copycutter

Stao is in the process of sending it now. @hanaldo I agree. A laggier car can still be usable for certain driving styles, this is why I don't think using motor only for driving around town is the worst thing. Do you know how big of a difference to expect from setting up your VCT?

Spot on Rolls that's part of why I went the G3 so that 280kw can be reached if it doesn't quite make the 300 planned kW. I'm OK with trading some daily driving lag and transient response for more chance of reaching the power goal. Although I've had an rb25 with a 500hp turbo before and didn't think it was too bad so I'll be interested to see how it goes.

Going in on 9th for the fix. I'll let you now what the cost is when I pick it up.

Does yours bottom out anywhere at the front when you hit a harsh bump at that ride height? I hit one this morning and heard it scuff inside the arch somewhere. I thought I had solved that particular problem with the increased front height. This means that buying whiteline swaybars might help side to side weight transfer scraping but still means I'll scuff over real harsh bumps. This means there's no way I would be able to really drive the car hard with the setup as is. So is the answer more stroke again is needed? Are these springs so much softer than a japanese coilover spring like HKS/Cusco etc that they need to be 355-360mm off the deck up front? That is actually getting pretty close to stock height if stock is around 370's. I appreciate this combo is more meant for ride quality, and this is why I got them. They aren't bone breakingly stiff like super low coilovers which is great, but I thought they were closer to a happy medium between soft/high stock ones and low/hard jap coilovers than this. Does the +20 9.5 rim offset that is making the rim and tyre stick out past the guard diminish my clearance over other users of the Bilstein/Whiteline? Would that be closest point of contact between car and wheel as opposed to a stock GTR wheel for example which would sit more inside the guard?

CR kai 18 x 9.5 +20 front and +38 rear with 245/35 tyres Front obviously sticks out but the 38's wouldn't clear the front calipers, so what are you going to do?

To answer the stock ride heights thing; that was perhaps a bit of exaggeration on my part. What I meant was I didn't think it was extremely low to begin with for after market. The car did have stock suspension when I got it. I'm interested to know what heights others with this gear are running.

Ok just measured and there's 350mm at front currently with 40mm between Tyre and guard. I have to line up centre of rim with the measuring tape with one eye shut as the wheel and guard aren't flat. Rear appears to be 340mm with the same eye shut scientific method.

Hi guys, I managed to find a set of the much loved Bilstein/Whiteline spring and shock combo and had them fitted to my r33. I had the ride height set not extremely low, but I noticed that my front wheels were hitting my guard liners on even medium bumps and sounded terrible. I took it back to the suspension shop that fitted them and asked for the front to be raised and now it's mostly all good. I can still get the front wheels to scrape when I corner hard at speed (big weight transfer) and so I'm still not completely satisfied. Initially the distance from middle of rim to guard straight up was 335mm I think. After the raise they are now like 355mm, even though I asked them to go up just one 10mm "notch" on the shock. And now the car has this stupid "leant back" look to it becuase the suspension shop said the whole unit had to be removed to change the height, so if I had all four done along with the cost of buying them first time around, fitting and doing balance and align would mean they cost more than top dollar new tein super streets. I was at another suspension shop and they noticed this scrape during weight transfer and said something about changing where the bump stops activate on the shocks should fix it. Bottom line is I do not know enough to know how to solve this problem. All I know is that there must be plenty of people running this suspension set up happily without needing to go stock ride height surely? Anyone know what I should do?

Dang and I thought my r33 was fairly tidy. It's bloody shameful compared to some of these beautiful machines.

Thanks for that, might give that a try on mine. Lucky you've got the whole garage to work in and take up space - GL with it!

Awesome car man, it's going to be great when it's done. But how did being a mechanic all those years ago teach you how to build something specific like a worked stroker rb26? Also, how did you get this effect? Did you have to bake the paint or did you just hit it with a wrinkle paint straight from the can?

I was going to join Sarge in the SS2 crew but the castings aren't available til February, and I'm too antsy in the pantsy with Xmas spending spirit so I'm in the G3 brigade instead. I'll throw some results up when it's all together

Awesome photo diary dopey, I wish I had been to some of the place you've seen! Some outstanding photos there. Do you speak Japanese? How did you know all the best places to visit etc? Was the GTR expensive to rent?

Thanks for PM EDJ001 - not certain it is the check strap yet but will let you know I've had a 3rd and 4th opinion on the dreaded creak, and apprarently my car has been in a side on accident at some point (like finding out your car has cancer) and the creak seems to be from the door sill in their opinion. The fix is apparently rip that side of the car apart and start welding things to stop what is a "metal on metal" noise. I'm going to get some preliminary prices on doing that and see what the cost is.

So has anyone definitively worked out for RB engines what the consensus for the GTX 3071/3076 is? From the results I've seen in links on this thread to other forums, some seem to think the GTX has less response because it's one comp size up compared to its GT counterpart but better flow at big boost, judging by the compressor maps. But there was also some results that seem to show that when back to back comparison was done on the dyno, it seemed the same but with better response than the equivalent GT series. Does anyone know which it is when we're talking 20th century RB engines and not ridiculous boost levels (<25psi)?

Hi Mick, One of the body shops I went to said this may be the case, that the bolts that hold the door hinge to the car may be loose/snapped. However both body shops could not quote me on fixing and were both super unsure about any sort of cost, and eventually said "I'd try to find the noise myself" which I have done and clearly lack the expertise to find it.

What boost and other mods does it have to get 280? I thought GCG ones were normally for up to 230-240?

You know what the responsiveness difference is between your turbos and say the SS1PU or whichever is next down in the "SS" range? It sounds like yours has similar come on to the G3 which flows more. I thought all the SS ones favoured punch over top end hit.

Hey Sarge, I had a look at your on road video for SS2 spool up in 2nd from back near page 100. It looks pretty good, and from Stao's dyno chart on it looks like full boost around 3700 for a higher gear. What do you find that one like to live with? Have you wished it was more responsive or more "top endy"at all? How has it been with this newest actuator you've been running?

The guy at the 2nd suspension shop sprayed spray grease on the door hinge itself with no effect and it doesn't go away with rain. If anything you notice it more because the windows are up and its quieter. I'll get my house mate to work the door while I try and pinpoint it but I think the play in the door might be part of the reason why. Do you know how to tighten it onto the car?

Well I don't have any particular need to be able to adjust it up and down other than: 1. A wastegate that does the boost level you want to tune it at renders your expensive EBC useless 2. If the EBC is controlling it and it overboost past your warning, you can have it jump down to wastegate pressure which is super noticeable "warning feature" of something being wrong with boost levels 3. It's nice to have the ability to turn down a few pound for safety if it's a track day, super hot, super wet, showing off to unsuspecting passengers etc Happy to hear reasons why all the above are BS though.

I've had this creak for 6 months since I bought the car and it's really beginning to sh!t me now. I've gone this whole time thinking it's suspension related. Only this week I've discovered after consulting with two suspension workshops that this is not the case despite replacing bushes, re-greasing others etc. Anyway... When the front right suspension articulates driving up curbs etc, and also when starting and stopping at carpark speeds the front right of the car makes a pronounced creeeeaakkk sound. Only just this week I found we can replicate the sound without the car moving by lifting the drivers door up and down at the end of it while it's open, but can't exactly tell where the sound is coming from. I'd say the driver door may have a little more play than the passenger door, but I'm surprised that if it's door related that driving up a curb would make it sound like that. Is it normal for a door to move at all while the car is being driven about if the door is what's generating the noise? I've tried searching on a write up on how to remove a door from an r33 but no luck other than removing door trim. Has anyone had experience with this kind of problem or removing a door and how to go about troubleshooting this kind of problem? If not, am I best to speak to a panel beater, assuming they pull cars apart all the time?

Right, ok. That makes sense. I hadn't ever fiddled with gain too much on my older turbo setups with my 180sx, and with the skyline now all I would get is spikes which aren't worth it on a stock turbo. Am I right in saying the most up to date model of SS2 is hitting boost somewhere in the 3000-3500 range?

Do you have to run 19 minimum to get good control or do you just prefer to have no boost controller?

Ok well even though I thought 20 was asking a lot, what sort of heat issues are you referring to rolls? Do you mean charge inlet temps via IC setup or underbonnet temps? Sarge, this is pretty much along the lines of what I'm looking for. How would I order one of these goldilocks actuators with this turbo (IE not too hard not too soft ) if I was to describe it to Stao. As I said I intend to run up to 18/19/20 or thereabouts, however I don't like the idea of that being the minimum too. I'd prefer a 14 psi that can be lifted to the peak output setting with the EBC. As for the gain setup, I thought gain settings were only to assist in the delivery and speed of bringing boost on, not a facility to stop boost bleeding off at high rpm?? Do you have a dyno chart for your current setup by any chance if you don't mind sharing?