Merli

GTR front and rear guards.... Impressive I like everything about the car except for maybe one thing

Just so I'm clear............... ............ you're a guy right? ............ as in, you have a pen1s? Because that car is PINK

Absolutely! These are port-matched, tuned-length exhaust manifolds. Whether or not they *increase* power, is debatable, but they will reduce spool-up/increase turbo response, shifting the torque and power curve into earlier in the rev range.

Hmmmm..... ban.

You're absolutely correct. http://www.camsmanual.com.au/pdf/general/0...dule_I_Q208.pdf The recommended angle is between 0-10 degrees from horizontal, but upto 40 degrees is "acceptable". Most people would weld in a horizontal bar between the rear legs to use as the harness mounting point.

Nice popped collar big boy...

Still available

Cusco Tension/Radius rods and Upper Arms still available!

Don't EVER try proper semi-slicks. Your wallet will hate you forever.

Oh okay... I wasn't having a go at you, I was genuinely interested, because I have heard SOOOOO many different ideas on what the ideal spring rates are. It's hard to differentiate between personal "normal-person's", "tried one coilover and it seems to be good" opinion and informed, race-experience, "tried-all the different spring rates"-based opinion. Suspension will make or break a track car, so along with the thread starter, I want to make sure I get all the right information

But what you run in YOUR GTR is by no means an indication of what's best for a track-only GTR....... Is it?

Really? What are you basing this on? I know some of the spring rates that some of the racing GTRs (without naming any of the race teams) that we all know and love, and they are running MUCH stiffer than 8/6. Much much much stiffer. I'm no suspension guru (as far from it as possible), but I have a feeling that it really depends on the quality of the shock absorber, and its ability to handle the rebound stroke of the stiffer spring rates? I've been for a ride in some GTRs with RIDICULOUS spring rates, and they felt perfectly fine, even over corrugated iron tarmac. On the other hand, I have also been in some GTRs running slighty softer spring rates on a popular green japanese coilover brand that was rough as guts. Again, if any REAL suspension gurus wish to tell me I'm full of sh1t, please feel free

Interested as well. For those who will be willing to help, they will probably need to know whether or not you will have a roll cage, and whether it is welded in or bolted in?

Yup, I removed that mystery one in the boot today, and it was indeed the control module for the rear window demister I was going to bin it, but if people have broken ones, I'll give this one away to a good home.... PM me if anyone needs it. Disclaimer: I never actually turned on the rear window demister, so I don't know if it works

How about an R35 GTR?

Hey guys, The door cards were swapped out purely because of clearance issues with the roll cage. They are made of aluminium sheeting, covered with very nice black carpet. They were made in-house at Just Jap.

Thanks for posting those photos Phil... Looks like a carbon sleeved metal shaft. I'm still interested.

I'll take the rears if you want to separate them...

So you have all these people trying to help you, and giving GOOD advice, and this is the bullsh1t drivel that you reply with? Fcuk me, why do we even bother? Do you really think that after waiting 6 months with no buyers, and constantly lowering the price of that M3 over and over and over again, he finally hit the jackpot and sold it for a large sum of money? One word. Delusional. I don't need to follow the sale of that car to know what happened. He got a lowball offer after trying to sell it for 9 months from someone who couldn't really afford a locally delivered M3, and he took it because it's all he could get. Let me "enlighten" you. Buyers for these types of cars do NOT want a grey import because: a) Lack of australian (any?) service history b) Lack of warranty (this is HUGE) c) Lack of BMW dealer support (I'm sorry Sir, where did you purchase this car???? Errr let me just check with my service manager if we can service this) d) Horrible resale value - Sorry to break your bubble, but buyers of $80-100k cars are very much concerned about money. They worry about depreciation and resale value. Why didn't I buy the grey import? Well, for all of the above reasons. I wanted dealer warranty. I'm not sure if you realise how much repairs to an M3 can run you. If I didn't have warranty, I would already be about $3500 in the red because a simple, cheap, hydraulic arm on the convertible top started leaking fluid. Parts needed changing and you can't just get one part, it comes as a huge one-piece assembly from BMW running in the thousands. Plus exorbitant BMW dealership labour. Ouch. And that's for a simple, small part. Can you imagine if you had to pay for a new navigation system, new engine, or even (more likely) diagnose complex electrical problems out of WARRANTY? Bend over and bite on this towel. Buyers in the market for an M3 want to see dealer servicing records. They want a no-hassle ownership, and even though it costs more to get it serviced at BMW than at Ultratune, that's what they do, because they know that the potential buyers of the car will want to see that. Service history in ENGLAND??? Private IMPORT??? err no thanks. I'll have a look at that other one over there. Even though it will cost the buyer $20k more for an Australian delivered European car, they will do so, because they'll be able to sell it more easily when the time comes and recoup that extra money. No biggie. Why buy a cheaper M3 and then sell it at the same difference? Pay a little more (that you'll get back when you sell the car) for piece of mind, and hassle-free ownership? That's what BMW M3 owners are looking for. Not a grey import with a HUGE repairs liability. As for true value for the cars? 2001-2002 E46 M3 Coupes are now SELLING for about $60k, 2003-2004 M3s are SELLING for about $70-80k. Don't let your vision be clouded by the high asking prices advertised on websites. They don't sell for anywhere near asking price (especially private sales, with no dealer warranty). Truth of the matter is, it's now the previous model, and it's a buyer's market. Dealerships (and private sellers) realise that every single day that the car is sitting in their lot, it is depreciating. ESPECIALLY since the new model is now available. Amazingly in Australia, where we get REAMED on car prices, the BMW M3 still sells very well, and there are HEAPS of them to choose from. See here's where you're going wrong. You want to make life easy for yourself. Why in the HELL would you buy a car that only has a small target market? You'll be waiting forever for that 1 person to buy it. Doesn't sound like you're in the right frame of mind to be making money from this venture. Not sure what you lecture at University, but it sure isn't Economics or Finance. Buy a car that you love and want to drive instead, and just enjoy it. When you ship it here, just try not to lose money on it. Done.

It sure does mate. But I think the "many things" it says to me (hard to sell... very limited, high-end enthusiast market, low turnover) are different to the "many things" it says to you :laughing-smiley-014: :laughing-smiley-014:

I only read the first and second page.... How frustrating All these people telling you to stay away from the Euro/prestige market, but you won't open your fcuken ears. I love your M3 calculations. First of all, you're WAY overestimating the value of an E46 M3 these days. Secondly, when I bought mine two years ago, there was a situation EXACTLY like what you described. An immaculate Silver E46 M3 coupe, private imported from England... Priced at about $20k below every other M3 on the market (about 30-40 to choose from). It remained unsold for about 6 months, at which time I bought one and stopped looking. Who knows how much longer it took to sell, and for what price. I can tell you without a doubt that all of the posters on the first two pages are correct, in saying that people who are in the market for an $80-100k and above car are NOT going to even consider a grey import Mercedes, BMW or even Audi (well.......... maaaaybe Audi). I just hope in the following 6 pages, you came to your senses and started looking at special, unique cars that are RARE and popular (easy to move - quick turnover) in Australia, and can only be brought in through the private import method.

1. Hop in car. 2. Drive to nearest exhaust shop 3. Pay $10-20 for two spot welds. 4. ????? 5. Profit.

What's going on here? What kind of private seller has more than six RB gasket kits?

Sound system?!?!?! ;) The only sound I want to hear is the glorious voice of an RB26 I haven't done any proper tracing (I might have a closer look this afternoon), but when I reached behind there, there seemed to be wiring that runs out of the metal box towards the front of the car. I'm pretty sure that no part of the wiring loom runs up the passenger door sill, so it must merge into the loom that goes across the top of the rear seat. Thanks mate, if your car blows up when you remove the box, let me know

But of course, young padwan I couldn't find the other stuff though