T-Rex

4000Nm "failure load" is different from 1350Nm torque rating. 4000Nm is the breaking point of the Torqline, 1350Nm is the safe output for use of the PST. What's the weight difference between the carbon and aluminum ones?

What are peoples thoughts on the Walbro 39/50 in-tank fuel pump? 400lpm but requires a few mods to install (wiring and holder mods). Its the closest thing to the EL5M pump from the Bugatti Veyron and C6 ZR1 which cannot be used without an electronic controller.

My brother is a bit of a genius with hand porting, he has ported dozens of heads, one set was for a 3000hp TFX Hemi drag engine. I asked him to port my WRX heads when I was building an engine so I will put up a before and after pic of the inlet port. From what he told me, most of the Jap cylinder heads are good from the factory and only need a little clean up, unlike the older V8 engines, etc. If you increase the port size too much all you will do is create a flat spot in the low rpm range, and get bugger all improvement up top. Before After

+2 a mate has a PWR on his R33 GTR and his tuner at AVO thinks he will gain 40+kw by changing it out for another brand because it is a restriction in the system. 29psi was only seeing 370kw from twin HKS 2835

The precision press release http://www.precisionturbo.net/news/Press-Release--All-New-Ultra-High-Flow-CEA-Turbine-Wheels-Announced/95 And Real Street Performance have them on their Ebay site http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Precision-6766-H-Billet-CEA-Ball-Bearing-Turbo-T4-Divided-V-Band-Outlet-1-00-A-R-/290612618761?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item43a9dca609#ht_5305wt_939

To an extent that is correct yes. If you go too thick then the airflow going through the back of the intercooler isn't doing anything (not working well as a heat exchanger). A 90mm thick core seems to be the thickest recommended unless your just chasing dyno figures. APS do a 850x240x82 core for WRX and i know of a high powered car that changed his top mount for that model APS and he made 10kw more power with 600rpm more lag. He then chucked it in the bin and got a blitz FMIC and had much better response without a loss in power. Whether it was because its APS or because there was too much volume I'm not sure, but it obviously didn't work.

I think the 600x300x76 will suffice but a 90mm would be better if available. A guy that raced in the WTAC ran 440hp at the wheels in a WRX with a top mount, much smaller than 600x300..

Since most things have already been pointed out, what about the grounding of the engine to chassis, etc. I know the BA Falcon's have an issue where they would run rich and even stall, all caused by the chassis/motor grounding being installed wrong.

Sounds a bit suss, there's not 100kw in a housing. Likely a tune issue.

All that arguing any nobody picked up its a 71hp(53kw) difference not 71kw. Not that is matters, the gains shown are still the same.

Not ever going to happen. Fastest production (barely production) car i know of is the weineck cobra. 0-100 in about 2.9 sec, 0-200 in about 5 sec, 0-300 in about 10 sec. WARNING! Video is LOUD so turn down volume first. I do kinda want one http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nHSt79qjHAw

My 32 GTR was doing this, I put in a different cluster and it still did the same. I put it down to a faulty oil pressure sender unit.

Anyone ever used a phase change cooler? I used one for about a week, until the moisture fried my mobo because i had the heater hooked up incorrectly I was running 4.8ghz with an i7 920, fully loaded on prime 95 temps were less than 10 degrees.

Crikey's! Highest clock i have had was 4.8ghz on an i7 920 and that was with a phase change cooler. My rig now consists of Case: Antec Twelve Hundred case (soon to be replaced by lian li V2120X) Motherboard: Gigabyte X58A UD3 CPU: i7 930 @ 3.3ghz air cooled by Noctua heat sink GPU: Gainward GTX560ti x2 Hard Drive: 120gb OCZ Vertex 2 SSD (for games) Memory: 6gb Corsair 1600mhz Power: Antec 1000w Sound Card: None, Auzentech refused to work on my system, now i use Razer Magalodon headphones. OS: Vista 64 ultimate Monitor: 5yr old Dell 22" 1680x1050 (to be replaced by Samsung 27" 120hz 3d monitor) This setup plays every game i have maxxed out at 60fps except The Witcher 2 with uber sampling which runs at about 40-50fps. The GTX560ti and Radeon 6950 are brilliant in SLI/Crossfire

Didn't hear from Just Jap, and I have another option that I am likely to take unless their pricing is very good.

I will find out hopefully tomorrow what the price difference is, i really do prefer buying from an Australian dealer. But if prices are 15-20% more then its hard to justify when you could be saving yourself over $1000.

GTR_JOEY- I'm going to get the nismo twin plate, and im likely to get an OS 5 speed gearset and get the gearbox overhauled, or overhaul it myself (if it doesn't look too difficult). Im getting prices off of Just Jap and will see what they come up with. I know what it will cost to get the parts from RHD so we will see how close Just Jap come. Rolls- I have experience in replacing gearbox's dangerously, luckily this time we will have a car hoist so it will make the job slightly less painful! cheers

Any coolant that has gone past the pistons in the oil galleries etc will be in the sump. So draining the sump will suffice unless i have missed something? After running the engine at operating temp for a while it will burn off any remaining coolant/vapour too.

Just checked and there are 3 types. 950kg = 471kw/630hp. 1000kg = 493kw/660hp. 1150kg = 544kw/730hp Shame the only one labelled as a Pull clutch is the 950kg version, might have to get a push to pull conversion kit too.

One has a 900kg clamp pressure, the other is 1150. I had a 1350kg twin ATS carbon clutch in my WRX and the pedal pressure wasn't hard at all so I'm thinking/hoping the Nismo clutch will be the same.

Thanks for the reply, I will be ordering some stuff from RHD in the next 2 weeks and was trying to decide which version clutch to get. If the comp spec one isn't too harsh I will get one of those. Im also planning on getting Nismo engine mounts, gearbox mount, and rear diff mount at the same time. They wont cause too much chassis vibration will they? cheers

For those who are using the Nismo twin coppermix, are you using the competition model with higher clamping pressure or are you using the lower pressure version?

In your situation i would definitely go a rebuilt 5 speed, my car will be 99% street use and an extra gear is nice and won't hurt performance as its a street car. Im going to be sticking with the 5 speed, the potential for future hassles just isn't worth it for me.

You raise valid points, I have noticed the GTR's have very poor response under 3,000rpm compared to a 2.0L WRX, I don't see why that is though? I plan on rebuilding my motor with a 2.8L stroker kit in future, the extra cubes along with other mods should help with torque.

Apparently the 4.1 diff is fine, first gear is just very fast. I don't understand why people break the getrag if it has the same gears as the Supra which is known to handle 800hp with slicks on a drag track (no wheelspin). Im willing to do something different and it could transfer the car into a better machine. My brother has just put a 6 speed in his 5 speed WRX and it feels 200% better because of the close ratio gears. Much easier to drive on the street and feels heaps livelier. Another option for me to think about i guess, lucky i don't rely on the GTR every day