Well done Rezz! Its interesting to know little facts like that but at the end of the day im sure most of you READ EVILTD would have more important things to do then dispute what RB stands for on an engine.
Take both for a drive and see which one you like the feel of better. At the end of the day we cant make your decision for you, it has to be what you think warrants your cash.
Ive gone from a turbo 33 to a NA 34 four door. My reasons for this are stated mainly in eug's reply. Maintenance is cheaper its cheaper to fuel etc. My 33 was clean tidy and had the power to go with it but when you realise house prices are going up and you are looking for a house you realise you need to get rid of it to save money. It was either this or a commodore and beleive me im glad I decided to stick with a skyline.
I think it depends on how bad the faulty coil is. Mine started missing before the engine light went on and a guy on here by the name of alexr34 had no problems at all except his engine light went on. They both turned out to be the same problem. If in doubt take it to a mechanic that can do a diagnostic on it and it will tell you which error code is causing it to come on. Or if you like to do things yourself I think there is a thread on here showing you how to check the error codes for yourself. PM 666dan and he should be able to help you.
Very nice I can only imagine what they are worth considering the run of the mill silver badges were like $194 for the nissan symbol the "S" on the hood and "skyline" written on the boot.
yes its definently a type X check Iron Chiefs thread on type x's on nissansilvia.com
A quick run down was it had to have digital climate control black top motor etc.
If its been disconected for a while and it is the hose im talking about it means that whole time its been running unlimited boost. It may have done damage it may not have, it depends on the driving habits of people using the car while its been in this state. Get it checked out before you hand over your hard earned cash.
depends, mine is currently getting new coils as mine kept missing and dropping a cylinder. The only light that came on was the engine light so it could very well be ignition related. If your having similar symptoms to me its most probably your coilpacks.
Is your car missing at idle or sputtering when you get up it? Could be ignition problem (as in coils) Are they the factory coils and how many k's are on the car?
only difference between the two really is the series 1 has a steel compressor wheel and the series 2 has a nylon compressor wheel. If your buying it to highflow it wont make any difference which one you get.
120,000ks on these motors is nothing as long as its been serviced regulary and looked after. my 33 had 114,000 on it and ran the same as it did with 70,000ks on it because I serviced it regulary used good oils and parts and was kind to it.
Thanks guys for the info. It will be all fixed this week (hopefully)
Its all fixed. It turned out to be dead coil and a dirty AFM thanks again everyone for your help!