shoei

i went from original kaaz oil to the motul stuff and it was LOUD! changed back to the Kaaz stuff i think it was 80w/90. I was told not to use full synthetic oils in the kaaz diff with these diffs you need to either corner with the clutch down or the accel pedal down, anything else and it will 'clunk' which is the sound of the clutch plates wearing

hey SK just wondering where does the weight of the car plus driver and fuel fit into this formula? is it factored into "what the tyres likes" so if a car has a leverage ratio of 1:1 and movement ratio of 1:1 then spring rate = what the tyre likes how do you figure out what the tyre likes? is there another formula that factors in weight and tyre pressure

http://www.300zx-twinturbo.com/cgi-bin/manual.cgi give it a shot, and let me know how you go, i messed up my first rebuild, third gear had a vibration after i put it back together, best thing is you got noone to blame but yourself

yeah i have interchanged gears and syncros between these two boxes (second and third gear), amazing how the GTR box goes for less then the rb25det, its the same! the late model r33 gtr box has a thicker input shaft in places, so a few of the bearings are different. i didnt swap this over but it also looks straight forward dont be scared of manual boxes they are pretty easy to do, just need the right tools, auto boxes on the otherhand NFI

im assuming that the clutch and gearbox was working well before all this started happening, ie nobody has been playing with these parts probably best to check the clutch master and slave cylinders before going through the trouble of pulling the gearbox out, a new master and slave used to cost $100 not sure about prices these days

Helmets only last 5 years from the date of manufacture. You will probably find that the $40 helmets are expired, more then 5 years old the fit of the helmet is the most important thing, try different brands and see what fits you best and talk to the ppl at the shop they know how its supposed to fit

pick a suspension tuner, heasman, East coast, MCA, DMS etc and follow their advice. I use Zenodampers he only does bikes though Otherwise you will end up spending more on suspension that you have buget for, dont buy anything before talking to the experts and save money in the long run you will find that off the self stuff is for the masses, your suspension tuner will revalve the shock according to your needs, dont pay more the $250 a corner for a revalve and dont pay more then $50 for a spring exchange ohh and pick someone local to you and have patience, perfection does not happen overnight

who built the dogbox?

you might want to get a price for the caliper adapters as well these are usually $$$$ but i think u might be better off selling your wheels and buying something that fits

are they called Penrith brake and clutch now? i remember the days when they were 'Specialised brake and clutch' and their shop was in St Marys these guys were the one of the first and IMHO still the best, hope its still the same guys

http://www.gtr.co.uk/forum/upload/52458-rb...-lots-pics.html a guy in the UK put the rb30 into his r32 gtr its a pretty good read, it doesnt look easy but still i think its worth the effort, btw i wouldnt say its a 'major engineering feat' its not like you gotta put a man on the moon

thats for your aac valve/idle control its what keeps your car idling when u turn on the air con etc

is the lil box ur talking about the thing that makes the beep beep noises when u are reversing? on r33's and r34's its over near the pedal box use the manual ecu if u have it, i have done the conversion on a r33 b4 and kept the auto ecu and it worked fine

STR2cd is damped, so alot easier to live with just remember to adjust the piviot point during installation i also had to take a few mm's of the flywheel bolts as well ohh and u will love the twin plate rattle

R34 GTR/GTT brakes don't just bolt onto R33 GTR/GTS-t, so if it fits on a R34 GTR then it wont fit onto an R33 GTR what car were these brakes fitted to?