copycutter

Daleo, can I ask if these whiteline swaybars have much effect on the way the car rides over normal bumps and undulations when driving straight? Or does a mod like this only really get noticed when cornering hard? What I mean is, would stiffer swaybars make a car more rough riding when just pootling around town or would you only really notice when fanging the car in the mountains?

I can only speak from my own experience with the plazmaman intake manifolds. I had a 180sx with an rb25 and one of these intake plenums on it a few years back. I put this manifold on when I got the engine put in the car so I had it for a while with a stock turbo, then with stock turbo + PFC, then also with a bigger turbo + microtech. I always found it to come on boost very quick compared to a few of my friends cars, especially compared to the behavior of other rb25's with similar mods. IIRC with the stock 21U turbo I remember seeing that I could get it up to 14psi by just under 2000rpm which I thought was a laugh. I think we measured a few other friend's r33s at the time and his was in the 2's which is what my current skyline is like. Now I have a relatively stock r33 myself like my friend used to in the day, and my opinion on it is I couldn't justify the cost of it against the whole car's worth. Cons wise; it always made the intake plenum ancillaries (IAC, AAC etc) difficult to get to except TB, and made the oil filter a real pain to get at, which I always thought offset the spark plug benefit since you do the former at least as regularly as the latter. Plus, the thing always needed metal polishing to keep halfway respectable. As for fuel system I had stock rail which was perfectly fine, but I did have Sard FPR & 550cc injectors. I was never forced to change the FPR, I just got it at the time with the injectors, but no workshop physically forced me to get it, so couldn't say if you can get away with stock FPR. So these days I just cbf with it. But I always thought it was good at the time, got plenty of compliments on it when I had it, and never thought it was hindering performance. If anything I thought it made the response much more lively. Hope that helps.

I don't wanna sound like a queer or nothin', but limiter bashing is some hot sh1t!

Yeah but he's right. There's the Defi link BF gauges and the Defi Link II controller (which I have). Then there's the Defi Advance BF gauges and the Defi Advance Control Unit (which I bought my new gauge for). Now I'm gonna have to sell my old Link II controller and boost gauge. Rookie mistake.

The 9.5 +20's stick out a bit far at the front though. Does the rim width or offset tuck the wheel back into the guard?

I have a staggered pair of CR Kai's at the moment. They are 18 x 9.5 both. One pair is +20 and the other is +38. The problem is the lesser offset which should be for the front doesn't clear the brake calipers, so the car has to wear them back to front, which looks retarded. This does not please me, but I can't exactly order another two CR Kai's if I have no idea what will fit. Would a 8.5 +20 fit an r33 gts-t? By fit I mean sit flush in the guard or just inside, and still clear the caliper?

day = ruined

Hey all, just bought a brand new Defi BD Oil Temp gauge to go in my dual gauge pillar mount alongside my existing BF Boost gauge. I went to daisy chain the oil temp to the boost gauge so that I could have both set both gauges fully done inside the car at least, as the sensor & sandwich plate are getting installed next week. In looking at the back of my boost gauge and the new oil temp gauge I notice the connectors are different. So the little daisy connector that came with the oil temp gauge doesn't fit in the back of my boost gauge. To try and get around this, since they're all 4 pins anyway, I removed the different white plastic connector on my old gauge and connected the daisy wire to the pins directly, but when I turn the accessories on, the oil temp gauge does nothing, and the boost gauge goes through its "error" sequence. Are there different series of BF gauge? If so, can my older one work with this new gauge somehow?

But the sharp rise is what makes a fun street car and makes passengers grab the jesus handle.

Beserk probably an overkill phrase. I haven't witnessed it, I just figured it'd be like when you press a vacuum up flat against the ground and it goes nuts.

If the intake pipe sucked shut at full gas would the car go noticeably berserk because it's the equivalent of breathing through a straw instead of it's mouth? I don't see how a metal intake pipe would make more power than a working rubber intake if they're the same sizes roughly.

That Juran sandwich plate, it's for rb25det right? Are those two things in it sensors for gauges? Did you ever have any issues with leaks from it or the sensors?

What front bar turbodragon?!? It looks awesome. Normally the nismo lip on the stock s2 front bar sticks out and is obviously an add-on, so it can't be that.

My friend's got a HKS JASMA system on his r34 and I have some unknown thingo with a JASMA plate on my r33 and his is deathly quiet compared to mine, no idea why. They don't all seem to be the same, isn't the JASMA approval just an upper limit agreement for db's @ low revs?

That's a shame, I was thinking of getting one to be stealthy Does the HKS one have these reducers and silencers?

Wasn't there an old thread where a guy dissected a Regu 06&R and found some crazy restricter inside that explained the quietness?

How is anyone getting that the yellow/stock turbo traces are reaching full boost at 4000? They only show power and torque, not boost. The thing could be on full boost at lower revs but the engine isn't making a decent climb in power or torque until 4k.

I can't see how that is wheelspinning for a 9.5 unless he's leaving his foot flat on the accelerator when he changes gears :S

Agreed, can't see why you'd want to mess with a thing that is very good as is. That .7x rear housing is what gives it that great split between response and top end that everyone raves about. And the WG actuators from HKS work really well too.

It turned out to be the sill underneath the car, where you jack it up. It was all crushed flat instead of a raised straight thing. The panel beater straightened it with big vice grips (he said they normally should be much firmer than that) and then mig welded it all in correct position and the noise seems to be gone. Can't say exactly how much this part of the fix equated to since I was having the bonnet and front bumper resprayed and roof lining re-fitted at the rear but the total was around $1250. Much happier now.

What brand was it before?

That should be fine. If anything the G3 will be restricted by my cooling pro turnflow as the core is smaller.

My god. I thought this listing was a joke at first too. I saw "sells to USA". Jay Leno might end up with this one.

Can I also resolve a problem similar to this from my hand controller? My car has the stock bov but seems to drop to 400-500rpm when I hit the clutch and then bounce back to normal idle. It also hunts and stalls sometimes, it seems worse when the car is cold or not quite warm. If its possible, can someone please explain how to do it from fc hand controller? It's fine every other part of the tune but this problem makes the car a pig to drive.