ascenion24

Car was sold ages ago, just updating the post. If someone can remove my number or delete the post so I don't get anymore calls, thanks.

Price drop: $8,500

Solved with another wastegate actuator

Ok so I've decided I want a 34. I haven't had this car for long but in the time I've had it I've spent a major amount of time getting the mechanical sides of things running as near as new as possible. Car in question is a 1995 Model R33 GTS-T Manual Coupe 163,000ks Located in Melbourne. Asking: $9,400 Things that have been done in the last 600kms are: Exhaust manifold gasket Water pump Turbo gasket and studs Thermostat Bendix front brakes Spark plugs Engine and transmission oil with filters. Turbo checked and in good condition. Vacuum hoses replaced Shockers checked by pedders and passed there test. Rest of suspension is in very good condition compared to other skylines out there (Was told by pedders) Car has a front mount intercooler + Pod filter. HKS exhaust from the cat back GTR body kit. Original floor mats Clean interior Car comes with RWC and 12 months rego. At the moment, there is small crack in the front bumper which is being fixed up, hopefully this will be done soon. Sorry for the bad quality pics, not sure what was up with the camera but will get some better ones soon. Can contact me on 0411537007

Restrictor what? I've replaced the pipe with a new piece of fuel pipe to make sure there were no leaks. So without the restrictor it would overboost? Ill check the old pipe. Also do you need the restrictor when using an aftermarket boost controller? When I had the apexi hooked up it was still over boosting.

Will give it a try tonight, how much should the wastegate move from closed position? I drew a quick diagram to help explain, the diagram shows the lever in the closed position, should it be able to rotate only 45 to the vertical? or upto 90 degrees? etc... Thanks.

hmmm... just ran a test. Hooked the air comp up to the wastegate and the rod moved the same amount that I can move it by hand. (If I grab the rod with pliers I cant move it I have to grab the connection at the turbo and twist, should it be easier to move?) So it seems as if the swing valve is getting stuck, but its a stock system so I cant see anything being in the way. I'm not sure what to do here, the test wasn't exactly scientific so not sure if I can rely on it. What should I do?

Has always done this since Ive had the car, which has been only a couple of weeks. I thought it was the boost controller not working properly so I removed the boost controller and it still over boosts. I can move the actuator rod with a pair of pliers, But I dont know the limits of how much it should be able to move, it could be getting jammed and I dont even know. Actually Ill move it by hand and measure the throw, then ill put compressed air to it and measure the throw. If the throw is less with the air then the actuator is stuffed. If the throw is the same then something is stopping the wastegate from opening completely and will probably need turbo out to inspect. Am I on the right track here?

I cant for the life of me find a replacement actuator, all the generic ones have a straight pushrod and it wont clear the turbo intake... anyone got ideas? Does the standard actuator pull apart so I can replace just the spring or do I have to replace the whole assembly?

I cant for the life of me find a replacement actuator, all the generic ones have a straight pushrod and it wont clear the turbo outlet... anyone got ideas? Does the standard actuator pull apart so I can replace just the spring or do I have to replace the whole assembly?

stock turbo yes, but its over boosting. Returned it to stock setup with new vacuum hose and clamps but it still over boosts to 12 psi. The whine comes on mostly in first and 2nd gear as soon as it starts boosting though even within the normal boost limits. Smoke test? I make some smoke and see where it gets sucked in? Ok how do I make the smoke, im a non smoker!

Im getting that high pitched whine ontop of the sucking I can hear from my pod filter. From what I've read the high pitch whine is a leak in the compressed side of things, but at idle if you rev the car its still a vacuum so the old detergent trick wont work. Whats the best way to find the leak?

Its an L shape. Comes off the side of the wastegate heading to the side of the car then it bends heading towards the front. kind of looks like this one http://www.nissanparts.cc/catalog/nissan/R...SM%20NPLOGO.jpg

Car in question is a R33 GTS-T only mods are a front mount, CAI and a larger exhaust from the cat back (so I dont think it would really affect the back pressure) So my car has been boosting to around 12psi no matter what setting I put the boost controller on... I removed the apexi boost controller and put a new hose with new hose clamps straight from the wastegate actuator to the intake piping. Car should be running 7 or 8 psi now like stock. Anyways it still overboosts, I can hit 12psi in any gear if I plant it, im sure it would go more but the car starts to miss or backfire and starts acting all jerky. Does anyone else have any ideas of anything else to check before I replace the wastegate solenoid?

Sorry, car is r33 rb25det. jjskyline79 you have confused me with those pictures. I've never seen the stock setup remember so I dont know what the stock solenoid looks like. But from what I understand, if I just go straight from the inlet pipe to the wastgate then I will just get a solid 7psi all the time? If someone can confirm this then that would be good enough for me. (thinking about getting rid of the 33 and buying a 34, so want to take the apexi controller with me)

An apexi boost controller was already installed in my car when I got it. Im curious to what the original setup looks like incase I need to put it back to stock. At the moment the hose goes from the inlet pipe to the apexi boost control solenoid to the wastegate. Is stock straight from the inlet to the wastegate?

First off you can still see the cross hatching in those dark areas, so the finish is still fine. It doesnt look like any abnormal wear, if it was you would see straight up and done scratch marks in those dark spots, it looks like something has stained your bores. But always hard to tell just looking at photos. Is it carbon build? will it scratch off? does it still feel smooth, try and describe it to us a bit more. Also a second interesting clue is that the dark strip goes down below the line where the top of the piston would be at the bottom of its stroke. There is also a very clear line at the top where it stops, it looks like the line could line up with one of the rings. Figure out where the top of that line lines up with the piston when its at TDC that might give you another clue to what is causing it. Also do the same at the bottom of the stoke. But it almost looks like the oil squirters are squirtering at that spot at the bottom (hence the rounded stain at the bottom) and the piston is dragging it up to the top. Over time it could of just stained the bore. Then again like I said its still very hard to diagnoise properly without having a proper look.

Been searching the forums, its like trying to find a needle in a hay stack. Maybe it should become a sticky under FAQ in the modification section. Thought that would of be where it was. Can someone point it out, thanks.

Where can I find the official documents stating all the modification laws, eg. One air intake mod, exhaust xdb loudness, number plate must be visible on 45degree angle. etc.... Ive been looking for the past 20 mins and haven't been able to find them. I have found this http://www.vicroads.vic.gov.au/NR/rdonlyre...8340/0/VSI8.pdf But it doesnt state anything about air intakes or number plates, so there must be more detailed information out there.

Dstirls sorry, I read over your post too quick and thought you said that it doesn't have fuel cut. "it's perfectly normal and it should be left alone yet you are insisting on changing it for the sake of changing it" thats like saying your spark advance is perfectly normal, no need to change it. Anyways I'm sure we could sit here and go back and forth and turn this into a stupid discussion but I'm sure everyone is on the same page, we know why the car does this, we have learnt about it were all smarter for this and if you want to f*ck with it its up to you.

thats ok,i fixed it. Was just a track that was blown out. So soldered in a jumper and all good. I dont care about the price (even though it was a free fix now) The fact is the car is not registered and I have a vic roads appointment tomorrow for the car. Anyways like I said all good now.

So I got my car back form the mechanics today, RWC done... Have it booked in tomorrow for the pits at vic roads. Was playing around tonight with my techedge wideband controller and I possibly touched a wire to something I wasn't suppose to. Long story short I fried the ecu. Opened it up, smelt that blown up component smell. Found the problem, now I just have to figure out what it was, Im thinking possibly a diode? Then i need to replace it first thing tomorrow morning, hook it back up to the car and drive to vic roads. Except I dont know what the component was!! If anyone can look in there ECU for me, or knows what this is, or knows of a board schematic I will be extremely grateful. EDIT: looking closely at it, it looks like its just a track that has burnt out and come up, if someone can confirm this i will just solder a jumper over the top.

Dstirls, I've had 3 people tell me they are positive it does have fuel cut. One of them has played with it them self on Nistune. So you must of got feed some bad information.

D Stirls, are you sure on this? I've been told that it does. I need to get a registered copy of nistune so that I can look into the files to see for myself. But if indeed it doesnt then thats more of a concern because then I have an actually problem more along the lines of what I first thought that I need to fix.

Have you had a compression test and a leak down test since you've noticed this smoke? That is normally the first place you start.