T-Rex

Still available

$725 delivered

Have had some interest, but still for sale.

As above, only replace it if you have the headlight switch switching a relay coil. I had a brand new switch fail in 1hr of use (1 headlight would turn off) with no relay in the circuit.

Still for sale

Nobody wants to give their GTR a Christmas present?

I am selling my new PWR radiator to suit the R32 GTR. It is a direct replacement that uses the factory fan shroud and viscous coupling fan. It is polished aluminum and comes with a Stant 16psi radiator cap to suit which does not come standard when you buy one of these radiators! I have decided to use a custom Hypertune radiator that works hand in hand with the Hypertune V2 inlet manifold so I no longer have a use for this one. Bought for $876+ delivery Selling for $750 delivered Pictures to come

SOLD

I have a set of -5 available now that have done between 10,000-15,000km and in perfect working order. Were removed to fit a big single. Can supply with or without aftermarket dump pipes. $1,000 without dumps, $1,200 with.

I have for sale a brand new Nismo super coppermix twin plate competition spec model that I bought for my 1994 R32 GTR. It is a pull type clutch and possibly suits the R33 GTR too? I no longer need this as my setup now requires a clutch capable of 900hp+ Pictures to come, it has only been removed from the box to drool over! $2,000 with free delivery anywhere in Aus.

I just went through this on another car. My problem turned out to be a bad ground wire AND a faulty pump! Sometimes the ground was there, sometimes it wasn't. Sometimes the pump ran, sometimes it didn't (internal fault in pump) Check the ground wiring and bang on the fuel tank, doing so might make the pump run, which if it does you know the pump is faulty.

What setting are you using to adjust CPU voltage in the Bios? Normally adjusting the CPU core voltage manually to say 1.28V will mean a variable voltage with a maximum of 1.28V. I would suggest lowering the clock to 4600MHz and using the CPU core voltage adjustment to set voltage. My CPU is a dodgy clocker, It takes 1.3V for a stable 4600MHz clock Below are my overclock settings for what was stable for a month until I changed settings higher. EIST: OFF Turbo: OFF CPU Multiplier: 46 Base Clock: 100 Core Voltage: 1.3V I overclocked my memory too but no need to list that as yours will likely be different. My highest stable settings so far are as follows; EIST: OFF Turbo: OFF CPU Multiplier: 49 Base Clock: 100 Core voltage: 1.44V VCCIN Voltage: 2.2V CPU SA Voltage: 1.2V I just De-Lidded my 4790K and I immediately went back to square one with overclocking. It would not load at over 4600MHz so I'm in the process of overclocking to 4900MHz again!

Use an Intel CPU, I would not use an AMD for gaming. ASRock motherboards are brilliant for the price, stick with them. 8gb RAM is a minimum, 12 or 16 would be better. 1600MHz used to be the recommended max for gaming but these days the price difference between DDR3 1600 and DDR3 2133 is minimal so I would go the 2133MHz. The monitor is not good enough for gaming. 1920x1080 minimum with a response time at least 5ms unless its a IPS then 10ms is acceptable. I gamed for 3 years using 1680x1050 and the move to a good quality 1920x1080 was a HUGE improvement! Now 2560x1440 is the norm and soon 3840x2160 4K will be the new ultimate! 4gb graphics memory is fine with 1920x1080, but some games are approaching 6gb at 1080p, ridiculous but true! I prefer Nvidia graphics, but understand that Radeon is often cheaper for the performance, albeit horrendously inefficient! 850W power supply is overkill for a single card. I'm planning on running Titan X or GTX 980Ti SLI overclocked on a 750w power supply and I'm confident it will run fine. I used to run SLI for years and reaped the benefits as it is the cheaper than single card performance, although many on here disagree, simply they are wrong! As you are after medium gaming performance a single card is your best option. Go over budget to get an SSD, once you have had one you will never turn back. I'm on my 3rd (120gb, 256gb, 512gb) and keep upgrading as I run out of space. the 512gb has been good. 150gb free with 20 games installed. For a gaming rig its not necessary to have a permanent disk drive, I use a cheap Samsung portable drive to free up space in the case. Personal preference though. I have a GTX 780Ti that I will be selling when I know more about the 980Ti. If your interested let me know, it is a better card than the R9 290.

I did 4.1 sec in my 200kw WRX street tyres, street surface. A 340kW Skyline doing 3.2 is impressive. Would never happen on the street I don't think. My skyline has 330kW and its not 1 second quicker to 100 than my old WRX. Short gearing in the WRX helps with a 7500rpm+ second gear needed to hit 100kph.

Ok some pictures have arrived. You can see it is messy, I will make a stand for the reservoir and neaten up the coolant lines but it works

FireFox-89 A better case will help with the GPU temps but I doubt you will ever cool them well. I have had the same issue in the past when I ran 2x GTX 660Ti with minimal distance between the cards. I mounted a 1500rpm 120mm fan blowing fresh air directly between the 2 cards but the top GPU always ran way hotter and on some games I had to de-clock the cards so it they didn't crash. It looks like your cards are designed to vent the hot air into the case and not out of the case which will make matters worse as the top card will be pulling in even hotter air.

I have begun folding again and changed my team to team SAU. It has changed a lot since I first did it, I only use the GPU as the CPU just doesn't cut it in comparison. It seems you get rewarded for the speed in which you complete folds, if I complete the fold in one session (6 hours for instance) I get about 90,000 points. If I turn the PC off and resume 18 hours later with the fold part way in I might only receive 30,000 points. My points per day is over 300,000 but I haven't had it running 24 hours straight.

Tried adding pictures but couldn't get photobucket to play ball. Another day

I found with CPU cooling that unless you de-cap it you will never get the low temps you can achieve at the GPU. I have not de-capped a CPU before and I don't think its really worth it as some CPU's just wont overclock well even if temps are good! Years ago I had a CPU at minus 30 degrees under idle and under full load was at 10 degrees. Luckily that CPU was a good overclocker (i7 920 stock 2.66GHz, 4.8GHz overclocked and stable) I then used a i7 930 which is 2.8GHz stock but couldn't get a stable overclock above 4.5GHz. As for the H100i, I had no issues with it. I know they had an issue with them leaking when they were in sub zero temps in the airplanes that were delivering them.

Hey Guys, I have been playing around for a few weeks with my first water cooling setup. I had no clue what I was doing when I ordered all the parts but everything turned out pretty good! I like to do things a bit differently so I went with an aquarium chiller in place of a radiator. These are not for the faint hearted, there is a decent sized fan to keep the compressor and condenser coil cooled. The overall sound level is less than a single GPU's fans at full speed though. Its also bigger than my Bitfenix Prodigy case.. Just! Ok so the basics of my setup are as follows; EK Supremacy EVO Elite cooling an i7 4790K EK FC780 cooling a single Gigabyte 780Ti Windforce OC XSPC D5 Photon 270 reservoir/pump combo TECO TK500 Aquarium chiller You can use a much cheaper chiller than the one I opted for, but I figured a quality one will last longer and handle the "different" usage of trying to cool an overclocked gaming PC! In terms of overclocks I'm pretty happy with the results. My CPU is a poor overclocker and I couldn't get a stable clock above 4400MHz using a Corsair H100i but I managed a stable 4800MHz clock using the aquarium chiller. This took 1.45V core voltage and temperatures were higher than I wanted, 70-80 degrees under sustained full load. But 1.45V with the H100i hit 100 degrees in literally 1 second and crashed the PC! I tried higher than 4800MHz clock but it crashed and I think it was because the maximum multiplier is 48. After that you have to adjust frequency? Not too sure. I have settled on a 4600MHz overclock at 1.35V to keep the temperature lower. On to the GPU, Gigabyte factory overclocked the 780Ti to 1020MHz. I have pushed that to 1160MHz and I see a permanent boost clock of 1315MHz due to running so cool! That's almost 100MHz more than I saw on air while I was regularly reaching 80-85 degrees where the boost clock would drop. I normally run the coolant temps at around 25-30 degrees but can go as low as 10-15 degrees while gaming but there is no benefit with my overclocks. I will get some pictures up as soon as I can, they won't be pretty as it's still in test setup but should give you some idea of what's been done. I do plan on running SLI graphics and I think that will be the limit of my small chiller, I calculate its capacity at roughly 450-500W. Throw some questions at me or call me stupid, whatever you desire. I had very little information on doing this so maybe someone on there could benefit if they ever wanted to try this out. Power consumption is about 100W. The unit uses 220W but only runs for 25 minutes of the hour. More than a normal radiator and fan setup but not enough to be worried about. cheers, Shaun

I have had nothing but trouble with the razer gear I have used. Megalodon headset that on occasion would refuse to connect to my PC and in the end would not connect at all! And an xbox style controller that after only a few months most of the buttons would "stick" and was unusable even after resetting and cleaning. My experience suggests its low quality gear with a fairly high price tag.

Hey Cory, I have built a system very similar to yours. Not my first PC build but my first mini-ITX. Bitfenix Prodigy MSI Z97I Gaming motherboard Corsair AX760i power supply Core i7 4790K Corsair H100i cpu cooler Gigabyte GTX 780Ti Windforce OC Corsair Dominator Platinum 2133MHz Samsung 850 PRO 512Gb Biggest problem I have encountered is heat buildup from the windforce GPU even though my case has the perforated side panel. I have replaced every fan (except GPU) with Noctua fans and it is very quiet now, 5x 120mm fans total. I will get some photos up in a day or two.

Rost Off is available from Wurth. Not sure if its made by them though.

I'm pretty sure it works with XP but not Vista. Or it works with 32bit not 64bit. One or the other as the last time I tried using it with my Vista 64bit it wouldn't run.