copycutter

Hi coaster, do you have the intermittent wiper amplifier? It's the brown box behind the drivers side strut tower.

Hey Ash, Do you have the wiper amplifier/timer? It's a brown box bolted down on the drivers side behind the strut tower. Controls intermittent wipers.

Gotcha, thanks for the info

Holy crap that r33 gtr is incredible. Details!!!

Hot damn, those are nearly $500 on justjap I would've thought the GTR BMC would have more pressure than a GTST one being that its an uprated part on an uprated system?

With the Brembo kit, is that designed to fit a gtst? Will it fit an R33? Is it just a front pair or set of 4? Cheers,

That is a clean 33 to be stickerbombed like that. Very nice. Usually stickered up ones are cops.

Did you ever find out what this was? Mine has just started doing it

Also Jez, I have one of Tao's bored-out G3 rear flange adaptor plates to put on when I get my new dump pipe and change fuel to e85. Just looking at the base design's lip half obscuring the outlet of the wg compared to the bored out one you can imagine the new one would be much better with a direct flow path into the dump pipe.

Hahaha can't blame you there.

Want your car badly hodouken. It's awesome. I love the understated look and RPF1's! Should've kept saving for a GTR...

Just out of interest, is it necessary to remove the guard/wheel arch liners out if you are running decent size wheel & tyre or lowering a bit? My car isn't what you would call low at all, but because my suspension isnt race spec coilovers (they're bilstein/whitelines) and they aren't rock hard, I get scuffing when I go over a hard bump or turn real hard up front. Or do most just sort it out with camber?

I think some even bake their painted surface in the oven if possible or put it on the car and run the engine to bake it in. Longer bakes or higher temps pronounce the wrinkle effect. I think if you google wrinkle rocker cover there is a honda forum where a ton of guys are experimenting with different baking methods and temps to get different results.

Lol spew Damn these people & lack of mechanical sympathy

At least the wrecker long motor isn't too expensive compared to the RBs. Wonder what sort of operating conditions made it go in the end? All the stories you hear about the jays being unbelievably abused and still living happy lives you must think this think must have gone through hell or had virtually no maintenance...

Only problem is my daily driving would be classified as something like super-duper-ultra urban. I work like 5 mins from home, so my commute is all before the car is properly warm. Other driving is a bit better but mostly my usage is not a great amount of time at operating temp unless it's a leisure drive. Doesn't cold engine driving like that give the most amount of chance for the fuel to wash past the bores into the sump etc and destroy the oil?

Ok, good to know. Thanks artz. Might give the penrite a crack as they seem to be cheaper overall than castrol.

I'm about to change fuel pumps and switch to e85 soon too. Would anyone know if the Castrol Edge is any good as a daily driver e85 oil as opposed to Simon's track car? I'd be looking to change it every 5000 or so to avoid the oil turning to crap. I'm not too hard on the car, just squirts here and there maybe a visit to the strip some stage.

Says your PM is full. Can you please post or PM me pics of the Twin Power module? Does the kit just have everything it needs to just plug in and go?

Spoke to a mechanic and he lent me a noid light for the injector plugs. Tested that on the suspect front two injector plugs, they are getting signal fine. He also recommended I get new plugs and sit the coil up on top of the engine with a new plug in it, to see if it sparks while cranking it over. I did this with all 6 and all of them were arcing their spark onto the rocker cover which the coil was resting on top of on it's side. I would think that the spark is getting all the way there means the coils wiring is fine (all getting spark happening), but possibly the spark is arcing out the side of the coil packs? I've inspected them and couldn't see any cracks, but would it be common for two coils to give up at the same time?

Do you know where I could get one? Does it come with fittings for the coil & injector plugs?

Put a test light into each coil pack plug with engine running and each plugs left pin (looking at the plug) lit up the test light the middle and right pins did nothing but I don't know if the test light could blink fast enough to show the coil signal. This tells me each coil pack has power equally though.

Update: I think it is a spark related issue, & I think the car is running on 4 which is why it seems so bad when I have done my test drive around the block. If it was running on 5 it would still be sorta driveable but on 4 cyls its very rough and jerky. This morning I tried doing some more diagnosing with a friend. We first started it up to test coils again. After thinking a bit more, I don't think it's the CAS because like you say BWGTR it starts first time every time. Once it was running we tried revving between 2500-3000 while removing the coilpack plugs one by one to and tell if there was a noticeable difference unplugging one & putting it back to nail it down to one cylinder. Previously I had done this while idling and I couldn't notice any real difference between any as the idle was rough anyway, and my friend explained that to be noticeable you need to raise the revs. What we noticed was that there was no change when unplugging and plugging in 1st and 2nd cylinder coil packs, but noticeable stumble when removing the rest (cyls 3-6) and improvement when plugging them back in. I then swapped coil 1 with 5 and tested again. Now the apparently bad coil #1 was working in coil #5's spot, appeared to be firing (stumble when unplugged etc) which seemed to indicate it isn't the coils, but rather cyl #1 and #2 specific. We thought maybe the #1 and #2 injectors weren't working properly since the front two might have been doused with water when I dropped the cooling system bleed screw a week ago, but out the back there's a ton of fuel soot, and when removing spark plugs 1, 2, 5 and 6 to compare it seemed that 5 and 6 plugs were real sooty with carbon but 1 and 2 seemed like they had been "washed" with fuel and looked cleaner, which we think means the injectors are firing fuel in there but not being burned (hence the crap out the back on the driveway). My friend then had to go, but suggested I use a test light with paperclip in the coil plug on the coil wiring for the front two and back two to see if they all have power & signal going through them equally. If they don't then I guess it's wiring loom for front two coils, if not then I dunno because we swapped coil #1 and #5, and #1 started working when in #5's spot. Anyone got any ideas? Thanks to everyone for the replies and help so far. This problem sucks.

I will try and look into how to test those things you mentioned, as I'm incredibly mechanically minded to be honest, and beyond checking the coils and plugs I'm kind of out of my depth. Where is the igniter on a series 2? I know it's the box at the back of the coil cover on a series 1.

That may make more sense. It's showing black dot for IGN, ECS, F/P and NTR when I first start it. Then if I put in the clutch and put it in gear the NTR one goes off. Could this be my CAS is stuffed? It runs badly enough just around my block in 2nd that I wouldn't think I can get it to a tuners to look at easily enough, and the towing cost would be obscene. It just bucks and jerks like crazy while very slowly accelerating 1st up to 3k, then into 2nd and cruising at about 30km/h (that was the round the block test I did).