sedanlover

hi there, I've come to a final decision about my 4 door R33 and I'm selling my pride and joy. The time has come to part with this lovely ride and finally finish my project car. details are as follows: 1993 ECR33 skyline 124,000kms 'M' spec 4 door ABS sunroof climate control RB25DET manual Genuine HKS pod filter TEIN "HR" coil overs (height adjustable) cat back Tanabe exhaust GTR wheels NISMO front strut brace Genuine skyline floor mats 'A' grade GTR copy front bar side skirts and rear bar (veilside?) Panasonic MP3 player phillips upgrade headlight bulbs EXTRAS: spares include, standard airbox with K'n'N filter standard shocks and springs rear lovell springs (taken out of coil overs when bought) chinese copy HYBRID front mount cooler (no piping) standard handbrake and gear boots 4 x 300ZX rims the car has been treated with respect from the moment i bought it. it is too nice to take drifting as i don't want to destroy it. the vehicle is silver in colour and immaculate condition throughout. i have owned this car for about 14 months, this is a very regretful sale, but i need to make way for my up and coming project drift car so i can get out on the track. i have some pictures here, but THE VEHICLE WILL NOT BE SOLD WITH THESE WHEELS! i have currently got some GTR32 wheels on it and can supply a set of 300ZX rims as well. $16,500 FIRM CHEERS ANDY PHONE: 0407 128 195 EMAIL: [email protected]

hey hey...look what daddy found. yee haa! ha ha, the last pic is an A31 ceffy with an S14 front end

still for sale? looks nice.

that is pure horn! pm sent

hey sorry for the late reply. i haven't included a top plate in my plans, but i'd say it would help and wouldn't be that hard to do. as for the top feed pipe... i just figured that nissan had this here for a reason, and personally the air that comes from underneath the front bar wouldn't be enough. i havent tried the setup with out it, but thats just me. just remember that some sort of foam insulation on either side of the metal sheet will also cut temps down. i haven't fitted any yet, but i need to, because after a spirited drive around town, it can still get hot inside the "box".

hi all, just thought i'd post up some helpful info for those interested in making your own heatsheild for your pod filter. this exercise was conducted on my 1993 ECR33 turbo skyline. i'm sure the same ideas/plans could be adapted to any make or model, but this write up is model specific to ECR33 RB25DET. ...HEATSHEILD INSTALLATION... materials needed: >cardboard >scissors >stanley knife >tin snips >pliers >gloves >bolts from your standard airbox >marker pen >hole punch -OR- cordless drill and various drill bits >1-2mm thick alluminium sheeting, preferably about 650x650 square sheet. (cost me $12) >rubber/plastic edge lining, to cover the sharp edges of the sheet. (costs $2.55 metre) >race tape we all know its bad for engine performance to have hot air being fed into the exposed pod filter. so why not make a heat sheild!!! its easy, AND its cheap. STEP 1. *buying all the neccessary bits and pieces for your project. i'm guessing most houses will have garages with various tools in them...but if not, i'll guess you'll have to buy the tools for the job. i happened to score my sheet of alluminium from a screen door manufacturer. i chose alluminium because its plyable like cardboard...easy to bend and shape. most metal places "should" have plenty of offcuts of sheets lying around, but if not, they will be able to point you in the right direction. now the rubber/plastic edge lining was purchased from a P and M PLASTICS and RUBBER store. i'm pretty sure any other plastics/rubber supplies shops will stock products similar. STEP 2. * making up a few templates out of cardboard is the first thing needed. it will save you alot of trouble later...its like doing a rough copy first. it might take a few times to get it close to perfect, but it will make life easier when it comes time to cut the sheet of alluminium. using the scissors and stanley knife, cut the cardboard into the shape you need...sometimes you will need masking tape to "go back" and re-evalute the templates. thus sticking on old cut off bits and using your eye to measure up the correct distances needed. STEP 3. *stencil the cardboard template onto the sheet of alluminium and make sure to note where the bends are in the cardboard and also transfer these onto the sheet. simply mark reference points onto the sheet, (top and bottom of stencil), then using a straight edge join the marks up. once the stencil has been cut out, use a piece of wood, with a straight edge on it, and slowly bend the alluminium to the curve needed. !!CAUTION!! *BEWARE OF THE SHARP EDGES ON THE SHEET. WEAR GLOVES TO PROTECT YOUR HANDS WHEN CUTTING THE SHEET* STEP 4. * remember to keep trial fitting the heatsheild to make sure your happy with the end result. now its time to drill the holes for the mounting tabs. i used a hole punch on mine...because i'm lazy and couldn't be bothered hooking up the drill. if you're like me... make sure the hole punch is up to the task. mine was broken at the end of the this particular exercise and i ended up using the drill for one hole. i simply used some of the offcuts from the sheet to make up my tabs. its very easy to bend and drill. i also used the existing holes from the standard airbox as my mounting points. its not a show piece, but it works. STEP 5. * time to put the edge lining on. this is fun! the product i used has a special piece of alloy in the strip and assists on holding it in place. it takes a bit of force to push it onto the corners and bends in the cut out, but the end result is very satisfying. REMEMBER TO USE THE PLIERS TO FLATTEN OUT ALL THE "CUT" EDGES TO ASSIST IN FITMENT OF RUBBER. this is where the gloves come in handy. i have a pair of snap-on mechanics gloves, and they work well! STEP 6. * i had to cut out a small "vee" section to allow for the loom for the AFM plug to feed through. now this section was to small to use the rubber edging, so i used race tape to cover the sharp edges. again, its not pretty, but it works. i also 'race taped' the sharp corners of the sheild to protect unassuming hands from cuts. STEP 7. *i have included the standard air intake tube in my application for better breathing...and its a good rule to go by when making the heatsheild as you already know it fits under the bonnet when it is closed. so by cutting out the neccessary room in the sheet, you too can have the snorkel involved in your cold air intake. now mine isn't quite up to scratch looks-wise, but i intend to slap on some sticky foil (insulator type heat resisting foil) on both side of the heat sheild to really keep the pod cool! i also wanna involve some foam to cover up some gaps down near the stock cooler piping. thats basically it! she fits under the bonnet nicely, and quite frankly i'm happy with my work. i hope this help a few people out there in skyline land. andy

ok so i'm well on my way to completing my very own heat sheild i might even be nice and share with you all how i did it. (i took pics ) stay tuned for a new topic... coming to a DIY forum near you!!!

ok so i've got all the materials i need. (except the heat insulation stuff). i am also trial fitting cardboard templates...but i fear that these cardboard "rough copies" are gonna make the finished product look shit. Eug, any tips on how exactly to make it look half decent. also, what car is yours? i have a turbo R33. i'm sure with yours being NA, whatever it is, you'll have less piping to worry about. if you could get the pics up, that would help! ooh...if you still have the cardboard templates too, put them up! cheers andy

done and done. thanks guys.

its not that f**kin low...geez 1. i don't have those wheels on my car. (they were temporarily borrowed off a mate) 2. i'm running 300zx wheels with 50 profile tyres. 3. its not on bump stops. 4. the lowest part is the middle resonator on the exhaust =70mm off the deck. thats the only trouble i have. front bar is slowly wearing away...only if i drive hard on a mountain run or something. honestly its not that low. I'M NOT A POSER! it rides good. nice firm and responsive. i guess i can live with what i've got until i wanna get serious.

so the most "southern" meeting point is springwood crazy clarks for us peeps on the goldy?

mmmm...still there is confunsion surrounding this topic. we need a concrete answer. i just thought seeing how chris wilson from the UK had done it himself he should have all the answers, but...i think there needs to be pics involved or a solid write up done. andy

all imput/replies are welcome... i'm going to bed.

here's a pic. the gap between the top of the tyre and the guard is too much. i want it level, front and rear. i know its more body styling, but you can see that the front is way lower than the rear. sitting like a 1tonner

ok so i purchased a set of second hand tein HR's for my R33 sedan...only to find out that the collars were ceased on the threads, and (get this) the previous owner had fitted lovell springs too the rear (for a softer ride), but really didn't change any characteristics of the comfort level. so after buying some brand new tein springs from my local fulcrum stockist, i got a mate to fit the new springs in. (this is after i had a red hot go at f**king them). i thought it'd be easy as to do, with the right tools, but it turned out that the previous owner had not only put very wrong springs in, he had also used standard top shock mounts to hold the spring in (which was far from sitting right). so custom top mounts were made up (for a small fee) and we ditched some of the top rubbers in order for a more responsive ride. once all was done i was very happy with the end result. so i borrowed some "c spanners" from a mate and went about lowering my car. i started at the rear...and spent all this time/effort winding the collars the worng way. to in-effect i had unknowingly raised my car. i consulted a friend...and he pointed me in the right direction. i then went about "LOWERING" my car, starting with the rears. all good! when it came to the fronts, i realised, after much persperation, that the collars were ceased on the threads...AGAIN! so off i go back to my friend with the tools/know-how. he rectified the problem well and good and gave me some sound advice. so i have recently lowered my car since that time and played around until i had the right/practical height. now the problem i have encounter is the rear springs (new tein product) are too long, thus meaning at the lowest setting on the thread, the car is still way high. fronts are fine. has anyone encounter the same/similar problem (spring wise)??? i was thinking about getting the spring compressed. like heating it in a vice and shortening it. professionally done of course. any comments