Merli

Go ahead. Name them. Lets see some links to For Sale threads for items which you have bought, and prove that you're not full of sh1t and spouting uncontrollable bullsh1t yet again.

12.1 60 footer and a 13.0 ET? Damn dude, you have a FEARSOME top end!!!

Yeah seriously... How fast can you possibly go through a roundabout?? That's a damn good effort to kill yourself on a roundabout :Oops:

I have two red Snap-On seat covers that I bought to cover my Recaros so they don't get stolen... I got sick of them after a week, so I stopped using them. I think I paid $50 each for them? They're yours for $70... If you want them, I'll have to go find them... I can't remember where I put them during the garage renovation :Oops:

I admit it... I'm Thomas's bitch.

I'll be there at 7:30

News report on the radio said that it was a "Nissan Turbo"...

Look, lets not attack each other over this.... We all want the same thing, but everyone has their own ideas about how's best to go around it. If we resort to dramatizing this, nothing will get done. I think at the end of the day, ANY of the above counter-measures suggested are great ideas, and will help curb the dodgy scammers from using SAU to defraud our members. I think we should start with implementing a 2 month restriction from posting in the For Sale forums, and see how that goes.

I have rescheduled my meeting on Thursday afternoon, so we can make the booking for 7:30pm if 8pm is too late

Bingo. That's exactly why unless it was an EXCEPTIONAL '89 GTR, I'd take the S15 over it without hesitation.

How many "top shelf" '89 GTRs have you seen? :D Going on a blanket rule, and judging by the condition of AVERAGE '89 GTRs and AVERAGE S15s, I'd take an S15 in a heartbeat. That said, there are some very nice '89 GTRs, but they're much much much rarer than very nice S15s

Ahhh, sorry... They're laptimes of the Top Gear test track... It's not overly tight, nor overly open... It's a pretty well balanced track actually. Open sweepers, tight 90 degree turns, decent straights, etc.... I'm sure you've seen one or two episodes

People don't buy $220,000 cars if they have to worry about a $100k deposit on a house

I bought this front bar from Powerplay Imports

I've never changed pads on a stock Nissan caliper, but with my AP calipers, I'm very easily able to pull the old pad out half-way, and then push on the compound side of the brake pad (as opposed to the backing plate side) and leverage the pad to push the pistons back in a little bit making putting thicker pads in MUCH easier (e.g. taking out your worn out track pads and putting in your new new street pads) No need for g-clamps or screwdrivers, but it might be harder to do on the Nissan calipers?

I've tried using that red gooey anti-squeal compound on the back of the my Ferrodo DS2500 (street pads)... I bought it from Pep's Auto for about $15 if memory serves? Anyway, the only thing it did was get my hands all pink, my shirt and dirty old jeans all pink, make the pistons on my caliper all pink and did absolutely NOTHING to stop the squeal

They'll just register 10 accounts now and use them in turn, as each account gets banned. It has to be based on both time and number of posts. Personally I think 3 months is a good minimum time, as seen on Overclockers Australia....... and maybe 100 posts.

Chris is as reliable as they come. He works like a dog, and is extremely busy. He gets up late as he works late through the night. Try calling him in the afternoon. Don't worry, you'll get your parts

UNPOSSIBLE!!!

Why? If both tyres supposedly give the same amount of grip? :confused: :kick: Another thing to consider is that it's a generally accepted fact that staggered tyre setups (235 front/265 rear), give more traction than a 235 front/235 rear setup. At the same time it increases the car's tendancy to understeer, as there is less grip in the front than the rear. These are commonly accepted facts, but seem to contradict the "tyre width don't mean sh1t" theory? :confused:

Very interesting. "In the Imperial system, the equation is 9 times the square root of the tyre pressure. So, if your tyres are at 25 psi, if you drive into a puddle that is deeper than your tread depth, you will aquaplane at 45 mph (72 km/h), whereas if your tyre pressure was 36psi, you would aquaplane at 54 mph (87 km/h). The advantages are obvious." Is aquaplaning that direct a calculation? This seems almost unbelievable to me, considering that some tread pattens are much more adept at displacing standing water than other tread patterns. That calculation above ONLY takes into account tread depth, and not tread pattern (or perhaps displacement abilities measured in "mm of H2O per metre") Also, in that conclusion from the quote above, he (Julian Edgar?) only lists the factors that DON'T affect tyre "grip", and he never answers the question he poses in the first sentance of that conclusion.