conan7772

How's this.. I emailed Nistune Developments about the M35 and AFM failure frequencies here. No one there ever heard of AFMs blowing up due to modifying and/or tuning, nor of M35 issues. They thinks it's a design fault somewhere and sounds like it could be getting more voltage than it needs through it's power supply. Suggested regulating the power source or try a GTR AFM.. Anyway worth a try.

my bar only has the lateral locks on the inner side of the bushes. getting it checked out tomorrow It's so bad I can made it knock by rocking the car with my hands weird, it all felt rock solid, see what happens up on the hoist

yep looks fine, links are good. probably ball joints

After fitting the sway bars: tighten up one thing, another shits itself.. the car was feeling perfect, tight and quiet. now there's are massive knock and it feels shithouse again. Loose front end. I put it up on ramps, jacked up each side, shook everything, can't find it. if I swerve front left to right quickly I can make it knock on every turn. then it keeps on knocking until the car stops swaying. great,,,, off to the shop again

yeah I get it but I'm not convinced. stock BOV will affect spool time. not an option for me..

oh and do a HID conversion, cause the factory headlights suck ass

Did you notice instant shudder after putting in the grub screw on the stock BOV ? Is it just the extra 2 psi causing this.. Doubt it. The stocker must open much more easily then, than the Turbosmart... Have a look at the Greddy FV valves ( floating valves) They are supposed to open much quicker than single spring. The only thing is the 40mm outlet, having trouble finding a 40-30 reducer

The stock sway bars are almost useless, and the bushes will probably be worn too. SuperPro make some solid bars, huge improvement for $250 each. For me, I like the comfortable stock suspension, though I've never driven one with BC's. Careful choosing hardness if you do, it's a heavy car and the shock mounts rip out from fatigue.

Yeah all the way anti-clock, means it opens at 3psi. I just read somewhere you're supposed to wind 3 clicks off the bottom. I had it wound all down, maybe causing the ball to catch in the boost-t. Seems better now, But I'm pretty sure the vac lines are leaking. You can pull them off easily without pressing the clamps. Got some silicone hose and worm drive clamps coming.

You'd think the resonator would improve it, that's it's purpose to absorb pulses. Anyway, Changing the intake with an AMPerformance soon. Hoping it will better. Might give the floating valve type BOV a go. I suspect the shudder is caused by the BOV valve bouncing up and down on the spring.

One good BOV was the Apexi dual chamber, but it was atmo only. One chamber for low boost, the other for high. Curious why most are single now...and simpler

yeah I'll start by changing all the vac line with silicone tube and hose clamps. found a small split, cut it back but still losing boost somewhere. I do have a compressor, how do you block off the intake to pressure test ? Where's the best place to connect compressor. 'cheers

yep checked it, no restrictor. I'm blown away how smooth and comfortable the M35 is to drive. The shudder really spoils this for me. Maybe the re-circ port is too close to the AFM ? Or do you think the shudder is reversion through the turbo ?

Hmm okay, have put in the soft spring in the Turbosmart Plumb back, still have shudder but not as violent. Haven't tested it on freeway driving yet which is the worst, but still expect a bit. Anyone tried the Greddy floating valve type- dual spring ? Also huge price difference in the Turbosmart dual port and Greddy FV style. I know stock BOV or lowering the boost will sort it out, but I want to run high boost if I can.

The other day was on boost then suddenly lost all, black smoke galore. I've checked all the hoses for leaks, they seem ok. Turbo still spools but not as quickly. I have a Turbosmart boost-t with the gate still in, wound all the way down. It sounded like the gate stuck, then suddenly let go, surging the shit out of the actuator. Is it possible this surge damaged the diaphram ?

So looking at Nistune AFMs, they're horsepower rated. See the drop down list in upgrading your maf options on Nistune website.( Nistune MAF Technical Notes) The various cars are listed with max horsepower. I'm assuming our AFM is 330 hp. So if you do install a Nistune HPX AFM , do you need the Nistune daughter board and software to calibrate it ? Or can the E-Manage do it. There are several models of the HPX that need scaling down... Oh and it says hard pipe intakes are better than soft pipe, so there goes my vibration theory ! Wasn't my theory anyway remember. Haha Need to sort this AFM issue out. I want 400hp at the crank and a trouble free car. This is an important thread, gotta keep it alive .

Yep sure, not dismissing any possibilities, just thought it was worth mentioning. All parts have a life span, however it appears to be a more common problem with modified intakes. The fact that you have two spares is my point. It shouldn't be necessary. I found that info on a 2004 discussion where someone was testing them on various intakes in WRXs. Hard pipe intakes and vibration was their conclusion for all the failures. Just something to consider, if they are that fragile, even changing out your air filter with a heavy hand could damage it. Maybe it could be as simple as adding some brackets to the afm mount or air box. Mine moves around heaps. Worth experimenting with don't you think

I've been searching for answers on why there are so many blown afms. An article on WRXs mentioned excessive vibration as the proven culprit. Aftermarket intakes are generally all alloy transferring more vibration and shudder back to the afm. I guess that's why the upper half of the stock intake is rubber. I have an AMPerformance intake to shortly fit, and will try to mate the bottom half only with the stock top half.

Just finally fitted the SuperPro sway bars front and back. Massive improvement. Went the biggest sizes and put them on the tightest setting straight away. Well worth it

350Z Track (Brembo) kits fit but you need the bigger rotors and 18 inch wheels too. Not sure about the Touring.

I'm assuming 82mm ID or 3.25' Can anyone confirm ? cheers

My rubber coupler blew completely off today, so I guess the high flow is working. It looks a bit short and old so want to replace it with a silicone one. Vernier says 90mm external. Whats the correct internal diameter I should get ? cheers

wise guys hey

I'm really enjoying driving around in this and especially the near dead silence within the cabin, all except for the exhaust of course which I don't mind. Any know the flow rate of the OEM fuel pump and it's awkw capacity ? Really don't want any pump whine if I can do without it. cheers

I was looking at the SS1 but Craig stumbled across one of Scotty's old high flows. ATP did for him a while ago. I'm very happy with it, still with stock ECU. Acceleration is way stronger. Spools up very close to stock, ramps up a little slower until 3000 then keeps on going. All I know about it is : High Shaft Speed design Balanced by Garrett Bush bearing. Scotty might be able to give more info on it. The car is way better to drive ,as before the stock turbo with Scotty's dump and sports exhaust, the car was too sensitive on throttle taking off and reversing. Now the boost comes on initially a little later and softer, then ramps up f%##@$ quick . After Christmas I'm thinking of going the HDI Max-rom path. Many thanks to Craig and Scotty.