

Pics of brembos and discs ?

I had 450kw at 25psi boost with single walbro 460 pump tuned by dvs jez Ran 140mph so power is there ! I'm going to try those 2 deatschwerks 350il pumps in afew weeks il let you know how I go

Aslong as they Arnt louder then an 044 win win

Anyone used or herd about the new deatschwerks 350 inline external fuel pump (direct replacement for Bosch 044) Flows 300lph at 70psi @ 13.8volts Bosch 044 is around 250lph at that psi Comes with 3 year warranty and is e85 compatible http://www.deatschwerks.com/products/fuel-pumps/in-line-fuel-pumps/dw350il-universal-in-line-fuel-pump-detail

Got a mate running over 700kw and over 300kmh at snowy mountains with an OS gearset lol It's starting to whine abit now though

Yeh Definetly needs machining

I still can't find anyone in Sydney to do this for me and I been to engine reconditioners, been sent to engineers Can anyone help me please, I prefer someone I'm Sydney

I'm also looking for a box upgrade lol

I have a OS giken triple plate clutch, hasn't done too much work as the clutch plates still measure 4mm each in thickness Now I noticed, like all used clutches, that the flywheel and plates have slight heat marks/hot spots Would it be ok to get them ground/machined then reassemble and bolt it back in the car, or will this cause issues and I should just leave it the way it is ? Just want to make sure it's correct now before I install it Thanks

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Selling my Nismo g-max twin plate clutch Pull type Around 5000kms old Drives beautiful !! It will be coming out of the car this weekend so il post up photos then $1000 pick up from Sydney Can post aus wide at buyers cost

I got the car with no air con when I bought it, after stripping the engine bay for a respray I sourced all the AC parts to install back in, Now it has a PWR radiator with a custom shroud and spal thermo, which I just found out, is been powered by the AC fan wiring, so now I have to power source for the AC fan... I was thinking of using the AC fan cable as per factory, but then I'm stuck with a thermo fan with no power How do I go about wiring the thermo fan to a relay of some sort and back to the ecu (the thermo currently is been activated by the ecu, not a temperature sensor on the bottom of the radiator) If anyone has a diagram or can point me in the right direction to get this wired up that would be great

Pretty sure there was one for sale maybe afew pages back

Great ecu I have the same one

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