conan7772

I would have thought the 3071 would be better than the 3076 for the RB20. What didn't you like about it ?

RB25/30 Series 1 R33 Tomei 256 Deg Poncams 550cc injectors Custom 20mm fuel rail CP Forged Pistons and Rings Haltech E6K - shortly for sale ! ECU limited to semi-sequential ignition High flowed stock turbo - OP6 Hitachi internals - 500 hp bb core Single 911T fuel pump and surge tank Heavy duty clutch Series 2 gear box My first results (Post #8) were done on a Hub Dyno and power converted to flywheel kw. Would have been around 220 rwkw. Now making 273 rwkw and 971 Nm torque with the cams , injectors and 20 psi. Booked in next week for ECU upgrade - Haltech Sport 2000 Gonna tune with full sequential ignition Also replacing stock plenum with a Plazmaman + 72mm throttle body Will be interesting to see how much we'll get out of this turbo - for sale later this year ! Also planning on a GT3071R/0.83 AR and tuned manifold in a few months.

Still waiting for feedback on the Hankook H424's. The Hankook catalogue descibes the 424 was designed for V8's with a high silica content for superior grip. Anyone fitted these ? A comparison to the K104's would be good. Cheers.

G'day, Anyone fitted the Hankook H424. They're supposed to have better straight line grip than the K104s. Designed for powerful V8's they have a high grip silica compound better than the K104's. My quote so far for K104's is 23545R17 $189 and 25540R17 $249. Just wanna get 0-100 in under 6 secs. How's this, I've still got my ratshit Falken Ziex 326's worn down now on the rears to near flat. I've had them for 6 six years and done 60,000 kms on them. The car still brakes quite well in the dry but you know the rest. I reckon I got my moneys worth.

Parts listed on Ebay. Starting $80 for both. Cars, Turbos and Performance part, Suspension, Nissan.

Last chance. Items going on Ebay with 1/2 price reserve.

Make an offer and save some money. Huge difference in your handling. Will separate.

Yeah, will separate. Hoping for $120 for the camber and $ 100 for the caster

Yes, eccentric bushes. Range is + or -0.75 deg with the single kit. If you get two kits, you can achieve + or - 1.5 deg replacing all 8 bushes outer and inner

Up for grabs are two kits that I didn't need from Sydneykids group buy road kit. 1. KCA331 front caster adjust kit - radius rod bush to suit R33. (retails $129) suits 300ZX (Z32), 200SX, 240SX, Sylvia, R32 & R33. 2. KCA347 rear camber adjust kit - upper control arm will suit Silvia S13,14 & 15 , Skyline R32 & R33 and 300ZX Z32. (retails $150) I bought the full kit without checking underneath first. $190 for both plus $10 postage Will separate. Contact Alex [email protected]

Anyone managed to fit one over theirs. With the engine 40mm higher , mine can't go back on as the bonnet is hard down on the throttle body. Don't really want a carbon bonnet either.

I've heard high flowed injectors can cause poor idle and not perform well if they haven't been properly done. You definitely need fuel management not possible on stock ecu. Sometimes you need full sequential control to get good idle. I'm still undecided about high flows. My Haltech E6K is far from the latest model and might not work. Only supports semi-sequential or group firing.

Anyone had any trouble with the "re-manufactured" high flowed injectors. Injection Perfection are flogging these on Ebay. I've heard idle problems can arise from using these. I've also heard you need full sequential control. Does anyone know if the Haltech E6K can properly manage these ?

Some mechanics import front cuts and miscellaneous used parts to sell. I found a full set of R33 GTR Brembos for $1700 Rotors are 324 x 32 mm and hardly worn. But you need 17 inch rims to get them in. I've got about 3mm between the calipers and spokes. I went a little crazy on pads using Greenstuff, overkill for street use. Better have gone just a sports pad for half the cost. Also used high temp fluid. Pulls up much better but still unhappy with pedal feel on sudden braking. Should have done braided lines and cylinder stopper as well. R34 brakes need adapting, fair bit of work required and costly. Try TweakIt at Mona Vale NSW www.tweakit.net They import used stuff but it's not on the web site. Good luck

I'm still overwhelmed with the torque of this engine. Always owned 4 cylinders cars in the past, totally different driving. With the RB30 at say 90-100 km/h, further accelleration is best to leave it in 5th gear ! Gearing down to 4th or even 3rd at this speed seemed to be of no benefit at all. I guess this is where warmer cams come in. The response in fifth is so punchy it'll go from 100 - 130 in 3 secs. With the RPM at 3000 at 100 km/h and full boost reached at 3200, it's clear to see why. Anyway, still have bigger injectors to come and to max out this turbo next tune. Maybe later some NOS, after watching the Dyno shootouts at Penrith last Sunday. Saw a NA XR6 jump 100 bhp with NOS(max 316) and almost skip off the drums. Imagine the same with the RB30DET...

Test result : From 80km/h to stop. Heavy brake. Car stopped at around 25-30 metres. Felt a gradual smooth brake for around 2 secs, then pulsed. The car still felt like it travelled too far. From 70km/h to stop. Absolute full stomp. Car stopped in under 20 metres. Felt ABS immediately and managed to get a tiny lockup on the fronts. I'm talking less than 300 mm slide. Just don't get that pressure against the seat belt like other cars. The brakes almost feel like they're not power assisted. On a sudden stop, I have to apply so much pressure on the pedal, I'm afraid it's gonna break or bend. Normal braking is ok. Don't have braided lines or a stopper,should have done it on the upgrade Going to look into changing the ABS module as well. To be continued...

Definitely too intrusive. I will shortly perform a brake test and get back with the results. I wonder if the module can be replaced with an R34 GTR one. How can it be diagnosed through a computer? Years ago I had a 1984 model Alfa GTV 2.0. That thing could outbrake a 911 Carrera at the time. Awesome. Wouldn't mind the same feel considering the Brembo upgrade ! :laughing-smiley-014:

I've had an, R33 GTR Brembo kit installed onto my Series 1 GTS-t. Using ELF HTX115 dot 4 fluid and Green Stuff pads, it certainly pulls up better but still you need to put so much pressure on the pedal for a sudden stop. Rotors are 324 x 32mm and got about 2mm between the calipers and spokes. I think the ABS is overworking, or set too strong. The initial clamping is too gradual. Even if you stamp on the pedal hard as hell, it feels no where near lock up. How does the module work, and is it adjustable in any way. How can you test or compare the module or is it just malfunctioning. Has anyone disabled it or is this not recommended. Look forward to some comments.

Well don't bother with R33 GTS-t brakes.They'll be worse than what you have now. I picked up a used full set of R33 GTR Brembos for $1700. Anyway, enough of that, this is an engine thread.

Gotta say, Before I did this engine rebuild, whilst the car was going great, I always had plans to achieve good hp. But I first wanted the car to stop well. Being the R33 GST-t, believe it or not, it actually has the worst brakes than all the other models. Don't know why this is the case, but it's true. So Tweakit at Mona Vale fitted an oversized Brembo GTR kit on for me with probably 2mm between the spokes and the calipers, + Green stuff pads. Having the GTS-t a little lighter than the GTR less more with a light-weight bodykit with these brakes is sensational. But I still think the ABS is too heavy, meaning the braking could be better. I wonder if this is programmable or adjustable.

So how'd you get the GTR top feed injectors in, or are the side feed purely R33

Cubes, You got RB26 head on yours now ? You mentioned GTR injectors and springs a little while ago