conan7772

I tried 17 x 9.5 + 35 on the front of my R33 GTS-T and they hit the control arm on full lock. No good. Would even hit before full lock whilst cornering. Perfect flush fit though.

Bugger, there are no 10's in the P-45R

I'm looking at a set of Rota P-45R's 18x9.5 + 35 front with 235 40 18 and 18x9.5 + 30 rear with 255 35 18 or should I go 18x10 + 35 rear with 255 35 18 only lipping guards

Which bronze is on the blue Lancer, normal or sports ? cheers

Just curious in the difference between 17 45 235 and 18 40 235 Tyre height and rollin circumference cheers

Cheers, Powder coating isn't available in metallics though is it ? Also, it'll probably get up there close to a new set. $$ I've got a bit of dish so the spokes are inboard a fair bit. Can't see any stone chips anywhere, just heavily scratched from cleaning/weathered. They do buff up ok, but I really want bronze. How many layers of colour and clear do you suggest? cheers

I've heard mixed reports about spacers. Some guys say there's no issues, some say just get the rims with the right offset. There's only a couple rims I really like and will cost over $2k. For now I'd rather put that into tyres. I currently have 17 inch Sterns 235+35 and 255+37. I'm pretty sure this seems to be the ideal offset for legal fitment. My camber is relatively mild and the top edges of the tyres sit about 13mm inside the guards. I'm about to recondition these rims with a repolish and repaint and wouldn't mind having the tyres flush at the tops, and maybe have zero camber on the rears for optimum traction as this IS the biggest issue with the GTS-T. I can get 5 mm floating spacers or 15mm bolt ons. Just wondering if anyone can explain the difference in handling I might expect with those 2 options.

I want to respray my Sterns to a bronze spoke. I've been told by one bloke to use acrylic, then finish with clear enamel. Another guy says acrylic won't stand the heat and have to use enamel through and through. What about 2 pack poly ? If 2 pack can handle the heat on rocker covers, should be ok for wheels ? I want to do it all myself. cheers

She looks ready for the Paris to Dakar !

5.1 with Hankook K104's Crap tyre for off the mark accelleration.

Check you haven't crossed polarity on one of your speakers ( crossing - and +) This can cause amps to do very weird things. My mechanics crossed my subs when they re-installed them. My wiring is all clear sheathing with a microscopic print on one. Took me ages to find the problem. Almost put my fist through my head unit !

I'm looking to space out my Sterns another 10-12 mm so the tyres sit dead flush with the guards. Where can you buy them ? Are there any dangers with less thread in contact on the studs/nuts ?

wouldn't it be better just to change tyre wall height to lower the front a bit ?

no mate, I'm trying to get 0-100 in under 4 secs.

Always a good idea to put a little extra weight in the boot of a rear wheel drive Skyline. Mind you.. If I get a flat , I've got to disconnect 6 channels of speaker wiring, disconnect all power and earth supplies to 2 amps, unplug six rca inputs, pull out the main amp and base it's screwed to, remove both my sub boxes, pull out the second amp that does the fronts, and leave all this on the road. Just to get to my spare. Then with a 255 in the boot, it'll all have to go in the back seat until the space saver spare goes back in. Imagine if it is raining. Wouldn't have it any other way !

I've seen a few gettin around with bigger rear than front rims. What's the advantage ? Especially on a GTS-T, wouldn't there be less traction with a bigger rim ?

Yeah I'm interested in the NT05's, can't find anyone selling them in Sydney though. I'm guessing the Competition range will be way out of my price range.

Here's one for the R35 ! 24k gold alligators If I was a pimp, these would be the ones.

I've got my Jack but no brace or hook. I've got Sterns and a standard wheel brace doesn't fit. I bet one of the tyre shops lost it over the years. Just as well I never got a flat out in the country at dark. I vaguely remember seeing a pouch under the rear seat, but maybe that was one of my other cars, can't remember now and I can't get the seat out. Usually just unbolts and pulls up but seems to be caught somewhere. Definitely not in the boot anywhere. cheers

I'm thinking of refurbishing my rims by pulling the spokes off the alloy rim. The alloy is bare now and constantly has water spots. I want to polish the alloy up to mirror and coat it in clear. The spokes are faded silver paint, I want to respray them in a dark bronze. Are spray packs ok for this ? cheers

New 1.5 way diff installed last week. Did the figure 8's and oil dump. Did 300 km's without going over 70 km's and used throttle gently as. Now done 500 km's and it's still very tight. Going around corners steadily with moderate throttle it clunks causing the rear end to twitch. No problems with heaps of throttle. Does this sound normal ? Cheers

Yep ok I'm sold. SSR SP1's definitely the best looking wheel on an R33. I've been looking at replacing my Sterns for 4 years now. Have done heaps of image editting, pasting various wheels on to my car. My car is black, and I like the look of the bronze spokes on the black RX-7. Classy and mean. I think the dish stands out more with a darker spoke. Super black would probably be my choice for a new set. If I get a used set, I'd spray em bronze or gunmetal. Hard to find a used set of rims with the right offsets you want.

I've had a good look at the 1/4 mile posts which are a better indication of how quick a car really is. However I'm more interested in 0-100 times for street cars, which is a standard spec displayed when marketing new cars. My aim is to get to 4.0 secs with my GTS-T on street tyres or semis which are comparible to top end tyres. I haven't come across a thread for 0-100 yet and hoping for a little interest. My car has a digital speedo with numerous features, one of which is an alarm and light that signals on a set speed. I will soon take video of some launches after the diff is bed in a bit more and set a stop watch onto it. My next tyres will be KU36, see what happens.

One good reason for an upgrade is mine: The stock viscous in the GTS-T isn't designed to cope with high horsepower, never mind the torque of the 3.0. I was sideways more times than I can remember and it really gave me the sh>&%$. Sometimes it would hold but the wheels would shudder on launch, other times the ass would flick out like a bitch. Happened really bad once at Oran Park, felt like i was going to flip over. Having that unpredictability in the back of your head with 337 rwkw defeated the purpose of building the car. GTR diffs are certainly a good option, however don't you have to replace the rear axles and wheel hubs to GTR also? That'll all add up.

I just fitted the Nismo GT Pro TT 1.5 way. Clunky, yes but only when cold and at slow speeds around corners. Wouldn't call it harsh, but certainly bites. I've left it on middle initial torque setting but probably should have turned it down to low for the break in. Good thing about having an adjustable spring is, once the plates are worn , just crank up the spring a notch and off you go. Expect longer life out of it. Not many diffs have this feature. After it's properly bed in, it's best to adjust the torque setting to suit your car and driving style. Can't compare the difference between the viscous stock and this. You just have a feeling of complete control as the car feels so tight. Way more grip around corners even when wet, which surprised me. The car seems to track differently but seems to point exactly where you want it to. Today on a quiet road, rolling slow, put it in 2nd, pressed in the clutch, booted it, dropped the clutch and she just kept straight until I ran out of road. Just a smooth wheel spin with no shudder. Could have let go of the wheel, but not very wise. As bubba says 'super predictable'. Absolutely love it.