skybt1

the deck sticks out about 20mm, and cant be pushed back any further. if i used something thinner, which i had perspex before the mdf, the head unit sticks out and looks out of place, or looks like it hasnt been fitted properly. using the mdf, it gives the appearance of a flush mounted head unit.

light is alternator light, forgot to wire it into the dash when changing the wiring loom. Used MDF to make the panel around the deck, gonna laminate it matt black.

the decks dont fit flush coz there is no depth in the cavity for a standard size deck! Ive fitted mine already in the center. i installed a volt guage and battery light to the left of it. Made up an MDF panel to cover all the gaps. Ill take a photo and post it up.

mine never gets so bad where water needs to be drained.

good advice there!

i removed my antenna from the roof when i painted the car, so i got no radio. i keep wanting to go buy an electric in car one but i dont really like the radio anyway. i just got a new deck with a usb input so it works like a giant ipod, so i need to see the face so i can read the folder names. hence the glovebox is not a good spot for my needs.

probably master cylinder is stuffed. booster doesnt have anything to do with fluids, just air. my master cylinder was leaking very slowly over a period of weeks and ate away at my paint. its not expensive to get them reconditioned.

I thought of offsetting it, i should of gone with it. whats that sub like? I need to get me one of them steering wheels, or perhaps a whole black dash!

so you drive around with the glove box open? or you get one of them thumb controller thingys?

Im not a fan of the glovebox job. I think its good for classics that are worth 50k plus or for people that dont like using their stereos heaps. Its not practical enough, just to turn the volume up or down or select another track.

As we all probably know by now, those of us who have installed head units, the r30 is a horrible car to fit a stereo to. The deck does not quite fit all the way in and once the old one is removed there is a wide open gap that has to be filled with something so there is no big gaps. What have you done to overcome this, and has anyone got any different ideas or a different location for a head unit?

so maybe all lights have been opened up somewhere down the line and never resealed to their original best, or maybe it is just a problem that we have to deal with. im just glad im not the only one!

Winter is on the brink again and i always have troubles with condensation in my rear tail lights. After a heavy rain or a few real cold days i get water condensation build up and it looks like shit! I have disassembled the lights and reassembled them sealing them with silicone everywhere possible and yet i still have the same problem. Anyone else deal with this crap or is it just something i have to live with?

Do they get rated at highway k's or city driving?

Im freaking out, i just did 500k to 53L!! i usually get about 350k to 46L. only driving change I made is always find 5th. still stuck my foot into it, wasnt driving like miss daisy all the time.

not really, sorry. Knowing my luck as soon as i sell them ill need them. Just hunt importmosnter. you'll find a set at a good price eventually. Its a bit shit now with the exchange rate but if you have time its worth it. They must have so many over there, you can get a set for 100 bucks some times. I bought one brand new set for 200 bucks and one second hand set for 100. But be careful, some of the japs try to pass off r180 shafts for 200's. There arent a lot like this but they are out there. The more you look at the more you can pick which ones are good and which ones are useless.

i had a guy make me up commodore shafts to fit the r30, i dont know what went wrong but i broke three sets. whether it was poor craftsmenship or just bad luck(i doubt it) we just couldnt get them to work. i just imported a couple of sets of dr30 shafts of an r200 from japan.

yep, and the bottom one looks broken.

if you're not in a hurry check out importmonster.com.au i bought a full set of r32 gtr calipers, they also happened to come with brand new pads too, for 17,700yen which was about 170 bucks at the time. i also got a full set of coilovers to suit the s13 conversion for 20,000yen which was about 200 bucks.

i was gonna machine down the knuckle then the engineer suggested the countersunk option to keep as much strength as possible.

yes it would be, and probably be cheaper too.

you can counter sink a hole the width of the nut in the top of this hole so the nut will screw down all the way. only needs to be counter sunk about 3mm, then it works a treat. no need for upside down nuts or ball joints with no split pins.

i have been wanting to try and see if you can fit z31 stub axles into the r30 items. but it is a rare item and im not even sure if it will work. then you can use the z31 half shafts which are way better.

the advantage for me was a floating disc set up and coilover fronts with more options. 100mm spacing for bigger brakes, mine is an mr30 not a dr30. i have the understanding that dr30's already have this 100mm spacing? makes it a whole lot easier to take your front shocks out!!

you may as well do an s13 front hub conversion. the rears will fit the trailing arms but you will need to buy different caps coz silvia run two bolt. OR you can precisely drill out two new holes in the top of your strut tower, but it would be better to find proper top caps.