T-Rex

Hi guys, this has been on my mind for some time so i thought i might as well see if i can find out. About 2-3 weeks BEFORE the first ADM R35 was delivered i saw a silver R35 driving near Bendigo on the Marong road. Now i thought to myself i must have been seeing things as they weren't released yet! But a few hours later i spotted it in my local town (Swan Hill)!! So my question is, were there any R35's available (JDM models etc) before the ADM Model was released?

Ok i just googled about the Shannons track day cover and it seems people don't have much luck getting cover! But they definitely advertise that they cover you on the track. Driver training days are covered, but anything ran by CAMS or similar body is NOT covered. There was one guy who got cover in a BMW M3 no problems at all, but it costs extra to take out the insurance, its not included in the yearly premium..

It wasn't full locking up but it did leave rubber on the road! I will have to check if the ABS has been disconnected, people often do it with WRX's when on the track to improve braking. pretty sure it hasn't been disconnected though. Shannons cover you on the track. Its in one of their booklets they send out with your statements. I cant find it at the moment but it basically says your covered for $20,000 if your on a race track. Im sure you cant insure your track only car with them, but for occasional usage your covered. There was a guy who was working for Shannons several years ago and was a member of these forums. Matthew Deluca i think was his name. Does anyone know if he still uses the forums or works for Shannons? Because he'd be sure to know

You could try some spray on brake cleaner first as the cheapest option. Otherwise it might be a pad or rotor issue. Hard to say without actually looking at them.

Well i searched the forums looking for a good brake thread and found one! I have always wanted a 6 pot brake system (endless or AP). But this evening i went to a quiet road and tested the brakes on my R32 GTR (the v-spec brembos). I quickly came to the conclusion i DO NOT need to upgrade them! I cant see myself hitting the track with my car, its too expensive and risky for me even though im covered for $20,000 on the track.. Basically i have Kumho KU31 265/35/18 all round and at 120km/h i can lock up the brakes.. I never thought it would be possible at that speed and with tyres that fat! So its safe to say you never need better brakes than the Brembo's for purely street use. PS. I had 2 WRX's before the GTR and the braking is much better in the GTR!

From what i have read, for a street/track car spring rates closer to 5kg front and 4kg rear is more like it. The stiff rates can cause brakes locking up when braking over bumps, and can cause the car to "skip" over the bumps and not actually get traction. If its mainly a track car you could probably got stiffer than 5/4 but I'm not a pro on that. My R32 street car has the crappy D2 coilovers with about 12kg/12kg rates and they are horrible on bumps!

I got one for my WRX through Nengun. The prices have gone up on them since i bought mine, it was $2000, now its $2800...

If only a little bit of fluid comes out when you depress the clutch i'd say there is still air in the system. Generally you should have a good squirt of fluid (say 50-100mm at least) when you depress the clutch.. Having only owned a skyline for 1 month or so i cant help with any special ways to do it, but all systems are similar. Anywhere air can be trapped, it will be trapped.

I don't think he went ahead with rods, i have no paperwork to say it ever had after market rods installed. Im going to buy a full silicone hose set and get them all replaced. One day a rebuild will come, but i will be aiming for maximum reliability not maximum power

Wow nice build! I would never have the dedication to go this far, mainly because i love driving. If i owned a Veyron i would still drive it rally style on dirt roads, just the way i am This thread is a very good read for fellow R32 GTR owners as you get an insight into how everything fits together! There was a chap in the US or UK that had his EVO VI (i think) fully restored by a company that specialises in it.. Cost him $60,000 from memory but it was sooooo bloody nice! The underbody was stripped bare and then painted without any sound deadening. It made it look so much better! Other than that car, yours has made my jaw drop the most

Haha i now own this car and guess what?? A coolant line at the back of the engine has burst again! If i wasn't buying a house i would get the head taken off, do the oiling mods, get EVERY hose replaced so its a little more safe.. Anyone with an R32 should be weary that its about time that the hoses will start to fail, so have a spare $1000 to replace them

I ended up buying the brand new headlight switch, hopefully it lasts a while before it fails. I was very surprised with how easy it all was to take apart.. Within 10 minutes i had everything pulled off including the instrument cluster (i wanted to see what the nismo gauge set actually replaces)

I havn't tried buying from here, i need it ASAP as i use my car mostly after 5pm and later, and sooner or later the cops will get me and try to ping me for anything they can think of!!! I dont understand how they can wear out regularly. From what i have seen, its generally just normal wear and tear that kills them, not the high resistance that supposedly melts them.. But i will know for sure when i open mine up and see what the issue is..

Hi guys, sorry for starting another thread on this, but i need quick replies as im going to be paying for this tomorrow so if the price aint right, i want to know As topic suggests, i was quoted $330 odd dollars for an new R32 GTR headlight switch, it seems rather pricey for something that is known to fail anyway! Is the price right? At first they got in the indicator stalk with the high/low beam attached (obviously the wrong bit) and it was "only" $130... So $300+ sounds wrong in comparison..?

This place has a few photos up and a little info, not much, but you get the idea. It would be my choice of pump.. http://www.tweakit.net/shop/product_info.p...roducts_id=7204

I didn't read through all 4 pages, but local stuff is generally good, think of Kelford in NZ, known world wide for their cams because they are great, and reasonably priced too!

Well my R32 GTR doesn't budge over 4 no matter how im driving, i think the sensor or gauge is stuffed!

Havn't had my R32 GTR very long but i would say its just as easy to put up with if not easier than my old 2004 WRX.. Subaru's have a lot of slack in the AWD system which makes stop/start driving a pain! The GTR has a very smooth transmission/driveline compared! Making 330rwkw and it used half a tank to drive 350km on a highway.. so i'd say not too shabby!

Aaron from Import Monster, or Troy from Prospeed Racing should be able to give you an idea on prices..

Very jealous!

You obviously have the boost controller now, but the Gizzmo ones are good and cheap @ $249! Make sure you let the car idle before turning it off now that you have a non water cooled turbo.. Otherwise you will burn the oil that sits in the turbo, and maybe prematurely destroy the turbo too.

Thanks guys, i found the tutorial on the light switch and it seems logical that it is the cause! I will have to give it a shot once i get a new switch. Can you buy GTR parts through Nissan dealers?

Hi, My 94 R32 GTR is having slight issues with the headlights.. Basically what is happening is if i turn the headlights on, only the drivers side comes on, this happens whether the engine is running or not.. Now if i start the engine with the headlights OFF, then switch the headlights on, again only the drivers side will turn on. BUT if i turn the ignition off, the passenger headlights turn ON!!! At first i thought i had a loose connection, so i hard wired the left headlight in so as to bypass the suspected dodgy connection. Well that was a waste of time! There is a fuse for the LEFT headlights, and a fuse for the RIGHT headlights. Both are fine. There is also a contactor marked headlighs, which is in my opinion the most likely culprit.. I have followed the loom right back to the fuse box and can't see any problems, so im leaning heavily towards the contactor in the engine bay fuse box. I posted up here just to see if anyone else has had any problems remotely similar to this?? cheers, Shaun

The power point your computer is plugged into is made in china.. Yes both HPM and Clipsal! I think that if a part is proven to be good, then it doesn't matter if its made in China or Korea.

Lower it is then Definitely dont want it failing just yet, it can wait until after i buy a house! I like the idea of the RB30 bottom ends, but i don't like the idea of tossers saying i have a VL engine in my skyline! I think i will stick to the RB26. Something like 250kw at 4500rpm or so is pretty good for a street car!