240k convertible

Is anyone using the rsm gp? http://apexi-usa.com/products/?id=5352&rsku=0 I want to use one in the convertible but I can't find out if they can be run with out an ecu. All I have is two wires coming from the gearbox and one wire from the msd box (for tacho), does anyone know if this will work? What I'm trying to do is get a speedo and tacho with out spending heaps on a autometer set up. All the other functions of the rsm really make me want it over two gagues. I'm open to any other ideas that you might have. Cheers Andrew

http://www.skylinenationals.com/ There should be a few hot 240k's there. I have to build a new engine before I can show up as I'll be damned if I'm going to go there and have rb25det's hand it to me all day long. I'll need about 250kw's at the wheels to avoid the why did you put a v8 in it questions I reckon.

I use the Belkin n52te for gaming http://www.n52te.com/ it takes a little getting used to but your frag count will increase over time and it's only $65

Let me know if you want to get rid of the crank, I'm thinking of getting some j port heads and building a budget stroker for the 2010 skyline nationals ( I don't want to arrive with the engine I have in it now ).

If you stiffen up the body and upgrade the suspension/steering/braking I'd be amazed if it didn't handle quite nicely. It may all turn out quite easy if this websites information is true http://www.carbuddy.com.au/car/values/spec....aspx?gid=30193 http://i660.photobucket.com/albums/uu327/2..._dimensions.jpg As you can see the body width is the same on the cedric as the R31 so there might be enough space underneath. Hopefully the crossmember won't need to be cut at all, you might get away with just rolling the inside lip on the guards and this could go for the rear as well. You'll only know for sure when you put the r31 setup under the cedric body.

If you put the 4 link in and sort the front end I think you'll be pleasantly surprised at just how much off a corner carver it will turn out to be it's going to be one nice ride when it's finished, how long have you planned for the build? Have you thought about a different donor car with a smaller track to the R31 so you don't have to cut the diff and crossmember down?

Use a ford xd (i think) twin barrel downdraught webber with an adapter plate, parts for them are everywhere and you'll get more power.

Awesome concept. It's going to be soo sweet once it's done. Congratulations on building something unique. A friend and I were talking about how many Gf's our cars have out lasted during their builds but in your cedric's case it will be BF's If your registering in in qld you can only increase the track 10mm each side. In NSW if you put the whole crossmember/suspension/steering setup in, you class it as a cedric body and r31 front end. This way you get the increased track without the engineering rego hassles. This rule doesn't apply to QLD they don't recognise the different crossmember as coming from another car and still class the whole vehicle as a cedric. On top of that you won't have to get the engine mounts made up using the whole crossmember another bonus. If your going to go to the trouble of installing a 4 link wouldn't it be better to install a s13 irs cradle/suspension? you'd have better rear end for a similar amount of effort. It's expensive though, I've forked out thousands and thousands getting the irs and crossmember fitted to the vert so be ready to spend all your pocket money. When people ask me why I've done it I say I saw the devil one night in a vision and he asked me to build him a car . . . What strengthening will you be carrying out to the shell?

I'm the painter, I taught myself to spray in the too low for my head garage you see in the vid. As you can see I need a lot more practice before I can call myself competent, check the gap between the passenger door and front guard. My panel beating skill are worse than my painting skills. It's a solid colour, renault rouge and was the closest I could get to hemi burnt orange (american colour). One day when I can afford it it'll get a showroom paint job.

This is a high def video of the vert. It's quite fast now and sounds pretty nice for a $1000 engine/gearbox of ebay but I can't wait to drive/hear it after the rebuild. Right at the end in the garage you can see a mates 1970's toyota coaster bus, it's the best vehicle for camping and concerts and it also has a 202 with celica 5 speed so you can cruise on the hwy nicely.

Hi, Do you have the handbrake and cables that lead to the back? Cheers

Thanks for the info guys, I'll bear it in mind when I go over (which won't be for a while). Now I think about it all I really need from Japan is the mirrors and carbon fiber body panels and I'm not in a rush to get any of them, It would be a lot nicer just to get my K registered again.

Toyko to you is the importer on ebay, I just couldn't bring myself to pay the $175 either. I'd rather spend the money on performance mods than looks. I was intending to do a trip to Japan in a few years to search out parts like these, it's sad to hear how much you get stung for when bringing them back into the country.

Tell him to stop dreaming. They are on ebay quite often for $175 from some JDM importer.

What does he want for the fender mirrors?

You'll be so happy once you have the rear flares on and some big rims to fill the space. The difference it makes to the look of the car up close is huge. The price for the welding sounds reasonable. Let him know it will be stop start welding as you'll have to massage the flaps with a hammer as he goes along. In one of the shots you can see how high the arch is from the rear tyre, leaving plenty of room to go lower. It has std 300zx king springs in it at the moment but they will be lowered in due course.

More photos, In arches 1 you can see the third piece of steel in the middle and also the widening gap between the skins on the left hand side of the photo. lightly stitch weld the middle skin and inner skin together before bending the outside skin over them. As you can see I have spot welded 2 flaps first before bending all the flaps over and massaging them with a hammer into the wheel well shape. In arches 3 I have cut the inside skin away and also left the bottom section of the outside flaps, you don't need that much metal to wrap around into the well so it's best to cut the bottom of the flaps off.

They look very, very similar to the C110. The first thing you'll need to do is mark the rear ones to make sure it will work. Get a non permanent pen and someone to hold the guard for you and mark away. You should be able to run a hand up the inside and a hand on the outside and feel roughly how far the inner and outer skins are from each other. Mine were about 2 - 2.5cm apart where i cut. At the end of the day many C210's have had this mod so it is possible. Cheers Andrew

I'd say he's cut the flares, it's a low res photo so I can't really tell when zoomed in on it. He just might have welded the rear door shut for extra strength and has just left the rear door handle on to confuse people Ricky, you should at least cut / weld the front guards up as it is very easy and quick to do (one day's work with the right tools) and the result looks very nice. In saying that if your chopping the rear flare up and putting it lower on the rear qtr the front would then be higher if the flare was put in the correct place, i suspect some agressive lowering of the front end would bring them into line though. Have you looked at getting generic flares from a performance shop? that way you could keep the JDM style ones in original condition and hack up the generic ones.

All Skylines look sweet with flares on,

The first photo you posted looks pretty similar to how my C110 looked before I chopped into it. You only need to cut the rear qtr just above where the bottom of the frp arch goes to, run a pen along the bottom of the arch, angled a little upwards and it will show nearly exactly how much will need to come off. The amount of time it will take you with the filling & fibreglass will be similar to doing the welding & cutting of the arch. I cut the front guards a lot higher than the rears, this was due to the gap that was appearing the higher you cut in the rears. With all the photos I've seen of lowered C210's I'd guess that they have a very similar depth wheel well to the C110 so it should be possible to cut them up. If you could take some shots of the inside of the C210 well I'd have a better idea. Cheers Andrew

Are you going to use a intercooler with the turbo?

How's the tuning going Nigel? Has it made much of a difference to the car?

Cheers Drew, it will sound a lot better when the engine is rebuilt and is pumping out some more ponies. The car actually has a really bad paint job as it was done by me, it just looks good in photos. But hey who gives a shit about the paint job it's a convertible V8 skyline. I'm saving now, probably for the next few years to finish it off properly. It will end up being 6.4lt supercharged with a roll cage. Interior will be one of the last things to get done. I'm going to rev it properly (not letting my mate do it) and post another video shortly so watch this space.

It's finally running. Only a few more things to do then the vert will be ready for rego. http://au.youtube.com/watch?v=pnumYH_cOKo