conan7772

No, not two tone, just comes on with brakes. Two tone you'll need two sets of leds ? I wouldn't do it anyway, cops might argue if it's on all the time people may mistake it for a brake light and brake suddenly.

Check out Rotas. Option1 sells them here on the forums. I got 18 x 9.5s all round for $1350 in the P-45R delivered They're even cheaper now cause of Aussie dollar. + 25 is best offset for GTS-T Ideal fitment is 8.5's for the front but I wanted the dish. I reckon chrome or silver Grids for Gunmetal car

+1 Mine is red and only comes on with the brake lights. I've had coppers behind me at lights many times. No problems so far. If I do get pinged, My argument would be, to remind drivers behind me :it's a Skyline so back off : you're only gonna lose anyway !

So did I, WRX blue ! But that's as close as I'll ever get to a Subaru. Left over paint anyway. Do you think I've ruined my car ??? or made it slower ..

Sounds like he's been sniffing Nulon a bit too much.

Kudos Motorsport in the Gold Coast have new ones in stock. $467 + $30 del. Master alone. There's a wrecker in Greenacre, has an old one for $200 in fair condition. I reckon parts will become very hard to get soon after what Japans been through. You can order recon kits for the BM57 but right now it's a 12 week wait. The kits are $260. Then you have to pay for a specialist on top to hone and fit.

Yeah I've bought a brand new BM57. You reckon pedal effort will increase without bigger booster ?

It certainly is quite amusing owning a Skyline. Everybody wants to drag, even some twat in a beaten up old Hiace. One day, after a days skiing , I came back to my car in Perisher car park to find a babys bottle full of milk left right in front of my car. I quite liked that. Another day, at a set of red lights and a horde of pedestrians crossing in front, an old guy about 80, placed his hands together like he was praying and bowed to me. Might have had something to do with my plates which were GOD-51E at the time. One day I drove to a wedding and parked right in front of the church just for laughs. But I was the only one laughing. Jealousy is definitely the main reason for blokes, probably kw related, and as for chicks that I know who hate my car, they are just scared shitless of accellerating so fast.

I thought travel/feel is more booster related anyway ? And master cylinder more related to stopping quicker. I may be wrong, don't know. Can anyone please tell me what to expect with the larger diameter booster, or is it a waste of time and money. cheers

I hated it with a passion. Best thing I ever did was remove it. 15kg of crap I'd rather do without. I found it blunderous, unpredictable and dangerous. Get rid of it and stick in a mech diff. Then you've got a real rear wheel drive car.

You're right. I have the sports kit. It's not coil overs. SK also bundled full race kits. Sports Kit : Springs , sway bars and bushes are Whiteline. Springs are 25 % stiffer than stock but Whiteline don't make them any more. Shocks are matched Bilsteins. SK told me I could convert to full race by fitting coil overs and keeping the Bilsteins. But I'm happy with where it is. SK certainly got it right. Awesome ride for Aussie roads.

I have GTR brakes, and I reckon the BM44(Gtst)master doesn't have the capacity. Pedal feel has always been long and spongy.

I have R33 GTR brakes on my GTS-T, but we never changed the master cylinder to a BM57. Now it seems I have a little leak in my seals so I'll get the GTR master cylinder fitted. We've also noticed the GTR booster is bigger then GTS-T. Is it worth changing this too ? Looking at the clutch master cylinder, it's very close already and may have to be moved. Anyone know if the GTR booster will go in GTS-T without dramas. cheers

Yeah , boost drop was the actuator, large can fixed that. Flat lines 21 now, but injectors are maxed

No, still on 98Ron pump fuel. Don't think I'll ever go E85, I like the current setup too much. Injectors are 570 top feed on custom rail, not 550. Drives economically and idles like a kitten. 3.5 exhaust is tempting, but probably pointless with stock manifold, plus Db exhaust levels will increase. There is a temp probe on the cold side. Intercooler is fully custom made,was on it when I bought the car. One reason why I'm looking at new ones is I'm assuming my existing one is full of oil again, after massive surge through PCV last track day. Oil was dripping out my BOV for 6 weeks, so I reckon is was drawn back into the cooler. Already had it pulled out and flushed before, may as well replace it. PCV now blocked. Not really after more power gains, just curious if low down response and spool will improve. Might try and jam a 100mm one in.

forget the 35/40 - old technology go the new Garrett GTX series 3076 it's rated at 640 hp and spools quicker than the GT series. MUCH better to drive- response, power delivery etc. Bolts to stock manifold

Yeah, the capacitor does require a trigger wire from accessory, otherwise it won't turn on. Weird though, current still draws even though it's off. A relay should sort it out, but I'm not sure where it goes in the sequence

I'm in rb25/30 dyno results. Mods are listed.

+25 is probably ideal offset. +30 I had to grind away my upper control arms a tad to get full lock, but all good +20 will get your tyres too close to the guards, scrub issues I think, even with rolling if you're buying new, wheel supplier should give you hubcentric rings to suit,otherwise they'll already be knocked in With the plastic guard liners, only cut away a small area that's required as opposed to removing the whole thing. Keep that water away as much as possible, looms will get soaked and she might start rusting in areas you can't see.

I've got a current drain in the boot, and I'm pretty sure the capacitor is draining my battery along with my boot light which doesn't turn off as we found out today. Anyway, the capacitor, and both amps are in the boot and currently wired as shown. My head unit has a faulty trigger out so it's bypassed, just looped it off accessory in. Trigger wire goes to amp 1, then loops to amp2, then loops again to the cap. They all share a common ground bolt connection along with the battery. Power supply first goes to the capacitor as it has a nice fat terminal that accommodates 3 x 8mm wires, and star wires out to the amps. A horrible pop sometimes comes out of the speakers when the stereo is switched on. I guess I need to fit a 40amp relay somewhere in the wiring sequence shown, and possibly have them looping in the correct order. Any help, appreciated. cheers

Currently have standard gtr intercooler 50mm or so , with 2.5 inch piping on both sides. Turbo has 4 inch inlet , plenum is 3 inch. Exhaust is 3 inch right through off stock manifold. 337rwkw now. If I went 80mm intercooler and 3 inch piping, what would I expect. cheers

What's the best option to get one of these ? Buy a used one, stick it in and see how it goes at 200 kph Buy a used one and get it reconditioned. Buy a used one , buy a kit from Japan, then send it off to get overhauled/ assembled Buy a new one. Deliveries from Japan right now are seriously disrupted, can't guarantee delivery dates. Not really in a rush. Have to say I'm surprised how much they are considering what they are. Wreckers want $200 for a used one. 16 years old . f&*% cheers

You can have my old one for free if you want it. I'm in Sydney. I put in a Nismo, so have all bearings , internals and short shafts. Just sitting in a box in my garage.

also will it fit my current brake booster bm44 ? cheers

Hi, 10 years ago I bought my GTS-T for $22400. It had 40000 kms on it. Big money isn't it? GTRs were $45000 and up Anyway it had a high flowed turbo, front mount intercooler and a Haltech ECU. Also had a very nice sound system, subs , MOMO steering wheel, full gtr body kit and 17 inch Stern rims. It had 247 fwkw at the time which is more than the GTR at 228. So not knowing all the differences I bought it. It was awesome to drive. However, it was not tuned right. So in the end I cracked a piston. I'd recommend getting one rebuilt with forged internals, one that has been a pride and joy and is probably being sold due to a baby on the way or a purchase to a first home. Also look for a decent power output, one that you'll be happy with. If you can avoid sending in the car for work you'll save thousands, maybe even ten thousand. Anyway, you'll find they are actually very cheap to maintain. Putting aside an engine rebuild , everything is available second hand by the abundance. The scope of mods available is massive. There's virtually nothing you can't upgrade. So if something goes wrong, the options available are many. One thing I can say is the series 2 gearboxes are stronger than series 1. Try and source used Brembos off a GTR. Stock suspension is crap, need's a sports kit/bushes. Don't go full race if you use it daily. Small interior trims etc easy off Just Jap or here on the website. What you need in the end is a good strong car and a good mechanic. IT'S ALL IN THE TUNE. Get it tuned right and you're on the way to having an awesome trouble free ride.