Hella Flush

tried to remove the t5 bulb from its holder... it wont come out! not without breaking it... and had a better luke at the new t5 bulb i got which is just basically a new factory normal one so i dont think itll do much sent the mrs off on a mission tomorrow to find an ultrawhite t5 to match the t10 phillips ones ive put in she also came up with the idea of tinting the clear plastic cluster cover in 20% tint... so shes doing that tomorrow (hope it doesnt turn out shit!)

its height man dont worry... now 5 stud is on it looks a lil better... slammed at front too just needs to come down at the rear respray is on the cards... already lined up... but unsure when... its either going to be turbo conversion or respray... i know which is cheaper (respray) but am really hanging for some power to actually use the car

led bulbs look shit... just want normal white went to autobarn - narva do have t5 sized wedge bulbs... i picked one up $2 each... its just normal white not arctic however they said they do do a super white led t5 size - which i will try after i try this normal narva t5 bulb... i really dont wanna use led's as it will mean having to replace all the phillips ultravision ones i just bought and wont be as bright... just need this green coating gone - whats the go???????

same! im gonna try autobarn again... yay for ripping my cluster out in autobarn carpark again

cmon its today im impatient and want super white!

lol ryan should slow down n take things easy... stock susp and r32 stockies with high profiles = FTL and no skidz with me - someones gone solo since they got their car back on the road!

i hope so too as im super keen to get uber white also noticed that 1 of the smaller bulbs (not parker size) lights up the speedo from 120-180... so everything on my dash is bright and tinged green apart from that part which is duller and yellow

ok

my puppy more pics tomoz... did some more changes today

attempted the white dial mod to dash cluster last nite took 2 smokes straight and i had it done with all the green caps removed and reinstalled (did it in carpark whilst eating hj's as i always carry 3 toolboxes with me full of tools (just incase!)) only problem... they were a yellow tinge... so today took cluster out again and installed phillips ultravission hyperwhite/blue globes... the cluster is now super bright - i love it... however it now has a green tinge due to the factory dials green coating... so im wondering how to fix this? it has been mentioned to use thinners on the dials to remove the green? any recommendations? look closer at the pic i supplied up top there is no green on the cluster... he has removed the factory green on the dials... will thinners work and not f**k shit up? what to use?

s14 hubs s14 stubaxles r33 rotors r33 calipers cefiro lower control arms with r33 balljoints pressed in (r33/s14 same balljoint taper/assembly and stub axle/hub) dont use s14 or r33 lower control arms... extra 10mm in track can play with camber adjustment and be abitch thus i opted to use stock arms pedders suspension charged 100 bucks for brand new balljoints to be pressed into my arms 40 a balljoint and 10 per side to press one thing which im wondering about your setup konect is r33 dont use normal front coilovers like the silvia range... due to being irs they mount like a rear set dont they? makes me think you cant use r33 lower control arms and/or stub axle... would need to swap for s14 items supposedly can use r32 front hubs slotted into standard stub axles also... thats what i did with my rear atleast - used z32 rear hubs slotted straight into my factory stub axle using factory drum handbrake setup... then slotted the brakes over back on track update on my car 5 stud completed yesterday as above... front section brand new coilovers come out of the gfs s15 and into my car tomorrow so i can have my full set back exhaust was cancelled this morning as my guy called in sick to work so couldnt do it... rebooked for tuesday got some interior bits i was missing today and installed - airvent surrounds etc copped some gutter rash on my drivers side rear rim tonite at this ridiculously tight roundabout attempted the white dial mod to dash cluster last nite took 2 smokes straight and i had it done with all the green caps removed and reinstalled (did it in carpark whilst eating hj's as i always carry 3 toolboxes with me full of tools (just incase!)) only problem... they were a yellow tinge... so today took cluster out again and installed phillips ultravission hyperwhite/blue globes... the cluster is now super bright - i love it... however it now has a green tinge due to the factory dials green coating... so im wondering how to fix this? it has been mentioned to use thinners on the dials to remove the green? front rimsys should arrive this week also - already got new front tyres to stretch on when they arrive also added some stickers today to rear quarters... pics up shortly!

update front 5 stud done today... need new master as brakes are heaps soft (33 gtst all round) and bled them 3 times... front wheels on enxt week to complete the set exhaust gets done tomorrow morning at 9am which is actually 5.5hours away from now lol rebuilding the driveline will begin next and more susp work

we need a confirmation though of someone with a spare cluster as that has digi clock yet white dials... i dont wanna pull my cluster apart this weekend to find out it cant be done easily or f**k something up trying to do it and yes 11/10 FTW! p.s. i need my front rimsys here - another week to go

im so doing this this weekend im in love with ceffy dashes... one of the hottest nissan dashes imo... but the white backlight makes it 11/10!

anyone know if its a late model dash thing or just a light?

I WANT I WANT look at the backlight on the factory cluster... no green - WHITE! it looks so new!

batcave fixed this weekend as it is with current height ahd some rear bar issues last nite with a driveway

good edit dude keeping her for now... blue one is gone though

i know dude! ive been workin flat out on it and im just so sore... will do ti this weekend when i put my front sections in, 5 stud, 33 brakes and front rimsys... ill set ride height and allignment all round exhaust this weekend asqwell as you can see stock one is almost hitting as it is dont worry dude - everyone knows im the king of jap styling

updated with pics!

more better pics plz! my rears are flush to the max 18x10.5 +26 -1 degree camber 235/40/r18 nankangs stretched neutral toe also fronts go on next week once 5 stud done this weekend on the front

UMM PICS PLZ!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

shes coming together needs to be dumped more in rear and lil bit at front front 5 stud and rimsys on this weekend new suspension bits here shortly... full section/kazama/ikeya formula setup all round with s14 steering rack turbo coming soon!

will not effect your conversion you have your brake line - remains unchanged you have your 2 fuel lines the carbon canister line is not 100% necessary - circulates vacuume in the fuel tank... you can put it in if youre putting the emissions canister in when you do your conversion - but everyone for track use removes theirs so youre a ok! unless you wanna make headaches for yourself

not at home atm but rears on my cef were 18x11 +0 on my efors... -2.5 deg camber and 225/40/18 stretched over the 11's... same overfender as drift limo's sat in about 15mm... drift limo looks like running less camber thus fills out those guards btw if you want a set i have some here... 400 bones n theyre yours