conan7772

That's probably the best R33 I've ever seen. I really like that front spoiler with the matt black lower lip. Who makes that ? If you want to keep it to yourself, I get it.

this is why.. that's a 3076 on a 25/30 PICT0001.WAV PICT0005.WAV

If you have the N1 oil pump, chances are your head won't drain quick enough, even with the additional rear drain. RB's are notorious for this, also one reason why so many Rb26's lose the main bearing. I have RB25/30 with N1 pump, all oil feeds left unblocked, and no rear drain. On my last track day , on hard left turns, my right side rocker cover filled up with oil, then the PCV spewed it all into my plenum and back out through my BOV all over the track. Then again on acceleration out of the corner I had so much blue smoke, couldn't see the car behind me. Oil dripped out the BOV for the next 6 weeks, and it probably sucked back into my intercooler too. Block off your PCV at the least, and save your engine. So when you do set up a can, as rice says, make it catch oily vapour too, keep that shit out of your intercooler. Do the stainless steel wool gig, every bit helps.

I went for Fusion splits for fronts and 6 x 9 for rears. Great power handling, and accuracy. I have some HD cd sources which my head unit supports, and the reproduction is brilliant. Considering Fusion aren't really considered high end, I'd put them there. You need to demo them with a good source and a decent amp. What to get for your money is amazing.

18 x 9.5 + 30 will hit your front upper control arms on full lock, not by much though. I have these and ground out a notch in my UCA's to clear. Only from the back stiffening flanges. Plenty of over engineering there, especially as they're in compression most of the time. I think Joey has + 25 all round with no scrub. Previously had Sterns. Front were 17 x 8.5 + 40 I have R33 GTR 324mm Brembos and had 2mm clearance between spokes and calipers. With the 18 Rotas, I have more than 10mm clearance.

I went for the Nismo Pro GT TT 1.5 way from Hi Octane Racing. Cost was $1620. Love the predictability after the stock Viscous with 300 rwkw +. Single spun so hard once almost flipped it. I can't say from experience but the Nismo is supposed to be the smoothest of them all plus it has initial torque adjustability. Low, Med, High . Factory setting is medium. Medium was too tight for me, so I had it adjusted down to low. No difference in immediate lock, just comfortably looser on cornering. Plus, adding life to the diff. As it loosens in time, just have it set up a level to restore tightness.

I'd put a capacitor in for sure with all that power. Made a huge difference in my car. My headlights used to dim to the music before, not anymore. The bass immediately was cleaner, smooth and punchy. Also, are all your power cables nice and thick 8-10mm , not to mention speaker cabling should be 3-4mm min.

Do you allow the pump to prime for a couple seconds before you kick it over ? Also don't pump the pedal ever when starting a fuel injected engine.

3.0 + poncams + 3076R = But if you want the most out of it, Disco is right. Go the 1.06 rear and 650 cc or larger inj.

I think MTQ fit theirs with the larger unported shroud comp cover, different turbine wheels and in between sized rear housing. Reports say its less responsive. If you want the 3076R, go the genuine Garrett specs as per their website. GCG sell it unchanged. TweakIt sell full kits.

Just checked my tyre pressures for the first time with my new tyres. I have 235 40 18 KU36's on the front and 255 rear, fitted to 18 x 9.5's all round. I was surprised to see 38 psi in all 4 from Jax tyres fitters. Is it normal to have high psi for stretched walls ? cheers

I hope you're kidding. The PS2000 is capable of so much. There's not many people around that can tune the Haltech to it's potentials. It's worth going to a specialist who can really fine tune it for you. Not only will you get optimum power, but fuel economy and smooth operation. If you're in Sydney, see Justin at Tweakit in Mona Vale. He is head mechanic plus an ex-Haltech engineer. Haltech is on the back of his hand. I gained 60 engine kw from my first tune with him without touching the engine , and that was with the E6K ! The E11's were used in Indy cars and the PS2000 is way above that again. Full sequential ignition and temp induction probes for starters. You've already spent $2K on the ECU now make it work man.

I'm going to have a look at an R34 coming over from Japan soon. It is supposed to be a genuine M-Spec Nur, only 253 made. What should I look for to ID it. What do ripple control dampers look like ? How do I tell an N1 engine from standard ? Where would I find a registry with chassis numbers etc matching it's build number? Any other ideas? cheers.

I wish someone would make an aftermarket climate control unit for the R33. Cause they are total rubbish. Mine is either Hot as hell or freezing- have to keep turning it on and off to keep the cabin comfortable. Also all my gas is gone come every November and can't find the leak.

I've never seen one that colour before. Looks outstanding.

Isn't that symbol known as the emissions icon. There are sensors monitoring this somewhere. Dirty fuel /water causes this to appear. Try a bottle of Wynns spit fire with your next fill up, and stay away from the Servos you've been using for a while. Might take a while to stop appearing. Better have a minor service and have the fuel filter changed.

http://www.drive.com.au/used-cars/NISSAN/S...335564&pt=1

I've spotted a Millenium Jade GTR for sale on Drive.com.au R34 M-Spec Nur with only 25000 km's, asking $75000. There's only 250 world wide. Isn't this too cheap for what it is. There's another black one in NZ going for $150000 If my wife would allow it, I'd be off to Aussie tomorrow. Who elso thinks this is a bargain ?

pretty mild stretch, looks good. watch your front offsets with the 9.5's, they might touch your upper control arms on full lock. do a dry fit without tyres if you can

Planning on a holiday over to Tasmania next March and want to take the car on the boat. Heaps cheaper than flying, plus hire cars suck. Should the unfortunate event occur of a breakdown, it would be handy to have a couple contacts. cheers

I believe the PCV is the culprit for spewing oil into the plenum whilst decellerating on a hard left hand turn. RB's are notorious for this on the track. I had a plume of smoke after turn 1 at Eastern crk big enough to blind the car behind me, never mind the oil all over the track. Then oil dripped out my BOV for the next 6 weeks, which is mounted underneath just after my intercooler and up hill. Proving to me the oil came from the plenum side. I have N1 oil pump and no ext return though. Even for 100 % street use, the engine will still vent sufficiently through the turbo.

Car R33 GTS-T with R33 Brembos (324mm fronts) with Green EBCs Moderately pleased with them but not thrilled. Is it possible and easy to mount the front rotors and calipers to the rears. Looking at a pair of race spec fronts. Or is it not worth the trouble considering there's bugger all weight at the back anyway. Cheers.

I bought tuner style wheel nuts on ebay for $32. Hex drive They were advertised as alloy but they are chrome steel and now rusting after 1 month. Go the JDMs from Taleb tyres

Not many Skylines sadly, but there's so many top quality pics here. www.netcarshow.com Here's an example.